Spawne's supercharged B20, sponsored by DDTECH
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in regards to the porting I spent a lot of hours talking to pro's in the drag racing game
to learn the black arts of charger porting
even as far as to polish and not to polish the porting work
one engine builder showed me a cad flow movie on how the flow works on a root type charger and explained how to improve it and then show the effects of each modification
( I did spend four years in research before doing my jrsc build)
alot of the pits you describe would be damage from crap comming from the air filter
as far as the rotor striping Ive found if you carefully brush on paint striper you can get it of with out damaging the bearing seals at the gear end
when ive striped a few ive left the teflon alone between the rotor to gear case as it wont hurt it at all
to learn the black arts of charger porting
even as far as to polish and not to polish the porting work
one engine builder showed me a cad flow movie on how the flow works on a root type charger and explained how to improve it and then show the effects of each modification
( I did spend four years in research before doing my jrsc build)
alot of the pits you describe would be damage from crap comming from the air filter
as far as the rotor striping Ive found if you carefully brush on paint striper you can get it of with out damaging the bearing seals at the gear end
when ive striped a few ive left the teflon alone between the rotor to gear case as it wont hurt it at all
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4" hole saw, its a bit tricky, because the hole saw was for wood, havent found one made for metal so i just used that, gotta tilt the bit back a slight bit so it doesnt catch the lip of the VC and jam the drill up, but the guide hole has to be drilled right on the edge of the VC bottom. Once you get it going, it eats through that aluminum like butter.

BTW home depot or lowe's sells hole saw bits for metal. That's where I got mine when i did my moon cuts but I used the 3.5" hole saw.
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well we had a bit of a mishap with the engine bay painting, last week we painted it in duplicolor paint shop acrylic laquer, however, it began flashing almost 3 minutes after it came out of the can, so fast that it was drying in mid air and on the tip of the gun while we were spraying it, needless to say it looked horrible on the car. I began to strip it down and it wasnt coming off, and soon as you hit it with any sort of sand paper or friction of any kind, the clear would gum up. So i hit the whole thing with paint stripper, as i used paint stripper many times, on many different things, except that caused disastrous results with this paint. It actually turned into a gellish liquid, and ran down the sides of the car all over my sub frame, axles, suspension components, and didnt wash off, it dried back into the paint again. Ive spent the last week cleaning up that mess and getting the engine bay ready for paint again. I have to pull all my knukles and axles and get them cleaned up again, and wipe the subframe down with thinner.
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From: New Jersey
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Almost reassembled here, trans will be back on monday fully modified and bench tested. Im being told that one of the solenoids had to be replaced and they made some modifications to the valve body, various parts bored, polished, and sleeved to provide firmer more consistent shifting.
Hope to have this thing up and running by next weekend.
Hope to have this thing up and running by next weekend.
well we had a bit of a mishap with the engine bay painting, last week we painted it in duplicolor paint shop acrylic laquer, however, it began flashing almost 3 minutes after it came out of the can, so fast that it was drying in mid air and on the tip of the gun while we were spraying it, needless to say it looked horrible on the car. I began to strip it down and it wasnt coming off, and soon as you hit it with any sort of sand paper or friction of any kind, the clear would gum up. So i hit the whole thing with paint stripper, as i used paint stripper many times, on many different things, except that caused disastrous results with this paint. It actually turned into a gellish liquid, and ran down the sides of the car all over my sub frame, axles, suspension components, and didnt wash off, it dried back into the paint again. Ive spent the last week cleaning up that mess and getting the engine bay ready for paint again. I have to pull all my knukles and axles and get them cleaned up again, and wipe the subframe down with thinner.


End result looks good though!
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Yeh i was pretty upset about it too. I had always in previous years sprayed duplicolors acrylic lacquer with no issues. Even the engine enamel in the spray can dried too fast spraying on to the brake booster, and I was 3" from it when I sprayed it. I know that temp and humidity can play a large factor in the way it dries but high 80s and 60% humidity should not have been an issue. I dont know if they are mixing their paint wrong or what.
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The trans was built by precision performance trans in south jersey, im using transtar clutch packs and steel plates, 3rd gear drum was replaced because it was scratched up pretty badly from old clutches and they custom designed a purpose built shift kit and modded the valve body for racing. The torque converter is a street stall max stall converter from precision of new hampton. The tranny itself is a JDM MP7A from a SIR-G which was bolted to a B18C vtec motor.
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From: New Jersey
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Who is Mr Robot?
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
haha
im really amazed by this project... nice to see someone taking the time and effort to be different and thoroughly researching the components.
I'm curious as to how that built automatic will behave
im really amazed by this project... nice to see someone taking the time and effort to be different and thoroughly researching the components.
I'm curious as to how that built automatic will behave
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Im really curious as to how it does after the rebuild as well, I cant really say off the top of my head that anyone has ever taken the time to address the biggest point of failure on the automatic transmissions, and that's clutch wear due to lazy shifting. With the valve body being reworked to eliminate that lag, and new clutches etc, I would not be surprised if this thing lasts forever. I really wish I could have done this first and put it on the old motor setup and see how much it actually dropped the 1/4 mile time, we were showing in the datalogs on the old transmission almost 2 seconds per shift delay time from when it would come out of gear and engage the next gear and the speed would begin to climb again. The torque converter was very worn out, yet the transmission itself never slipped once even cruising on the highway where it has the most load. I actually looked for signs of damage on the splines and old torque converter today on the original trans when we took it apart to see if anything had been damaged from that last race we had where we just N bombed the **** out of it to see what it could take, and it looked perfect.
Im really curious as to how it does after the rebuild as well, I cant really say off the top of my head that anyone has ever taken the time to address the biggest point of failure on the automatic transmissions, and that's clutch wear due to lazy shifting. With the valve body being reworked to eliminate that lag, and new clutches etc, I would not be surprised if this thing lasts forever. I really wish I could have done this first and put it on the old motor setup and see how much it actually dropped the 1/4 mile time, we were showing in the datalogs on the old transmission almost 2 seconds per shift delay time from when it would come out of gear and engage the next gear and the speed would begin to climb again. The torque converter was very worn out, yet the transmission itself never slipped once even cruising on the highway where it has the most load. I actually looked for signs of damage on the splines and old torque converter today on the original trans when we took it apart to see if anything had been damaged from that last race we had where we just N bombed the **** out of it to see what it could take, and it looked perfect.











