Spawne's supercharged B20, sponsored by DDTECH
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Changed the oil this morning, literally nothing but a few specs of metal on the tip of the Mfactory plug. Rotella T6 is in now, oil pressure stays steady at about 35psi at idle which is at about 800-850rpm. Synced the timing but my distributor is maxed for advance and its barely on 16* at the crank, so im gonna advance the intake cam 1 degree per derek's recommendation first thing tomorrow and adjust the tune. Car idles smooth as hell for having such gigantic cams.
Who is Mr Robot?
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I do have to say you are dedicated... that's for sure.
If I'm ever up visiting my buddies in jersey or I'm working our FD event at wall speedway I think I need to buy you a beer sir.
If I'm ever up visiting my buddies in jersey or I'm working our FD event at wall speedway I think I need to buy you a beer sir.
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had a couple things break on the suspension, gotta pick up parts from the dealer tomorrow and then get it on the road
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First vid of it on the highway, took it down the street and it wouldnt stop spinning the tires, then it threw a code for ECT and immediately turned to crap with a 10.8 AFR and pulled some timing. My basetune setup went from 27.5 degrees of WOT throttle on the old tune down to 21 + whatever the error code is pulling. Transmission shifts so ungodly fast compared to the old trans.
until you replace, do what i said, 0 out the ect table except for startup...how's the breaks? Motor should be nice and broken in now
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well i put the old sensors back in and fixed the problem, then went out and laid the smack down on a 2011 subaru wrx that was modded with an exhaust, 2.5L turbo lol
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mind you, this is the first night on the road, im not even tuned lol i have my laptop in the car and im writing the tune as it goes, im at 22 degrees of timing and high 11's afr
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I couldnt really tell you the speeds lol, i wasnt going above 100 though because it was so damp out, probably punching it about 40-50mph. No need to brake boost a supercharger, the boost comes on instantly.
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I have to verify the timing with the spark plugs tomorrow, double check my torque specs, and see if i can get this pedal to come up alot further. Also im pretty sure I wrecked a motor mount tonight, so i ordered avid lower torque mounts, and I have to check to see which one is gonna need replacing. lol
just to confuse ppl with the two names
box seems to pull well,looks like our shift speed is about the same,i was gna do the valve body and then saw some nice stuffies that can do very quick seq shifts,but alas goin k

box seems to pull well,looks like our shift speed is about the same,i was gna do the valve body and then saw some nice stuffies that can do very quick seq shifts,but alas goin k
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that pull was crap, i wanna get a vid of it without the check engine light
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few updates, derek did me a solid and got in touch with randy @ RSTECH to help me out with the pump gas dyno tune until we can fly derek up for some track tuning on the methanol injection. Checked the plugs today, looked fantastic, overhead for more timing for sure based on what we saw, im pulling -27inhg of vac when its coming down from WOT and almost -22 at idle. No crankcase smoking at all, no blue smoke out the tailpipe on WOT throttle pulls, and the motor only has 10 miles on it.
ECT's are staying consistent around 185-190, vs the 200-205 on the old motor in similar weather. (thanks to the OEM 180 thermostat and water wetter). Also added 1-2% more fuel in cylinder #3 because the runners were indicating it was running 25 degrees hotter on the exhaust side from that cylinder.
ECT's are staying consistent around 185-190, vs the 200-205 on the old motor in similar weather. (thanks to the OEM 180 thermostat and water wetter). Also added 1-2% more fuel in cylinder #3 because the runners were indicating it was running 25 degrees hotter on the exhaust side from that cylinder.
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dyno tuning got pushed back to wed. of this week, thankfully though because i was driving up to the trenton area to pick up my buddys new ford focus ST that blew up the other day thanks to some quality assembly work that resulted in all of the radiator hoses not being tightened, and all of the sudden my tach started bouncing violently and the car felt like i was pulling a boat, got home, picked up a new ICM and come to find out that the bolt that holds the rotor on fell OUT and was pinning around the shaft for one of the magnetic pickups inside the dizzy, fortunately and amazingly it did not destroy or scratch a single thing. So everything inside the dizzy got red loctite today. :X next time i have to replace a part ill buy a new one before i attempt to take that stuff apart lol
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Im not posting the numbers up yet because we have some issues that need to be worked out. I ran at the track tonight and got 14.8 @ 94mph as my best, a big improvement, but not what i want to see. So when we work the kinks out of this ill post back some new results and dyno numbers.
I hate teething problems lol. I'm sure you'll get there anyway.
Did you ever get to the bottom of the issue you were having with the car cutting out (a while back now )?
Did you ever get to the bottom of the issue you were having with the car cutting out (a while back now )?
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Yeh, replaced the whole distributor and problem was solved. The other day I was driving my buddy up to pick his new ford focus ST up from the dealer after all the radiator hoses blew off and had to be towed back up, and the tach started jumping wildly. Come to find out the bolt that holds the rotor on backed out and was spinning around the shaft for the CPS pickup. Fortunately everything inside the distributor was fine but I replaced the ICM anyway.




Then we start on the ranger, and be prepared to be in jersey with your game face on for early october.