There is a Politics forum for this. Take your derp somewhere else.

 

my buddy had one on his ef and it was a nitemare you had to constantly adjust the cable....the pedal feel was horrible and shifting wasnt too smooth thats kinda the reason i decided to go outside the box and do something different and so far i love it!!! took my car the n1 concepts once and their mechanic couldnt believe it the i took my car to get tuned and same thing the guy actually said "mayb i gotta incorporated this in my race car( 91 crx with k24)"

 

How about some pics of info?

 

you got it....ill take a few shot tonite after work and ill post em up soon

 

Didn't I read somewhere that you can swap the internals from a hydro into a cable case? Maybe I'm way off, but I sure thought I read that before. Like even just the gear set or gears themselves?

I personally still rock the cable with no plans on ever running hydro. People bitch about engagement, but I love it. It's raw and real, lol.

 

TEEHEE

 

Gotta b16 vtec wit a t66 turbo set up. But I'm throwing code 23. Knock valve right? Where the heck is the thing. And what size wrench do I need?

 

 

That is a code for something being wrong with the knock sensor, either the wiring or the sensor itself. It's on the back of the block near the top, close to the head and it's like a 26mm or so.

More info on said setup. B16 and T66?! Must be a build block with some aggressive cams.

 

hey guys
does anyone know the part no for the green clips that go on the moulding on the side of the front windscreen for a DA?
or can they even be got from honda?

thanks

 

hey guy i need a little help and i cant post on g2ic for some reason. im doing my wire tuck and i had hb420 over here helping me and he doesnt know where this wire needs to go and neither do i. my car is a 92 gs but ive eliminated almost everything that doesnt need to be on the car to make it run, ie. ac, ps, all airboxes in the dash, ect.

so i cut out the ac stuff on the ac side of the right side harness and there is a blk/yel wire coming out of the 2 wire plug in that area. the on wire on the rad fan side goes to the rad fan, and the blk/yel wire goes to what in my service manual says is an ac relay. this was in a pic of where the relays are located but the schematic says something different. but im cut them out and dont want to have to re-solder and try to hide this.

the schematic shows this wire going to whats called the radiator fan control module. ???? never heard of this before and dont know where it would be located. is this one of the relays on the ac side of the harness? here is a pic of the plug and the wire. any help would be great. i just need to know where i can run this wire without having any cel codes or what not.

 

I think that control module is somewhere under the dash.

Going to order a new clutch disc while everything is out, gonna go with an unsprung disc this time.

 

ok here are the pic of my hydro conversion been running it for about a year and no issues....btw i also used all oem parts

 

^ now care to explain how the clutch peddle on the other side of the brake booster ends up depressing that setup. You should do a write up on it

 

I meant specs on the motor?

 

yep that was the tricky part as the is no space by the strut tower to mount a clutch cylinder....all i did was change my clutch pedal assembly and drilled on big hole for the cylinder and two little holes for the bolts that hold it in place....then i took the clutch lines and slave cylinder from a dc and adjusted the as necessary to fit my da.....as you see it is not rocket science and there are no reliability issues at all as there isnt much to go wrong all you need is the ryte parts and a little outta the box thinking

 

my bad i didnt get that.....ok lets see its a b18c bottom block with 85mm Rs sleves, knife edge and balance Ls crank, golden eagle rods, 12.5:1 Rs Pistons, port flow b16 head, supertech valve springs and titanium retainers, buddy club spec IV cam, skunk2 cam gears, edlebrock victor x manifold port matched to the head, 70mm skunk2 tb, aem fuel rail, 440 RC injectors, hytech replica header, weapon r 3in air intake, 6al msd, act 6 pluck clutch and 12lb flywheel, 255 walbro fuel pump, greddy exhaust.....that should be it i think

 

ahhh haa! i found it in the service manual. its a box in front of the cabin fuse box. i see the blk/yel wire they are talking about. i guess i will run the wire all the way through to that spot and solder them together. its the timer reset signal i guess for after you turn off the car this wire sends the signal for the fan to turn off after its cycle. i hope this works.

 

Eh 85mm? No room for error there, good luck with it!

Any pics, track times?
What suspension?

 

yea i know my tuner recommended i stay at 84.5mm just incase anything went wrong we could still bore out to 85mm bt at the time all i cared about was making good numbers so i didnt listen .....dont have any track times yet bt mite go next week with a few of my buddies if i do ill let you know.....as of now am running on skunk2 pro s suspension as far as pics what would you like to see? i can try getting a few

 

im with you completely except the part in the bold. did u build a bracket that goes from the clutch pedal over to the master cylinder?

 

That small difference in bore will not make a hp difference, kinda sucks you shot yourself in the foot however hopefully it all works out for you.
How are those buddy club cams?

 

no need for building ur own bracket all i did was take a clutch pedal assembly from a 91 prulede and believe it or not evrything falls into place fairly nice.....this actually took me quite some time to figure out bt am a manager at a wrecking yard so i literally had hundreds of cars to look at for possible parts donors until i found all i needed

 

how does it connect though? u didn't put it on the right side of the gas pedal did you?

 

yea i know that now bt too late to fix it tho

cams are great they really suit my build.....i was running sk2 turner 2's and those cams where good as well bt not for my set up the sk2 cams seem to make more power at higher rpm....in my case the sk2 cams were making power way past 9.5k rpm bt i didnt feel comfortable revving my engine so far on a Ls crank on the other hand the buddy club cam made 2hp more than the skunk2 at only 8.7k rpm bt lost power ryte after that also one less foot pound of torque