Truth.


Sorry to break it to you, but if your camber is off by 2 deg from side to side you have WAY bigger problems than needing a camber kit. Either your ride height is sitting an inch higher on one side or it's indicating some problem w/ bushings or locating suspension arms. You need to fix that problem then determine if you really need a camber kit.



If you're going for looks and not function, then don't bother reading any further. But if you're looking for a more proper and evenly weighted car you'll most likely end up with the rear a bit lower to help transfer weight to the rear as our cars are massively heavier in the rear. Here's a pic of my current ride height:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/clen/4694165715/Medium

At that height the weight is still really forward bias. There's virtually no weight in the rear of my car so that doesn't help much, but still, if I'm going to get it to balance the rear is going to need to come down or a lot of weight is going to need to be moved around on the car.

 

What happened to your rocker panel?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-93...Q5fAccessories

 

all the bushings are being replaced, and the ball joints are being replaced. The entire suspension is being taken care of. The only functionality the car needs is to run under 11's in a 1/4. and look good in a car show. lol, this is no auto cross car. and my brother knows not of what he speaks. the car hasnt been aligned yet. and wont get that until, its ready to get dyno'd. gotta get those new lower ball joints and outer tie rods before alignment anyway. but trust me its all getting handled.

 

I can't seem to own an Integra that doesn't have damage in that same damn spot. My original car had it from an incident with a floor jack and my current car (used to be Nino's) had an unfortunate run-in with a manhole cover or metal plates in the road, I forget the story now. It's hard for me to justify spending money on a paint job when I plan on ****ing the car up on the track trying to learn how to drive at my limits. But eventually I'd like to get it pulled out as much as possible, sideskirts installed and have it painted. It'd be nice to have a white roof again too.

 

Yes full suspension is getting overhauled, just not quite there yet. Engine build is more important at the moment lol

 

Engine work is the very last thing on my list to do, i've been fixing or replacing everything that's needs it first. No point of having a fast car if you have to worry about other **** going wrong

 

i will second that motion. although for me engine is second to last then fresh paint is very last. you have to start with a foundation to build a house. brakes suspension tires exhaust etc to make sure the car can handle the increased power cuz otherwise you spent a shitload of $$$...that you cant even use. (safely)

 

because the suspension literally takes two days if that too replace everything right? we would rather knock out the thing that takes 2-3 months, and save the easy **** for last.

 

Have a quick question for you DA guys.......I'm currently swapping out my 92 Integra DA LS tranny to Hydraulic tranny (S80) from a JDM ITR. My question is .....what do you do about the Power steering sensor assy on the hydraulic tranny? The DA ls tranny uses a cable from the power steering sensor assy to drive the speedometer and sensor assy also controls the power steering assy at high speeds. The Hydraulic tranny uses an electrical connector on its sensor assy to drive the speedometer and I'm not sure if it controls the steering at high speeds also. Now, both are not interchangeable. I know most of you throw out the power steering lol, but what do you do about the speedometer? I would like to have both working if possible and I've been doing some research but could'nt find anything. Any help would be great...Thks

 

was jus wondering if i can block the heater blower opening under the cowling?
will i not get heat if i do??
keeps leakin water and its doin my head in tryed sealin it but didnt work?

 

well thats your perrogative....but when you cant STOP or lose control cuz
"I can go super duper fast!" and wreck or do some major damage...pardon me for saying i told you so. You have to learn to walk before you can run.
Have you ever seen a house built from the top down? If you have I would love to see it...thats why its called groundwork cuz its where you start. what about "built from the ground up" heard that before? Not to mention if it only takes two days to do it all why not get it out of the way and be SAFE.

 

I fabbed up an old license plate to cover it but still allow air to enter (like on a chimney) and no more water leak

 

because the didnt car got coils, a rear camber kit, new brakes and had the ball joints and rest of the suspension was inspected before it went to get motor work.

OOOO thats right it did.The only suspension parts and brakes parts that are going on the car when it gets back are, asr rear subframe brace with 24mm rear sway bar with apherical endlinks, the new skunk rear lca's, the skunk front uca's, the bushings being replaced either at the shop or when it gets home, tie rod ends are not worn badly and arnt in need of replacement but when it gets home new moog outer tie rods are getting put on. New performance rotors with, goodrich stainless brake lines, and hawk hp plus pads on all four wheels, and arp studs.

The car is fine for the moment and will be fine. All parts besides the front camber kit, are not needed to dyno the car and for it to make a 2 hour drive home to be put into the garage and get put on some stands to finish the nit picky side of the suspension/ brakes.

Anyone who thinks we are slapping a **** ton of horsepower in an unsafe car, well is retarded. I go to school for this crap thanks, and would never risk my baby brothers safety just cause i wanted to be lazy.

Not to mention the car isnt being drove till all that work is completed(motor/suspension/brakes etc) and then is completely re painted, and any work there that is needed is complete, also a weld in cage will more than likely be installed while the car is being prepped for paint.

 

i used some 3m window ribon and cut in half an anti freez gallon.
but the license plate works too.

 

agreed, but while this is your case there are others who dont inspect the suspension or anything and put the biggest hp motor in they can expecting a 20 yr old (ish) car to handle it with no problems. I'm talking about the ones who intend to daily it with no other upgrades for a while and they are either ignorant or stupid. So I guess what Im saying is if you pretty much do the entire car at once (or in very close timeframe) then ok by all means do the motor first, but if the intention is high hp and nothing else for a year then that is well...dumb imo.

 

well it wont be driven until its all done, just engine work is getting done first most the suspension is already done just have some little stuff to do when engine is done

 

please explain??do you still have heat from the motor?

 

i have to agree i always do suspension first which on that note im trying to decide a set up i wanna get thinking of function & form type 1 and if not those step up to the type 2 or d2 36 way adjustables. but since its mostly a daily driver i think im going with the type 1

 

Heres a pic of mine. Brampton, Ontario Canada. The pictures are from Summer time.

This is my first b20/vtec motor that meand my buddies put together


The car as it was last summer before I got my rims



Winter mode with my riced out headlights on:


The bay before I pulled out the motor for the second time.


Before I started tucking and painting the bay


After painting it



Summer pic

I have a b20/vtec
2.5 inch full mandrel bent exhaust on magnaflow muffler and a 18 inch resonator
function and form type 2 suspenion 12k
skunk2 rear gold LCAs
Type R rear and front lip for 90-91 bumpers
Wings west side skirts
CF hood
Jdm 1peice headlights
Gold bay
wire tucked bay
fully gutted interior
Blox Extended studs
Te37 replica rims
plus more that I cant remember at the moment lol.

 

Yes another B20 Vtec DA

 

and teh rotas with teh stickerz

 

lmao

At least he admits it

 

I grabbed those rims off some guy for 200 bucks, they came like that I couldnt complain. Just bolt on and go! ahah. Came with tires and stickers on already too.

 

Suspension setup also plays a large roll in getting down the 1/4 faster aswell. Not just for going around corners.

Camber is not needed to be zero'd out. I would also suggest if your going to be running big power and launching hard, that you get your ride height adjusted to include correct axle angle aswell. No point in hitting up the track slammed and busting axles at the line. The lower you go the easier it is when your launching and making decent power.

Yes preloading helps but even with a traction bar, wheel hop is a bitch.

Trust me been there done that. You'll need to set it up differently for track and show. Never seen both done at the sametime with good result in the 1/4

But hey wtf do I know...
I use to be just like you. Defensive and all. I learned the hard way because of it. I started listening in my early 20's and it's been the best thing I have ever done.