DA Integra's Only
there's no issue with the engine, he just wants to sell it because he was supposed to swap it on his EK hatch but ended up trading the EK hatch for an EG hatch Si with a JDM GSR engine.. and yeah it has the distributor and all the engine harness.. my problem now is converting it to Obd1, because my DA is Obd1 already and i don't want to downgrade to Obd0...
Pin and wire all your OBD1 connections stuff to the engine harness on the motor.
My autox vid from today. I know my camera setup sucks but whatever. Smashin though..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRpkaiCCeHA
My autox vid from today. I know my camera setup sucks but whatever. Smashin though..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRpkaiCCeHA
I've had a look on there but i can't find anything. Guess i'm not looking hard enough.
I'll have another search but if you have a link it would be appreciated.
EDIT:
Ok, so it seems there are 2 trains of thought on this - either adjust the window or replace the weather strip.
When i close the door with the window up and the gap is present (only at the back end of the window), i can lower the window slightly with the switch and the glass pops back into line again and sits flush with rubber seal on the door aperture. I then raise the glass with the switch and there is no gap.
It's as if the rear 1/3 of the weather strip is stopping the window from going all the way in. The front of the glass sits under the strip correctly, but it passes under the strip and to the wrong side of it as it progresses to the rear of the door.
If i close the door with the window down slightly and then raise the window, the glass goes under the weather strip correctly. This must point to the glass alignment being ok and the weather strip being the problem - would anyone agree with that?
(sorry for the wordy post, i'm just trying to describe the issue as best i can)
I'll have another search but if you have a link it would be appreciated.
EDIT:
Ok, so it seems there are 2 trains of thought on this - either adjust the window or replace the weather strip.
When i close the door with the window up and the gap is present (only at the back end of the window), i can lower the window slightly with the switch and the glass pops back into line again and sits flush with rubber seal on the door aperture. I then raise the glass with the switch and there is no gap.
It's as if the rear 1/3 of the weather strip is stopping the window from going all the way in. The front of the glass sits under the strip correctly, but it passes under the strip and to the wrong side of it as it progresses to the rear of the door.
If i close the door with the window down slightly and then raise the window, the glass goes under the weather strip correctly. This must point to the glass alignment being ok and the weather strip being the problem - would anyone agree with that?
(sorry for the wordy post, i'm just trying to describe the issue as best i can)
Last edited by Papa Lazarou; Sep 13, 2010 at 01:43 AM.
Got the car back together for the most part. Just need to tighten up some things tomorrow.
Had to force in a bolt on the head because the first threads were a bit tough.
Had to force in a bolt on the head because the first threads were a bit tough.
keep it on the road this time!! lol
My autox vid from today. I know my camera setup sucks but whatever. Smashin though..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRpkaiCCeHA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRpkaiCCeHA

if i do this, i won't be able to use the ECU that came with the ls/vtec anymore right?...
ok. and you said your car is obd1. simple. use the factory harness from you car. add the wires you need for vtec. either get your obd1 ecu chipped for vtec or buy an obd1 vtec ecu (a good chip and tune def. wouldn't hurt to go along with this). get an obd1 dizzy. should be good to go.
people make converting engines between obd's a lot harder than it really is...
people make converting engines between obd's a lot harder than it really is...
the p28 will work, but the mapping wont be correct for the ls/v. best route with that is to get it chipped with a good ls/v map. any good tuner can hook you up with a good map, but still recommend an actual tune since every engine is different.
as for the dizzy... you can make the ls dizzy work, but you will have to modify the mounting tabs. there are a lot of guys who just cut the 2 lower ones off and only run 1 bolt at the top. im not a fan of this personally, but a lot of people do it without problems. the choice on what you do dizzy wise if up to you n what you feel comfortable with
as for the dizzy... you can make the ls dizzy work, but you will have to modify the mounting tabs. there are a lot of guys who just cut the 2 lower ones off and only run 1 bolt at the top. im not a fan of this personally, but a lot of people do it without problems. the choice on what you do dizzy wise if up to you n what you feel comfortable with

Meanie!
Yea hopefully! My boy NCSI is coming up from NC this weekend and I look forward to showing him what a quick DA feels like

as for the dizzy... you can make the ls dizzy work, but you will have to modify the mounting tabs. there are a lot of guys who just cut the 2 lower ones off and only run 1 bolt at the top. im not a fan of this personally, but a lot of people do it without problems. the choice on what you do dizzy wise if up to you n what you feel comfortable with
alri guys i currently have 15x7 +20 offset rims...but i want wider mabye 8 inchs shoul i keep the same offset???
i just want them flush with the arch..lookin at 15x8 bbs rms but dont know what offset they are
i just want them flush with the arch..lookin at 15x8 bbs rms but dont know what offset they are
Haven't stopped in here since i sold my da back in July, still miss her.
Guts for sale. Local preffered.
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.ph...luster-no-ship
Guts for sale. Local preffered.
http://forums.g2ic.com/showthread.ph...luster-no-ship







