Nope, Acura has it's own huge OEM factory service manual.

I have the 1990 Acura Integra service manual sitting on top of my toilet.

 

i would expect nothing less from you lol

 

ok so when you say splice in a ground, do you mean i can connect a ground from the harness ground box (or whatever you call it) and just solder it in directly to the yel/grn and blu connection?

when i have an un used wire i take a shrink wrap tube and leave it hanging off the wire about .25 in and then heat and pinch it with needle nose pliers. is this sufficient enough?
after staring at the wiring diagram, the colors i listed and you said are correct. i havean official honda manual pdf i downloaded and i also have an eg service manual too. strait stolen by my buddy from when he worked at honda.

and yes i do want to get rid of anything i can engine bay side of this harness. there is also no longer going to be a fan motor or blower box in the car. basicly its going to be a track car. going to meets also. the car is never driven in the rain and also sits in a garage 90% of its life. so im not concerned with defrost or anything. i may even delete the wires too.

thanks for all of this info. thats why i had hb420 here to help get me started because i was kinda lost as to where to start. im def taking my time and labeling everything as i go.

 

ok so i was looking for this diagram for non ac and i couldnt find it but then i started looking through the electrical section and i found it. they show:

ground(blk)---> ETC(yel/grn)----->RAD FAN(yel/blk)---->fuse no.21(15a)----->ign switch


so i will go the same just instead of yel/blk after rad fan it will be white. right? it shows no control mod this way and it doesnt show any other ground this way besides the etc ground. does this sound correct?

 

If the wiring diagrams at school have the non ac version, or some one knows a honda that i can pull the diagram for that didnt come with AC i can pull the diagram off mitchell at school tomorrow after my final and scan it on here for you guys.

just let me know what you guys want me to look up.

 

But boost is so much more fun then all motor.......

 

the way i just put it is the non-ac way that the oem manual says its run. i was just asking if this sounds right. i already made the harness but its not soldered in in the cabin. so i will pull it out and take apart the harness and delete all the relay wires from the harness. this will make it 4 less wires to solder i think. i took tonight off because my back is f**ked from being hunched over in the front seat soldering. after work tomorrow i will re-start the right side harness. pretty much every civic and teg had a version without ac i think.

i found it in the electrical section a page or 2 before or after the rad fan page. it has the diagram with and without ac. so it will be very basic and i just need to know if i need to ground out the yel/grn wire when i tie it to the blue rad fan wire. i thought thats what colin said i just want to double check.

 

another ? i have is for the obd2 dizzy. can i de-pin it and re-pin it to the obd1 plugs? i dont want to have to buy a new dizzy when i have a perfectly good on on the motor already. when i had my ef i had an xsi b16 in it and i just cut and soldered obd0 plugs to it and it worked fine. i dont want to do that tho if i dont have to. i dont want to cut the shielded wires because my ef had alot of electrical problems and i think that might have been the reason

 

get a distributor conversion harness as a last resort before buying another distributor

 

is xenocron a good company? i found this and they seem like a good company. they make allot of stuff.
http://www.xenocron.com/obd1-to-obd2...ed0de27f9effe5

 

I got my obd0 to obd1 distributor conversion harness on ebay for like 25 bucks

 

i was going to send my ecu to them to be fixed and they are on the way to my dads house in ny so it would a reason to go see him. i could drop it off and pick up the harness and maybe a tps. also another question, can i use the tps from my ls tb on the b16 tb? th motor came out of my brothers wrecked si and in the accident the tps got amshed into 2 pieces. i would like to use the original tb because the map sensor is on top of it. and my ls one had a problem with sticking sometimes in the closed position. xenocron has an omni power tps for $50.

 

Def good stuff

 

Ask and ye shall receive.

(These are the most current, btw)








Photo cred: Tim Oum, Sid Titus and SBGHMS (Mike)

 

A nice set of wheels and your teg may easily be one of my favorite Da's.

 

Get yourself the female end from a junkyard and make your own. Or just repin it. It's so much cleaner to just repin it using the obd female pins. Just solder then in after cutting the obd0 ones off due to the obd-0 pins are shorter in length. Ive done this on all mine with zero problems and it looks factory.

 

Thanks man, i appreciate it. I really like how the kit looks on the 90-91 designed bumpers. I've never seen it before... flows well with the red and black moldings.

 

Thanks man, I really appreciate comments like that. I'm on the search for some era-specific wheels right now. As soon as I get the money, hopefully by the end of this month I'll have them shipped over from Japan.

Thanks! Yeah it took me a while to figure out the kit I wanted, but I love my current setup. I personally love the 90-91 bumpers so finding a lip kit was no easy task. In my opinion, the USRacing front lip really sets off the front. The Mugen replica sides and OEM optional rear lip just make it complete. I also need to pick up JDM thin side moldings to finish it off!

 

Car is a beaut!


Just picked up a new block last night, round 2 here we go!

 

No. The system is ground switch system. You need a ground but it needs to be on a switch. That switch is your ECT switch. Unless you plan on deleting your ECT switch your ground MUST be the yel/grn wire from the ECT switch.

Yes, that technique for capping off a hot lead is fine. I also like to pull fuses if possible. But sometimes you can't if another system also sources power from that fuse.


Yes, that is correct. It'll be exactly like that except you'll be using the white wire for power which leads to the #12 (15a) fuse. This white wire is already connected to your radiator fan, so you do not need to rewire the power side of the fan, only the ground side.

 

Thank you! Good luck with your build!

 

LOL it's a rebuild!

 

 

I meant rebuild! I should have gotten it the first time, hence "round 2 here we go!" LOL anyways good luck to you sir!

 

Well I actually meant for the block. Last week I picked up a new block which ended up being a big pile of crap. So I was scrambling to find a new block so I can get the car back up.
Waiting on my new clutch disc too.