On that current setup I was only making 411 on my old 60-1 Turbo

The 506 at 23psi on C16 setup was:
93 octane pump gas 455 at 15psi

Engine:
LS Vtec
CP 9:1 Pistons
Eagle Rods
Skunk 2 IM
Blox Type B Cams
Golden Eagle Cam Gears
Omni Power Springs + Retainers
ARP Headstuds

Turbo Kit:
Synapse Motorsport Ram Horn
Garrett GT3076r
Synapse Intercooler Piping
Precision 600 Intercooler
Tial 44mm Wastegate
Tial Q BOV
3in Kteller Exhaust
3in Downpipe

Transmission:
ClutchMasters Stage 5
Quife LSD Differential
Fully Rebuilt LS Tranny With OEM Gears

Fuel + Management:
Precision 880cc Injectors
Walbro 255
Neptune RTP

Wheels + Supsension:
Rota Slips
K-Sport Full coilovers
Full Race Traction Bar

Interior:
Full Interior Seats carpet plastics all kept in tact
Autometer C2 Boost + Oil Gauge/ Big C2 Tach/ AEM wideband
Harness Bar//Corbeau A4 Seats with Corbeau 5 PT Harnesses

 

I've thought about it. The camera's and camcorders I own won't do me any good or else I would make one. The GoProHD kit I'm watching on ebay is calling my name heheh.

I'll have a roll bar, bucket and harness soon I think. I'm at the point where I need it.

 

No more da squad threads? Or am i looking in the wrong sub-forum?

 

so jealous

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ight=fog+light

 

*Thumbs Up*

Man I am only repeating what all these boneheads are saying but it is DAMN true...I have messed around in different cars, and you find the right fit...the DA is my right fit as I assume it is for these other guys...their 20 years old and they will break, just have to know that you are investing in something you love and pour money into the damn thing...it's absolutely 150% worth it ;-)

 

20 years old and still the greatest/sexiest/besterest machine ever built by Honda!!!

 

What exactly is wrong with the climate control system, I'm sure it's not that hard.
What have you done so far?

Close to a setup I am trying to wrap up now. Using a 60-1 as well. Hopefully my head work, larger cams and higher cmp will yield some more power.

 

as far as i know they're still around, unless they finally got locked. every one of them was a fail

yeah higher comp with boost is easier to make power and with less boost. im bumping my compression up a hair before i boost. i know almost everyone will swear you have to lower compression to boost, but im def. a fan of using higher (but not too high). i think i'm gonna be just slightly over 10:1 when i boost

 

stfu ricer

 

The 60-1 should bring you to 575(ish) the only con from me was the turbo was just to laggy IMO. What is your set up?

My setup from 2009 to 2010 is a little bit different:

Engine:
B16A2 Competition Cylinder Head work by Port Flow
B18C1 Block 83MM Benson Sleeved
Micro Polished LS Crank
CP 9:1 Pistons
Manley Turbo Tuff Rods
Skunk 2 IM
Blox Type B Cams
Golden Eagle Cam Gears
Supertech Valves, Valves Springs & Retainers
ARP Headstuds


Turbo Kit:
Synapse Motorsport Ram Horn
Garrett GT3076r .63ar
Synapse Intercooler Piping
Precision 600 Intercooler
Tial 44mm Wastegate
Tial Q BOV
3in Kteller Exhaust
3in Downpipe

Transmission:
Competition Stage 5 with Upgraded Disc
Quife LSD Differential
Fully Rebuilt LS Tranny With OEM Gears

Fuel + Management:
Precision 1000cc Injectors
Walbro 255
AEM Fuel Rail
Neptune RTP

 

so far ive taken out my unit and i resoldered everything and it doesn't work and my ac **** popped out of place so i can't change between hot and cold it sucks >.> someone save my teg!

the only problem aside from that is my defrosters not working want to get it all situated by summer and upgrade my AC

 

I cant see a 60-1 being laggy.
Not to comfortable posting things. Nothing too fancy though.
Ls Vtec (b16 head, ls block)
Built Block (stock sleeves)
Built Head
Built Trans w/LSD
9:5 - 10:1 cmp
Pro 1's
60-1
RLD Ram Horn
1000 cc Injectors
etc


-Ok so you did the work yourself, how do you know you wired everything back up correctly?

- By AC do you mean temperature ****? Put it back in?

-Defroster, does the switch work, is the fuse blown, how do you know it doesnt work?

 

Everything blows air but the defroster doesn't blow it doesn't change modes all vents blow
the **** is there but the spiny **** after you take it out

 

Ok so you mean the front defroster.
So the problem is that the air doesn't blow out the "Defroster" vents on the dash, correct?

 

^^Just do a climate control delete. f*ck it! hahah

 

Correct!

 

Ok so you have a minor problem. Take the dash apart and start from the lever you would otherwise turn/move/what have you to select the climate control. Follow the path until your find the broken link.
It is probably not connected to those vents therefore it will not change the venting. Easy problem!

 

Just like a wire that's loose? Cause last time I couldn't find one

 

If we are on the same page it is not a wire, its a lever as demonstrated in this pic from AcuraOemParts.com:

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no



It changes the way the air flows based on the vents you have selected.

hope that helps, aside from coming to do it for you that's the best help we can give.

 

So in the process of doing my studs the yesterday i believe my dust shield got bent on the front driver side, cause it makes this god offal shaving noise, but it has the same pitch as to if you tapped the dust shield. The bearings would make a sweeling noise wouldn't they if i messed them up..?

i think the dust shield is rubbing on the rotor..

 

**** that's a lot of levers >.>

 

The ONLY way to go brotha :-D

 

Just take the dash back apart and look in there. It's not that complicated.
Take it apart and depending which year your DA is either push the button or slide the slider to find the missing link..

 

ok soo i just got this type r valve cover to day and its a lil dirty does anyone have any trick to get it back to bright red