no of course not that would make driving very difficult or at least very hard to get used to.....its hard to explain how it works bt 91 preludes have a rather unique clutch pedal assembly that has an arm? that goes all the way across to the other side of the gas pedal therefore positioning the clutch cylinder on the middle of the fire well....so far i have only found this particular set up on that year prelude....i have an extra prelude clutch pedal that am planning to use on a db2 that am building here pretty soon mayb a pic of that can help?

 

hmmmmm, the hydro conversion is sounding pretty tempting with the setup you came up with. i've been wanting to switch to hydro to run my gsr tranny and thinking about ways to do it and that seems pretty legit. thanks for sharing that

 

built, not bought

 

so i just eliminated that wire and the wire on the other end because when i traced it back its all ac stuff so i dont need it. only wiring left to do is the right side cabin soldering and the engine harness. should be done the wiring by next week so i will have a full month to focus on the engine bay body work and then re-assemble the car again. making good time i think.

 

x1000 and just for matt ALLMOTOR OVER BOOST lol sorry had to put that in there matt

 

NA evryday!!!!

 

I said that too when I was 18

 

Yes! You'll love it. Unsprung is not so bad. I'll be running a 6 puck unsprung myself with the DA

 

Your conversion looks pretty clean from the bay, but how does the clutch pedal actuation work? You said you used ALL OEM parts, that's pretty amazing that a prelude pedal setup just worked! How much time and money did you spend on your conversion kit? Not the ITR trans, clutch... just the money and time to do the actual conversion itself? Sounds like in your situation (working at a junk yard) it was cheap but time consuming.

You do realize that you can put hydro transmission internals into a YS1 case, right? I have the exact same transmission as you except all those gears and LSD are in a YS1 case utilizing the stock cable system. It looks and works 100% factory. I paid $40 for a used YS1 case (admittedly that's cheap) and had a friend swap the internals as well as put in a new 2nd gear. But if you're tech savvy enough to do your own hydro trans swap then swapping gears from case to case would be childs play for you. Definitely less than a day's work, probably 2-4hrs total.

 

Wire it so that it doesn't even use the radiator fan control module. The simplest and cleanest (IMO) way is to mimic the wiring for a stock non-AC car. There's a schematic in your helms right next to the AC schematic. Basic cliffnotes:

- find the wire which runs directly from the ECT switch, connect this directly to your fan
- find switched power (there are a couple options to choose from which are already in that area and being used to power your old fans) and run that directly to your fan
- remove any relays, control module...etc....

If you do it that way it's the same concept as the OEM non-AC cars. Just a very basic power ground system where the ECT switch is the switch and it switches ground, not power (your fan should ALWAYS have power running to it and it will turn on when ground is supplied via the ECT switch). Now if you like you can run a relay in this system but I figure there's no point. It's cleaner and simpler w/o a relay, and if Honda designed it that way from the factory, then it's good enough for me.

 

Picture please I also would like to see how this works.

 

Excellent information right there.

 

i said it when i was 21, 11 years and 6 hondas later im still saying it lol

 

More, please!

 

finally out not used to it...Still have to adjust ride height and window moldings and a few other add ons......

 

I've been cruising around on my sprung 6 puck for the past 4 years or so, it's about time to change the disc out. Especially now while everything is apart.

 

lol very nice come back am 22 now tho and still loving my all motor set up mayb one day ill boost my wife's eg hatch just for the heck of it am sure shell fall in love with the bov lol

 

as far as money i didnt spend any(i did buy a bigass drill bid) the parts i used are parts that normally we dont sale so my boss didnt mind me taking em(under 100 for sure on ur local wrecking yard) as far as time goes i spend about three months contemplating options (finding a jdm ys1 w/ lsd, wilwood cylinders, hasport conversion kit, itr internal gear swap you name it) bt they were all either too expensive or i had really strong doubt they were up to meet my standards so i began to look for something of my own....after i got a good idea of what the plan was and had all the parts i thought were necessary i started working on my car and took about a weekend to get it all going mainly because i had to pull the dash(removed my dam abs) and pulled the engine out as well since i had to change the tranny figured i pull it all out to have more space to work and since i was gonna bleed my brakes as well i just threw my 5lug on at the same time

 

you got it bud ill take a pic and put it up as soon as i get a chance

 

Well the block I picked up this week was FFFFFFFFFFFF'd up.
So I'm on the hunt for another one.

 

can i run it with the control modual tho? that wire i was asking about was to the ac compressor from the control mod. i just cut that and the yel/wht wire that it connected to. i dont have a helms manual. i have the oem service manual. so i just keep the white wire that comes from the fuse and then the blu wire from the fan to the yel/grn wire that goes through the ect switch which then goes to ground. that will delete the relay and the control module? i think my buddy has a helms manual that i will get my hands on.

so the non ac cars do not use the control mod or a relay? if i can get rid of the relay and mod i can eliminate alot of soldering.

 

thats the best way to do it if you have a B-Series. his way (hydro conversion with a master cylinder) is the best way if you have an H,K,F series.

 

thank you!!! i do appreciate someone giving me credit for my work....

 

SO I'm very lucky to have good friends. My buddy just picked up a DA shell for free so he is taking the LS I just got and boring it out to 81.5 to put in that and getting another LS block and we will just straight up trade for it.

 

I thought the Factory Service Manual IS the Helms, it's the only one I've seen. Even the manuals my uncle (a mechanical engineer who did some work for Honda) used to get directly from Honda were the Helms manuals. If you don't have a Helms, you need one, you shouldn't be working on your car w/o it.

Why would you want to run it w/ the control module? Doing so won't let you truly delete all of the AC components.

It's hard to quote wire colors, because unfortunately they change. I've rewired a couple cars and found that the colors listed in the Helms are not 100% correct. That color may be right when it leaves the fuse box or a control module or something of the sort but somewhere along the lines it changes. Its confusing.

There should be a white wire which runs from the #12 fuse directly to the radiator fan. Leave this as is.

There should also be a blue wire leading from the radiator fan to the radiator fan relay. Clip this wire. Make sure to leave room on your wiring connector because you'll need to splice a ground wire onto your fan wiring.

Next, you need to find your ground for the circuit, which comes from the ECT switch. Find the radiator fan relay. There should be a yel/grn wire connected to the relay. Clip that wire and connect it to the blue wire which runs to your radiator fan.

Make sure to cap off any open hot leads you may have created when cutting wires or removing components. And my instructions are just a guide. I HIGHLY suggest you test each wire with a multimeter to make sure you have the correct wire before you cut anything. Like I said, wire colors change for the cooling fan system and it can get confusing if you're going purely off colors.

If you do it the way I explained then it deletes all of the other AC and fan wiring, as long as you cap off any hot leads it can all stay in the car and it won't affect anything at all. Additionally, the way I explained will result in having wiring exactly like an OEM non-AC vehicle with the exception that power will be coming from the #12 fuse opposed to the #21 fuse.