well i have to bad news n good new... i just got laid off like 3 days ago and today i orderd my da6 front clip soo since i have the time off ill just work on my teggy for IA

 

Anyone got any pics of their trunk battery relocation? Where's the best place to put it for a RHD 2-door for best weight balance?

Also, has anyone had 4-1 headers working right on OBD-0 B16A? If so, what did you do?

Cheers, springninja

 

I think i read somewhere that 409 or lysol will clear out the pink lines in 90-91 tail lights. On another note, slapped on my type r replica header this weekend, it's about 6 inches too short. Open header ftl. Gonna take it to the muffler shop this weekend to get an adaptor made.

 

Agreed :-D

As for the tail light issue...vinegar, dissolute in 3 parts water to 1 part vinegar works the best...cleans out every little thing that could build up in those bad boys...same with the head lights...head lights are a bit trickier because you have to soak them for 4 hours in the solution before you can drain them but works great!

As for the b16a conversation...I did the swap because I am a college student with not as much as money as old heads working 40+ hours a week...it is cheap fun (not saying it is fast by any means) but it deff gets the job done...its a fun beater around the streets, especially in my DD...so if you are going to knock the b16a obd0 go for it, but not everyone can afford 400 hp and put all of their money into their cars ;-)

 

how about the 92-93 tailights? what's the trick on cleaning them? mine has so much moisture and i can't find a nice and clean one at the junk...

 

In the rear on the opposite side of you.

Look here. OG site.

http://www.lyonel.orconhosting.net.n...-1_install.htm

 

Everyone has moisture problems...the best solution is what I did with my DA and my old DC...you have to buy some cheap AutoZone weather stripping and some weather strip glue...that works the best...as for cleaning it...do what everyone else says...you can also try any solution anyone has mentioned man

 

Everyone has moisture problems because their taillight gaskets are old and rotted.

You can do a DIY fix, or you could just buy the taillight gaskets for $18 a piece.

33503-SK7-A01 GASKET, BASE

#4

 

bought this here b1tch as a non rolling shell, with no suspension at all, no engine trans or anything. shell with interior.
400$. and this is what ive done to it so far




just put this in today, trans goes in tomorrow.

 

Thanks for the help kNOwLedGe. I'll put the battery where you said. Cheers for the link and the header pic. Good info!

 

No problem, dude. That's what I'm here for.

 

im not a fan of the battery relocation to the rear. i like to keep as much weight as i can in the front of the car.

 

I never understood why people do this. You can convert to obd1, delete the o2 sensors completely and use a chip based tuning program such as Crome to tune the motor and take full advantage of the new header.

 

im building my car with school loans lol i dont work either but for me it was either buy a swap or build a motor i chose to build a motor and it cost me a just a tad bit more then a swap of course i dont have 400 hp and to be honest thats a bit to much for a fwd dd honda if you ask me but some will argue that lol im looking to get in the 200 whp mark in n/a form

 

and of course it helps im taking a motorsports course in school so all my building gets done there

 

Hopefully you are doing it right, commonly 200hp has become the benchmark for N/A setups. Sadly most just throw some random parts together and expect 200 HP then get butt-hurt when they make 175........

Whats your 200HP parts sheet look like?

 

That does help...but the fact of the matter is when I am spending 20 grand a year in undergrad I cannot be going out spending anything on the car...it sux major ********...I have to work at a shitty burger place just to afford rent and utilities ;-)

In all honesty, I wouldn't build a decent car around here in Pittsburgh either because 1.) It would easily get stolen or 2.) The potholes and sinkholes are SO enormous it would swallow the car (and I am not kidding one bit).

Once I get out of school the plans with formulate and the dreams will become a reality...until then I stuck with a mediocre car with mediocre plans ;-)

 

well i wouldnt be mad if i dont hit the 200 mark 190 is fine lol but my parts list is

gsr head milled .010 mild port work nothing big
skunk2 tuner 1 cams
aebs intake mani
3 inch intake piping im gonna custom make a cold air
je 84mm 10.5:1 compression pistons should be 11:1 with the gsr head milled
eagle rods
portflow springs
stock valves
itr retainers
rmf replica header
tanabe 2.36 inch exhaust i know its not 2.5 in
blox 3 inch velocity stack with filter
edlebrock 65mm tb

 

oh trust me im in the mountains of north east pa i know about the potholes now my car isnt the best looking i decided to do my motor instead of looks and as far as thieves they are everywhere even up here where im at in the sticks lol

 

So I am assuming it's a B20 Block?
it will be close to 11:1 but not quite.
Cams would be the only thing holding you back as they don't typically make "a lot" of power.

 

i would say ditch the springs, get some good aftermarkets(rockets, omni, supertech, skunk.) run the rsx-s retainers for clearance of larger cams. i would do this just to enable you to run larger cams easier.

i would ditch the tanabe too, my set-up gain alot just from changing my hks hipower exhaust piping from the cat to the rear axle to 2.5in, the hks was 2in in that section. the rest is 60mm.

a nice 3in exhaust would do your engine well.

 

Yeah im pretty sure he has a b20...and yeah dude I would look at other cams for all-motor

 

just use bleach dude... took me like 5 mins
works like a charm

edit: didnt see all the last page nvm

 

i am pretty much gonna be doign the same, i order the same studs, new oem open end lugs, does everyone suggest replacing the wheel bearings, i only have 78k on my gsr..?

also do you have to press the hub off the knuckle to replace studs on integra's??

 

That's odd. Why anyone would want to put more weight in the front of the car on a car that's so front biased is beyond my knowledge. If anything, you want to remove weight from the front to get better weight distribution.

I doubt you'll be doing any type of road racing/auto-X so I guess it doesn't matter.

Converting to OBD1 is obviously the best solution, but that's not what the guy asked for. If you're on a budget like most DA owners are, it's cheaper to buy a bolt and a couple O2 bungs than to buy an OBD1 conversion harness, OBD1 ECU, and OBD1 distributor.