tranny is stock itr lsd, with comp clutch stage 5. sadly 5 grand of that is engine, intake, exhaust, catch can, ecu, nitrous kit. other 2 grand is coolant stuff, power steering delete, random nik nacks, fuel delivery.

i paid 3200 for the engine with the built bottom end and how the head is, with a brand new skunk IM , and brand new CM stage 5 clutch kit, also came wth the itr LSD trans,

my nitrous kit is 550
ecu and hondata s300 650
my catch can kit was 400
my intake was 350
my header was 550
FUEL delivery prolly another 500
hasport mounts 350
oil pan 150
radiator, hoses, fan switch, thermostat, 400
full race traction bar 350.
it adds up in places.. sucks.. my brother has 12 grand in his turbo b20v. but that is gonna put down stupid horsepower 450 on low boost, and 600 on high boost.. the b20v is whats going in the DA.

 

you could of made very close to the 200 whp with stock compression and say buddy club spec 3 cams or skunk 2 tuner 2 cams

 

wow i think i spent about 3200 in my build

 

i live in colorado, so i am fighting elevation.. and i didnt build the engine i bought it built from a shop, altogether there was work in the engine alone that well exceeded 4 grand. the head is basically brand spanking new as well, 5 angle valve job and everything.

with trans and stuff i couldnt pass up the deal.

 

well i also didnt pay much for labor only the head work which i got a super deal got the head ported only a 3 angle valve job because i didnt need a 5 angle for my goal and i got the tb and intake manifold port matched all for 150 bucks

 

but as far as parts list i got
99 b20z block honed and decked
je 10:8.1 comp pistons
eagle rods
acl bearings
aebs intake manifold
edlebrock throttle body
skunk2 tuner 2 cams
skunk2 fuel rail
kidd racing rmf replica header
various oem parts like water pump timing belt etc etc
ssr cam gears

 

nice, it was all pre assembled.. i didnt really pay for labor... the parts alone plus the worth of the engine was roughly 5-6k...i got a deal i couldnt pass up.

the engine was built at the shop for my friend, but he decided he didnt want it, and wanted this clean *** dc2 shell the owner of the shop was selling for 3200 bucks. so he asked if i wasnted the engine and trans cause he needed the money for the shell(shell has a 5k paint job on it, lexus pearl white with gold flake in it).. so thats how that happened, i payed the owner and bascially they worked out that for the shell.

 

oh yea and my catch can setup i got used for 50 bucks

 

the brand new manifold and and clutch were 600 bucks.. lol i was having trouble trying to find catch systems that deleted the stupid lets put oil in the intake PVC system. so i went with the B and R lines catch can, granit it prolly a little excessive for what i will be doing. i plan on spraying alot.. lol, o i decided just to be safe. the 4 10 an in the valve cover, 2 block vents/ drain backs and the PVC plug.

 

nice to see you went with a rmf style header also.. i love the way it looks.. and from what i read that design makes the most ponies

 

i just need to get me and my brothers cars done so we can pitch them to our sponsor..and up our sponsorship and stuff

 

Matt we left the basemap alone other then the 2step and governor. Header is going on next weekend then will c

 

The only thing I'd really caution about this is V2P and V2V clearance issues. If you want to go big cams, you got to set it up properly. Only way to degree a cam properly is with the head and block seperated. That and a **** load of claying.

I'd imagine with such a high compression that you'll need to be very careful.

We once went OS valves on a high lift cam. Ya that didn't last, hehe. We pushed V2V clearance to the max and it came back to bite us in the ***. It took awhile but they did eventually smash each other to pieces.

 

off to Imports Vs Domestics! : )

 

yea skunk2 advices not to use os valves with there pro series cams

 

 

i have to get me some one pieces anyone have some for sale while i have cash lol

 

lol

 

lol... I know I know

 

i think i ll be ok without having to clay my engine for clearance, it wont break 30 thousandths on a 12:1 comp with tuner stage 1's.. now the 15:1 comp k24 the shop built had to be played with on retarding the intake cam, and claying it to meet the clearance. kinda sad the light weight piston or the sleeve failed, when it was on the dyno. They were hoping to break 300 NA horse on a k24 at a mile high.

 

Hey guys I got a quick question. Im doin an auto to manual swap on my DA. Obviously the automatic starter wont work on a manual tranny. My question is will ANY bseries starter work? or only DA specific. Thanks in advance

 

**** started putting car back together and last bolt on the valve cover snapped :/ Its one of the 4 inner studs by sparkplug wire. Is a gsr and b16 stud the same and All I need to do is unbolt old stud and put new one in right?

 

last pic before new wheels get fitted

 

i think your automatic starter will work just fine.

 

Just sold the turbo setup.....going NA again. B16 with bolt on's I just cant decide on a header. Toda or M-TEC ? not looking for major gains from this at all, this is after all my D.D.