Not worth it unless you can get belts cheap. Even driving slow that belt will die also. Just shim the thing or get the right manifold.

 

i have a y8 manifold on my z6 and had to shim the blower pulley out to make mine stay on. before it would shoot off at high rpms, now its fine. it took me approx. 2 hours to take the blower off the car, shim it, and put it back on. the reverse process is not too hard if you put it on yourself and know what your doing.

 

It's definitely worth getting your pulley alignment correct. We had the very same issue on one of our cars summer of '05. We went through belts about every 2 weeks with local daily driving. Putting the belt back in the correct groove and re-tensioning was almost a daily procedure. As said previously, if you wanna just remove the S/C, shim it, and reinstall it, It goes a whole lot easier every time you do it.

I'm just here to say it is well worth the effort. When it's done you'll thank yourself.

I have a few extra 3PK1220 if anyone is interested.

We just picked up a new motor yesterday. It's a SOHC ZC Vtec... yes. Planning to hit it with about 10psi via JRSC. Load it into a CRX chassis and hopefully get it dyno'd in time for Import Wars #4 on July 21st. Should run a 13 something and be a solid bracket racing ride. This is a no-hurry project, so it might go very well.

 

pulley is off, thank god for air tools.

One thing that worried me is i didnt need anything to get the pulley off... it popped off when the nut came off. Tomarrow is reinstallation

 

You got that bitch on the run now... woop it's ***!

 

installed the belt straight, but now i've got a check engine light, and a real shitty idle.

Checked all my vacum lines and they are alright, only thing i can think of is the pcv valve dropped in coolent while I was installing it.

 

I would make sure all my lines were going where they are supposed to. Are you running a FMU?

 

running the jr one. I checked the code and its either 1 (oxygen sensor) or 10 (air temp valve). Cant really tell because 1 is a short blink and 10 is a long blink and I dont know witch it is. have an extra air temp sensor lying around so i'm gona put that on tomarrow.

 

Did you add the resistor to the IAT? IF so maybe that was loose maybe not...something to look at.

 

Replaced the pcv valve, that wasnt it.

I timed the light, and i think its an oxygen sensor.

The idle definatly sounds like a vac leak, and there is what sounds like a leak when you put your head to the cone filter, but I cant seem to find it. Reput on all the hoses, plugged in all the connectors, and rechecked my wire crimps, and all of them are good.

EDIT: my father busted out the stopwatch and got .98 seconds... meaning IAT sensor.


Modified by sleepydude at 4:56 PM 6/16/2007

 

it was a wire crimp that had seperated, but didnt look it because he heat shrunk over the crimps for weather proofing. Car seems to be working great, thanks

 

We all knew you could do it! Never had a doubt.

Funny to have some low end torque in a Honda, isn't it?

 

im about to jrsc a z6. i have a z1 crank pulley that is alot bigger. from what u guys said it will make a lot more boost.....

so i need to worry about getting enough fuel.

what would i need ? im cheap and workin on a tight budget. so let me know must have stuff.

 

Running stock inj and FMU??? Cheap and boost dont go together very well.

 

okay so i need to get it tuned and run bigger injectors?

 

I would (and did).

 

JRSC D16y8 crank pulley upgrade. makes 8 psi on the y8s and more on the a6 and z6. $70 (larger pulley located on the far left)

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2012924

 

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belt broke again lasted 150 miles rather then 35 this time though.

we were looking at it and we think maybe its because the supercharger pulley is ^^^^ and the other pulleys are ^^^^^ so the belt was seating ^v^v^v^v on the supercharger and ^v^v^v^v^ on the crank and alternator pulley, therefore pulling on that last rip of the belt causing it to break like it did?

(two rips snapped, two were ok, the farter out of the broken ribs was completly ripped off, half of the other rib was on the farthest out rib, half on the two original ribs, it also snapped off to the side pulling off the powersteering and AC belt while it was at it)

Were thinking running a three rib belt like the new pulley was designed for might stop the snapping.

 

Did you ever get the right manifold for the car so you can stop breaking belts. Or shim the pulley out.

 

shimed the pulley out to where its withing .002 of being perfect.

 

you are using the JR crank pulley correct? if so, that might be the problem. or you dont have the right amount of tension in the belt. reason i ask if you are running the JR crankpulley is because i had problems with it as well because it is a 3rib setup for the alternator and the alt. is a 4rib setup without some sort of a lip to keep it in line. dont know why they did this as the a/c and p/s are 4rib setup as well...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiEGg95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you are using the JR crank pulley correct? if so, that might be the problem. or you dont have the right amount of tension in the belt. reason i ask if you are running the JR crankpulley is because i had problems with it as well because it is a 3rib setup for the alternator and the alt. is a 4rib setup without some sort of a lip to keep it in line. dont know why they did this as the a/c and p/s are 4rib setup as well...</TD></TR></TABLE>
NO... he had the wrong manifold kit for the application. The manifold has a offset to it.

 

I have the crank pulley, but i didnt install it. the belt is striaght its just snapping.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveb91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
NO... he had the wrong manifold kit for the application. The manifold has a offset to it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, thank you. i remember. because i have a y8 manifold on my z6 and had to shim the snout pulley as well.


Did you notice if the belt was jumping ribs while the belt was still on (crank and/or snout pulley)? What size belt were you using and how many ribs? Maybe you have too much tension in the tensioner screw thats causing it to snap like that.