fixed the play in the steerring wheel the bolt that claps the column to the rack was just a tad loose i had to hulk tighten it lol. now i just have to get al lthe rear suspension stuff fixed and then im just gonna leave it should be fine after that

 

So that was your problem the entire time?

Big ups to Matty on the great suggestion that you give up..............

 

Thanks matt......but it shouldn't take this much to figure out a problem and it sounds like he obviously fixed it.

 

that fixed one problem, i have others. my other rack was leaking so i changed it, it still needs all new bushings in the rear plus i have to put my camber kit on. im thinking of changing toe adjusters only problem is the back side of the rear toe adjusters bolts i think are broke. the car has a few issues its old and its from the north east so its not as easy to fix as say a cali car. our cars up here everything either rust or seize and seems every bolt i touch on the rear suspension breaks. its a real pain in the ***

 

yeah my buddys got a 05 325i that just hugs turns that i know my da wont... but...im sure the money and time invested in real suspension it might hahaha

 

also not to mention i need to check ball joints again they seem to go bad every year

 

didnt know they had real and fake suspension lol

 

same as everything else, real companies and knock off companies.

how do you go through ball joints every year? sounds like some more problems...

 

No just cheap autozone parts lol this was before I started buying moog and I don't know about were u at Andy but we have potholes that will sink the titanic lol I'm actually going on a year and a half on these balljoints

 

yeah roads are pretty much the same where ever you go in pa. they all suck. i def. want to replace mine with either new oem's or moog's at some point

 

any one running a b20vtec set up in the DA?
if so how much powere/torque are u guys putting to the wheels?

 

I would just go with Honda OEM parts. Also, it's not just about money with suspension. It's about how you want the suspension to perform and you set it up that way. Most of you buy over the shelf products with pre set spring rates and shocks with no regard in alignment specs and balancing the car. Don't compare how a BMW(RWD) handles compared to a totally different car like an integra(FWD).

 

Not sure if i posted already but i upgraded from the DA

 

I will be running a B20VT in a bit just not right now

 

Pulling the LS out of my DA....is 400 to much to ask just for the long block?

 

Yes.

 

i will let you know when i take mine off the engine stand and drop it in but im hoping for the 200 whp mark and somewhere around 145 tq mark would be nice maybe a lil more

 

you take what people say a lil to serious of course you cant compare the 2 thats why i said that to be honest its nothing you can put in a da to make it even almost feel like a bmw

 

I didnt think that it was ?!?!?!?!? It doesn't smoke or anything its a good strong motor. Anybody else? just asking.......

 

my brother couldnt even get 400 for an entire engine with tranny for his strong b18b with 150k

 

well damn.....oh well I willl post it up for sale for 300 and see how it goes. Another shot of my DA....

 

$300 is fine. You'll sell it for that if it's clean and in good condition. They don't bring in money, but they don't sit on the curb edge either. Someone out there needs a stock motor for their stock integra.

I got around to ordering a turbo blanket from T1 today and finally picked out an intercooler from spoolin. Phil's going to have it shipped out by today so I'm a pretty happy camper

 

Be cool man. Fix your car so you can enjoy it.

 

yeah eli i actually picked up a complete long block/tranny/harness for 400 few years back. i'd say 250-300 is the right range to look for

 

i probably wouldn't sell my ls im gonna keep it and build the block sleeve it and bore it to 84.5-85 mm so when my b20 block goes i have a spare