Spawne's supercharged B20, sponsored by DDTECH
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,392
Likes: 1
From: New Jersey

Which particular controller are you thinking of?
No? Why would I? Non vtec head can support some pretty ridiculous lifts. lol
Yeh i mean...I would love to dump it into a 1900 pound civic hatch and run low 12's all night long, but the goal here is to maintain some sense of drivability for a DD street car without sacrificing too much. I am considering a carbon fiber hatch and hood and a RS roof skin and removing the sunroof, which I think will drop about 100-200 pounds off the car.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,392
Likes: 1
From: New Jersey
Well here is a question for you. Do you know if it is possible to tune a 00' auto prelude? Was it a problem to get the TCU and ECU to comunicate? And basically what did you have to do to get it to work?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,392
Likes: 1
From: New Jersey
I know nothing of how the prelude setup works, the TCU and ECU combination is all factory on an OBD1 teg. The OBD1 ECU is socketed and uses a moates demon with ectune (because ectune supports the programming code required to send a signal to the factory TCU that the torque converter lockup needs to be engaged), and its tuned exactly how you would tune a manual transmission car. The TCU on the drivers side was modified to simulate the RPM reading it was receiving from the distributor, this allows the car to shift beyond 6800rpm which is the factory shift point for the auto models. All of the electronic parts are factory that come with the car, just modified to suit the needs I require.
So all you had to do was use ectune on a socketed ecu because that is te only program that communicates with a factory TCU? And after that it was just like tuning a manual except for the lockup and shift points?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,392
Likes: 1
From: New Jersey
Pretty much, I could have ran any tuning program I wanted but without the ability for the lockup to engage, the trans would get pretty hot at cruising speeds because the TC would never engage the lockup clutch. So that's more for peace of mind then anything else. Individual shift points I cannot control, as the coding for the TCU hasn't been cracked, but tricking the TCU into shifting higher is a relatively simple matter of manipulation of the input signal from the dizzy. There is one code I have yet to figure out that I assume is related to the ECU tuning and that is code 14 short or open in FAS wire between D16 terminal and ECU. The only known symptom it gives is jerking when shifting....which seems to be natural anyway. Other then that, drive-ability has remain unchanged.
This is promising info! Now do you think you can
Mix match TCU and ecu? Like use a p28 and obd1 TCU with a obd1 to obd2 jumper harness and get it to work?
Mix match TCU and ecu? Like use a p28 and obd1 TCU with a obd1 to obd2 jumper harness and get it to work?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,392
Likes: 1
From: New Jersey
I could definitely change the ECU out if I wanted to, but I would lose the ability to use the torque converter lockup at cruising speeds because the ECU would no longer support automatics. There is in fact a series of components on the ECU that do control that function of the trans, but OVERALL transmission function remains in the control of the TCU itself. Shifting, rev limit, and other overall transmission functions. Whether or not a different TCU would work with the MP7A/SP7A trans itself, I wouldnt know. I can tell you that while the civic and integra transmissions are both 3 shaft 4 speed transmissions up to a certain year, the civic transmissions are physically smaller in size and have a different number of teeth on both the final drive and mainshaft. The integra uses 116mm drums and the civic uses 110mm drums, which makes the integra automatic transmission better suited for the performance application as the clutch surface area is in fact larger. HOWEVER, the JDM automatic B16 civic came with a OEM LSD, and oddly enough the JDM MP7A trans from the SIR-G integra with the B18C did not. So while I have a transmission that was designed to work with a B18C @ 7600RPM from the factory, it is stuck with the same open diff that is in the SP7A that comes with the B18B on the USDM integra LS.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,392
Likes: 1
From: New Jersey
And of course, converting your OBD2 car to work with a OBD1 ecu/tcu setup presents certain wiring issues, that and im not sure if the SX4A transmission in 96+ teg's will work with that specific wiring setup.
Yeh i mean...I would love to dump it into a 1900 pound civic hatch and run low 12's all night long, but the goal here is to maintain some sense of drivability for a DD street car without sacrificing too much. I am considering a carbon fiber hatch and hood and a RS roof skin and removing the sunroof, which I think will drop about 100-200 pounds off the car.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,392
Likes: 1
From: New Jersey
If you want to cut the most weight as possible out of the car, look at carbon fiber doors, they make them for the teg, but they are about 1200 dollars each.
there is alot of other ways to cut weight then cf parts. Iv actually got a unique idea for the doors Ill post up in a few months when they are done.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,392
Likes: 1
From: New Jersey
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,392
Likes: 1
From: New Jersey
been working on the wiring harness, got a few more things to fix and then heat shrink it up, also did the moon cuts for the gears tonight
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,392
Likes: 1
From: New Jersey
4" hole saw, its a bit tricky, because the hole saw was for wood, havent found one made for metal so i just used that, gotta tilt the bit back a slight bit so it doesnt catch the lip of the VC and jam the drill up, but the guide hole has to be drilled right on the edge of the VC bottom. Once you get it going, it eats through that aluminum like butter.










