I wanted to know if you can keep your AC system with a Jackson SC? I have looked at their SC on their website and it looks like the SC uses the AC compressor pulley section for the belt.

 

You can keep the A/C.

 

Cool, so then what belt drives a supercharger? The alternator belt?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Si_EH6_6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cool, so then what belt drives a supercharger? The alternator belt?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes it does double duty alt and blower.

 

posted this in the main forum but somebody suggested i put it here...

I've just installed a JRSC on a d16z6 on a 93 del sol si. I've had the car running but i'm having problems with my belts.

The car first came with a used 3 rib bando (what the 96-00 cars use) while the 92-95 use the 4 rib. I decided to test it with the 3 rib belt and when i started it before I could get out of the car and look it had jumped from being properly seated inbetween the JRSC's pulley's 4 ribs to being seated off center like ^ ^ V ^ V ^ V as opposed to ^ V ^ V ^ V ^. This belt broke after 38 miles, snaping across all three ribs with a very loud pop and the alternator light comming on.

I thought maybe the belt was old or maybe the 3 ribs were messing it up, so I went out searching for a 4 rib, couldnt find one, but asked bando and they said if I bought a 5 rib I could cut one rib off and be alright. I bought a cheap autozone belt, cut off one rib, pretty straight, but maybe a 1 to 2 mm varience either way, and installed it, let it run for 5 mins and re-tensioned it to 90 lbs. (however if felt much loser then the 3 rib belt that was 90 lbs. 3 ribs would deflect maybe 1/4 to 1/2 an inch, the 4 rib would deflect 1/2 to 3/4) This belt also jumps to the side not landing on the first rib of the jackson racing pulley

Everything ran fine till 37 miles later, it begins to feel like the belt is slipping, there is a liquor store (the only place to stop) about two miles down the road so I figure I'll pull over there, the belt slips maybe 5 times in those two miles, and about 100 yards from the liquor store the alternator light comes on again. This time I pop the hood and the belt has sheared down to two ribs and there are little rubber slices split from the side. The two ribbed belt has streched quite a bit and now cant hold tight on the pulley assembly.

I'm trying to find out why my belts are dying so quick. My alternator pulley has a small dent in the end of it, witch I'm thinking might be putting extra stress on the belt, I had an alternator belt on there for 30k miles with no problems, but thinking maybe the routing before had 2/3rds of the alternator pulley with a belt and now only 1/4 has a belt touching, increasing the amount of pressure put on that bent area. When I install it it doesnt seem to be jumping off the alternator pulley, but havnt had a good look and dont feel like buring through god knows how many more belts to find out.

 

Read this thread thats why I suggested it there is a similiar problem when mixing years of kits. Can you tell by looking or using a straight edge if the crank alt and blower pullies line up or is there one a little off???

 

I saw that, I was just hoping it could be something else. Car is a few miles from the house, I'm pretty sure it doesnt line up, like everybody elses, and i'll need that new pulley. Does anybody have the part number for the 4 rib pulley and the belt size needed due to it being smaller?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepydude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I'm pretty sure it doesnt line up, like everybody elses, and i'll need that new pulley.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No mine lines up perfectly but my kit was made for my car. I am pretty sure its the manifold offset not the pulley. But then again maybe someone who has remedy this problem will chime in. Can you shim the crank pulley out? Or I should ask which pulley is offset?

 

I meant similar to others who are using the wrong kit.

The problem is with the supercharger pulley, it isnt far enough out, shimming the crank would make it worse.

It looks similar to 8atman's pulleys on page 17. He seemed to remedy it by getting the 4 rib pulley from a z6.

 

IIRC, there are people that solved it by shimming the supercharger pulley out.

 

take some photos of your setup for me.

i know all about the spacing of pulleys , i can machine them for you also .

im running a stock crank pulley that is machined down and a 4 rib pulley machined down also on my 97 hatch with 2 MM of clearance to the shock tower

take me some pics and i can get you going.

also your belt HAS to be SUPER TIGHT or it WILL flip over , jump track , snap.

been there done that , it is a tension problem unless it is not TRUE to the rest of the components.

and for a 4 rib belt you need

4pk1220

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rochesterricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IIRC, there are people that solved it by shimming the supercharger pulley out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How so? never had to mess with pulleys before

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crunchtime2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take some photos of your setup for me.

i know all about the spacing of pulleys , i can machine them for you also .

im running a stock crank pulley that is machined down and a 4 rib pulley machined down also on my 97 hatch with 2 MM of clearance to the shock tower

take me some pics and i can get you going.

also your belt HAS to be SUPER TIGHT or it WILL flip over , jump track , snap.

been there done that , it is a tension problem unless it is not TRUE to the rest of the components.

and for a 4 rib belt you need

4pk1220
</TD></TR></TABLE>

have pics up tonight, car is still at the liquor store

was using a 480k4 or .03 inches longer then a 4pk1220. I was tightening it down pretty good, using a gauge to make sure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepydude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How so? never had to mess with pulleys before</TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zero...17806

About halfway down the page. They talk about it other places in the thread, just do a search to find them.

 

Do you need to remove the supercharger to get the pulley off or could you do it with it still installed?

I searched around but nomater what i type i come up with no results


Modified by sleepydude at 9:48 PM 6/10/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepydude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you need to remove the supercharger to get the pulley off or could you do it with it still installed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You have to remove it. I'm not aware of any B or D series applications that have clearance to pull it off. I've seen an aftermarket pulley system that makes it possble... but nothing I've done personally or actually seen. (couldn't find the website for this today)

Do you have this configured with the (2) black plastic idler pulleys? We've cheated and used just one with a Y8 kit used with a Z6 motor. We also shimmed out the pulley 3/8" with machine bushings. We had similar belt issues until the alignment of pulleys was corrected... not to mention modifying the strut tower/engine bay for additional clearance.

Also, we've had to use a puller to get the pulley off, but have gotten lucky more often and it comes off with a few light hits with a block of wood.

Interested to hear what was needed to be done when you get it right. Keep us posted.

 

You probably have to remove the S/C to get the pulley off. I think those kits came with a different crank pulley that had a offset that was closer to the block. I dont think you can just shim the blower pulley because you would have to do the same with the alt. You might have to get another manifold from the other kits.

 

the kit i bought had a crank pulley included, it never came up in the instructions so i never installed it, but then I would need to pull the alternator in somehow right?

currently the alternator and the crank line up.

Photos didnt come out like i wanted in the light, but it lines up like everyone else having these pulley problems.

have the set up with the two stock idler pulleys. Does anybody know the best place to get a z6 pulley? I'm thinking i might just go with the z6 pulley rather then shim the y8 out, the z6 is smaller so will make more boost anyway.


Modified by sleepydude at 10:19 PM 6/10/2007


Modified by sleepydude at 6:02 AM 6/11/2007

 

Z6 crank pulley? If its smaller (which it is) you will have less boost.

 

larger crank pulley = more boost
smaller crank pulley = less boost
larger snout pulley = less boost
smaller snout pulley = more boost

think of it like a 10 speed gear ratio.

 

And the stock z6 and y8 pulleies will have the sam spacing trust me I have had A A6 Z6 and the Y8 pullies I know!

 

i have a y8 kits, JRSC crank upgrade if anyone is interested.


not sure what PSI it would make the a6 or z6 kits, but on the y8, its supposed to provide 8psi.

 

Your Blower and alt should be lining up and the crank should be off if I am thinking of your problem if not we might have a different problem. And did you ever tell us what car was the kit made for? Did you buy it used? What was it on before your car if used?? These are important questions.

 

The kit came off of a 1996 y8, it is installed on a z6, bought it used. I was talking about switching the supercharger pulley, not the crank pulley, thats stock. I was saying I have a y8 crank pulley I could put on if that would solve my problem.

Right now the alternator and the crank line up perfect, its the supercharger pulley that is off, as seen in these pictures

(larger 3 rib further inset pulley is the y8, smaller farter outset pulley is the z6)







Modified by sleepydude at 12:02 PM 6/12/2007

 

Having dealt with this recently, this is still fresh in this old man's mind.
We removed the S/C snout pulley and shimmed it out 3/8" with machine bushings purchased at my local Ace Hardware. These must fit tight to the blower shaft. We notched them to fit over the keyway. But if your spacers are too large they will ride on the black plastic bearing seal and ruin the bearing.

If you do this right you should be good to go!
BTW: liked the pic... it put it in perspective for those having difficulty visualizing this.

Nice working clearance in the engine bay may be your next problem. We were very tight and Mr. Hammer made a crude adjustment. Not pretty but effective.

 

First I'd like to thank everyone for all the help they have given so far, if any of you are in the MD area lmk and i'll at least give you a free pizza from my work.

Second, I just put on the third belt, the other belts I had started the car, let them stech for 5 mins and retighted and drove home. They all had jumped over between me starting the car and getting out.

This third belt (a day-co job with a two year full warrenty) I didnt bother to let it strech because the car was 3 mins from my house and I was gona take it off as soon as I got home. When I got home i popped the hood and this belt has not jumped after 5.4 miles of driving.

My new question is, do you guys think it is worth driving around on this one for a few more miles to see if it jumps (all the others were in 100 rpm's of the engine being turned on, this saw 3k rpm) and if not hope all is fine and drive away, or do you think even though its seated proper this time it would be worth taking the supercharger complety off and shimming the pulley.