Build is looking good man !!!

 

I would say that the cheaper one cant really determine that kind of a precise measurement, you can clearly see you are inbetween .0015 and .0020, but you can only really say its closer to one or the other, that's about it. And in all fairness, if your doing this kind of stuff by hand, your not really going to be THAT precise. For instance, I cant really take off the same amount of material with my cylinder hone on each cylinder, i can roughly guesstimate by saying im doing about 5-10 seconds on each bore, but I cant control my speed exact enough to make it that precise.

But again thats the reason for the coatings on alot of parts, the teflon coating on the pistons can take up the slack in the variations in the bore with no problems and vice versa. If the teflon makes contact with the bore during a drag run, it wont damage the piston or the bore itself.

 

yeah i figured it wouldnt be exact, but at least to be able to get pretty close like ok im right between .0015 and .0020 then id be fine.

you are right about the teflon. too bad my last set of cp pistons wasnt coated...

looking forward to seeing your car up and running again.

 

well the clearances are different depending on the alloy you use, and your horsepower goals. These pistons are cast, i ran my 4032 supertech's at .0035-.0040, your CP's should be .0050 if they are 2618 forged.

 

we run .0020-.0022 on vitara d series 75mm bore. .0015-.0020 is gonna be tight especially with the bigger bore. I don't know the expansion characteristics of the rs machines vs. vitaras, but that sounds too tight for a boosted setup running a turbo capable of 400whp. Use a bar hone if you're gonna try to diy, but honing is something I don't do my self, unless it is just clean up. I wouldn't try to set clearances with a ball hone doing it myself. Good luck though.

 

The coating on these pistons is very thick, im confident that after a couple thousand miles the P2W will open up to about .0020-.0025 with no issues. Running outside the service spec with cast pistons by this much should be just fine i think for 300whp which is the goal. The turbo is of no consequence, if it doesnt meet the requirements for what I need for the target hp range im shooting for because its too big, im just gonna sell it.

 

murphys law strikes again..

 

im trying to figure what that is?? I know its in the head.. is that from the vtec solenoid stud??

 

its the hole that the power steering bracket bolts on to, previous owner must have impacted the bracket on and it blew the casting out on the inside of the head, it broke off right underneath the cam carrier.

 

Looks more like a case of a bolt that was too long. Smear some hondabondon the threads ofa bolt and plug it up.

 

thats probably what ill wind up doing, if it costs too much to actually tig that piece back in to place.

 

finished the port work on the head with the brushes today, now its ready to be sent out, also started getting the half rad into place. gotta relocate the drivers side rad mount.

 

What grit did you finish that porting with?
Looks really good.

Any pics from the combustion chamber side?

 

120 grit plateau brush, ill try to snap some pics from the combustion chamber

 

Dam
if there is a way to do things hard
that motor has it in for you
Id call the motor murphy

but good progress your getting there .......again

 

lol hopefully with being all motor this time around first, ill be able to weed out any potential issues before putting the turbo on the car. Here's hoping there are no issues as well. :p

 

post those combustion chamber pics brah

 

these were before the final work, i actually packed it up already and completely forgot about the pics, gotta get it over to the machine shop tomorrow

 

quick question for ya.
when cutting into the guide that much does it cause long term problems? i might trim mine back some.

also is it better to leave the ports polished, or just to a rough finish?
cause imthinking to polish my exhaust sides for sure not sure about the intake.

 

Yes, it does, i didnt do the initial port work on this head, it was done by someone else. That's why im having it sent out to have the guides replaced. higher in the RPM's you go the more unstable the valve will be with that much guide missing. Especially on the exhaust side.

As far as finish goes, it depends on who you talk to, polishing increases velocity for sure, but it doesnt promote all that great atomization of fuel on the intake size. Cold fuel spraying against the sides of a polished wall causes it to bead up. So i went over mine with 120 grit plateau brushes to get that textured finish.

 

I never ever ever cut guides. The risk of dropping a valve goes through the roof since the valve head can flex and nor seat properly.

And yes, rough intake ports to prevent fuel pooling/beading and smooth exhaust ports to promote velocity and flow

 

What tcm are you using with your auto? Also how are you tuning your car?

 

OEM tcm with some circuitry modification, and the ecu is using a moates demon and ectune

 

almost back together, aside from yet ANOTHER slight mishap, and a case of the muckman's again. Machine shop called wondering why my valve guides were 5.5mm, turns out ferrea sent me GSR guides and valve stem seals. So I had to order another set and waiting on that to get the head done.

 

I feel for you lol