what rims are those? and what type of lip is that?

 

there the konig retracks..in VMF 15x7.5 +32..rims are currently for sale

and the lip is a type r replica..

 

how much for rear flaps?

 

how much you asking?

 

pmed

 

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv...242165356.html

 

4x114.3 second gen is HOT. Is this a bolt up thing or is it the same as the five lug where your camber gets all wonky up front?

 

Here's the link to my sell thread for more details: http://www.hondamarketplace.com/show...6#post44774046

long story short...car was stolen, so im selling my JDM headlights with TSX retrofit (including: 5000k bulbs, clear tsx-r lenses, ballast, amp adaptor, 9004 or h4h adapter) for $530.
also, i have a set of BNIB ingall front camber(PART #35720) its with -0.75 to +3 adjustments.
i also have a clean Tan USDM armrest for $60. cup holder brackets are broken but i cut and trimmed the top lid to make hole for cups/soda. bottom lid was bolted down.
pm me if you're interested.

 

sorry to hear your car was stolen. i always saw that car on HT. **** thieves!

 

i like the tsx fit, how hard was it?

 

I love the headlights but $530 for some headlights?

 

thanks for the support. looks like those thieves got what they wanted, i just hope they get what they deserve.

not too hard, the only reason why i used the tsx projectors was because of it's dimensions(smallest oem projectors) and easier to mount. some trimming were involved and the fit it real tight

JDM headlights(mint condition) with tsx retro-fit along with clear lenses, 5000k bulbs, ballast and miscellaneous parts for $530 is a real good deal. this complete retro-fit is also 100% plug-in-play. i paid $740 for everything, and only had them in my car for 4 months. if you were to do your own retro-fit and gather all the prices you will see that this is a good price. don't forget to mention all the work that is put in (it took me about 8 hours worth of work and this wasny my first retro-fit).

what i paid:
JDM headlights:$300
TSX Projectors: $200
TSX-R clear lenses: $50
Morimoto 5000k Bulbs: $50
klight ballast: $80
D2S Adapter: $15
Rubber butyl sealer : $30
Miscellaneous nuts/bolts/brackets: $15

Total: $740

 

I understand and am not knocking it however you have to put the price with the object, no one ever gets exactly what they put into anything back. At the end of the day they are still headlights, really nice ones but still headlights.

GLWS!

 

Guys, I finally started trolling G2IC and posting.
Dave is trying to setup a meet here in MD for those locals, check it out on G2IC and come out if you can!

 

Yea matt,you should come out.

 

I thought the only DA you had was the honey beige one? I had no idea you had another black one you have been rocking this whole time?



I think i remember the experience you had with ESP before. This was on your red crx? I think the design has dramatically changed since then. Honestly i really dont need one but it would be a nice "bling" factor and i know it would clear up some space for a header. I really didnt feel like chopping up the stock crossmember for this and the traction bar would look better in the bay than a chopped up stock xmember.


Then again i really don't need to supercharge my GSR but you know how it is.

 

Good to see this thread still going strong...been away for a while but hopefully this will motivate me to get the GSR back on the road sooner rather than later.

 

I also miss Toy Machine Racing magazine...

 

i want that arm rest soo bad!! but i need an alignment more good luck selling and sorry to hear about the car.

 

just picked these up yesterday for my da

 

rims are nice...how much and were did u buy them from

 

thanks and i got them in new jersey for $600

 

thats a pretty good price

 

My old hatch had similar power and i was using a act stage 1 it worked well as a daily and gripped great when i was getting into it. It was a 12.5:1 GSR with buddy club 4s if that helps.

 

thanks. i actually went with a competition clutch stage 2.
Yea, the black DA is what my lady drives everyday.

my CRX was black.

if you ask me, i think if you want the bling factor, you go with Full Race. But i honestly don't think either of those things are necessary unless you have to run a header that won't clear without a new crossmember. I'd look for a header designed for a DA. You can still make power with that. I've found that if you keep it simple and quit changing things that don't need to be changed the car will run just fine, cost less to build, and sometimes end up being more solid/reliable (MY stock crossmember was fine, and the new one gave me problems).