DA Integra's Only
I completely agree...anywhere you go you have to worry about thieves but just a tad bit more in the cities...i have been trying to invest in a decent alarm system but i really don't care if this car gets stolen because it is barely holding together...until I can get a few things done to her this summer then it will be worth it :-P
i would say ditch the springs, get some good aftermarkets(rockets, omni, supertech, skunk.) run the rsx-s retainers for clearance of larger cams. i would do this just to enable you to run larger cams easier.
i would ditch the tanabe too, my set-up gain alot just from changing my hks hipower exhaust piping from the cat to the rear axle to 2.5in, the hks was 2in in that section. the rest is 60mm.
a nice 3in exhaust would do your engine well.
i would ditch the tanabe too, my set-up gain alot just from changing my hks hipower exhaust piping from the cat to the rear axle to 2.5in, the hks was 2in in that section. the rest is 60mm.
a nice 3in exhaust would do your engine well.
IMO 3 inch on that setup would be too loud and too useless. Not a crazy enough build to warrant 3inch and it is going to be a DD.
umm, I think you should be fine but in order to put the studs in you have to press the hub off the knuckle so you might as well do it then. Would probably ride a bit smoother.
im not a fan of pro1's if i did upgrade it would be to tuner 2 i have seen many setups make more power with tuner 2 over pro1 so the pro 1's are out also my build is a budget build i cant spend more then i spent already so what ever it turns out to be is what its gonna be this isnt a race car its my daily driver so if i get anywhere in the 185-200 range i reached my goal and i know i can get the 185+ mark hell i see stock bottom end b20vtecs with type r cams make 180-185
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...postcount=1288
now not to really compare his motor to mine but it isnt really that diffrent besides compression but thats what a 5 hp diffrence if that i think my build will be ok for my goal
now not to really compare his motor to mine but it isnt really that diffrent besides compression but thats what a 5 hp diffrence if that i think my build will be ok for my goal
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,560
Likes: 1
From: Mashing in the big chainring in LOS ANGELES, CA
When I swapped an OBD1 engine into my OBD0 car and converted to OBD1, I didn't use a distributor jumper because they didn't exist back then. I knew some guys at a shop that did it for me.
im not a fan of pro1's if i did upgrade it would be to tuner 2 i have seen many setups make more power with tuner 2 over pro1 so the pro 1's are out also my build is a budget build i cant spend more then i spent already so what ever it turns out to be is what its gonna be this isnt a race car its my daily driver so if i get anywhere in the 185-200 range i reached my goal and i know i can get the 185+ mark hell i see stock bottom end b20vtecs with type r cams make 180-185
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...postcount=1288
now not to really compare his motor to mine but it isnt really that diffrent besides compression but thats what a 5 hp diffrence if that i think my build will be ok for my goal
now not to really compare his motor to mine but it isnt really that diffrent besides compression but thats what a 5 hp diffrence if that i think my build will be ok for my goal
I mean how much did you spend on your cams? You can get the Blox P-1's (which are the same as Pro 1's) for a decent price.
That setup from the link is pretty decent.
i paid 300 for cams and gears i got em off a buddy of mine
the skunk 2 stage 2 are a better daily driving cam then the pro 1 only diffrence is the primary lobes on the pro1 are slightly bigger then the tuner 2 but the vtec lobes are the same so the pro1 have a slight better mid range but i have seen tuner2 make more peak power over pro1 my car is a daily driver so i would choose the tuner 2 over the pto1
one is better mid range while the other is better peak power. drag racing i would also go with tuner 2 over pro1 due to the higher peak power pro1 are gread for autox and road race apps though
Thanks man...deff gonna check that out this summer
I will bring this up again...is anyone (besides Herb) selling any parts? I need two doors, a hood, a wingless hatch, and a full interior if possible (black preferred)...or if you know any of your buddies lemme know...deff going to fix up this car this summer...also what exhaust would you guys recommend? N/A, nice sound, not raspy and ricey...and deep preferred
I will bring this up again...is anyone (besides Herb) selling any parts? I need two doors, a hood, a wingless hatch, and a full interior if possible (black preferred)...or if you know any of your buddies lemme know...deff going to fix up this car this summer...also what exhaust would you guys recommend? N/A, nice sound, not raspy and ricey...and deep preferred
That's odd. Why anyone would want to put more weight in the front of the car on a car that's so front biased is beyond my knowledge. If anything, you want to remove weight from the front to get better weight distribution.
I doubt you'll be doing any type of road racing/auto-X so I guess it doesn't matter.
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I doubt you'll be doing any type of road racing/auto-X so I guess it doesn't matter.
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yea all i did was shrink the battery and move it down i got all the room i need and the smaller civic battery.
ive switching from my previous header to my rmf the exhaust got even louder..






