I have the crank pulley, but i didnt install it. the belt is striaght its just snapping.

 

ok i need to turn to you guys i have been working on my supercharged y8 for a long time trying to get it going and keep running into problems.

I have everything in and installed and the belt is SUPER tight. it is the right belt its the bando 3pk, i got it from hondaddy. i have the tensioner all the way loose and it is like 2 inches short i can force it on but it is putting ALOT of pressure on everything. I realize they are supposed to be tight but im not sure of that tight.

If i force the belt on and try turning the engine the belt goes straight to the outside of the nose pulleyi havent actually tried starting the engine because i am not sure if i should. Has anyone else had this problem?

 

installing new belts are a bitch.... we did one on the way to the drag strip (roadside) last sunday.
i was unpleasant for quite a while after that.

it's late and i'll try to get back to you monday

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by senate33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i need to turn to you guys i have been working on my supercharged y8 for a long time trying to get it going and keep running into problems.

I have everything in and installed and the belt is SUPER tight. it is the right belt its the bando 3pk, i got it from hondaddy. i have the tensioner all the way loose and it is like 2 inches short i can force it on but it is putting ALOT of pressure on everything. I realize they are supposed to be tight but im not sure of that tight.

If i force the belt on and try turning the engine the belt goes straight to the outside of the nose pulleyi havent actually tried starting the engine because i am not sure if i should. Has anyone else had this problem?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are adjusting both idler oulleys right you should have plenty of room the belt hondaddy has are the stock belts so they are big enough.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hondaddy.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's too funny... We're putting a Y8 kit on a A6. It's too bad that we're almost done... we could have swapped manifolds. We would have been done but other non-blower issues keep sneaking up and biting us in the ***. We've had it on the street and it pulls hard but the bargain basement CRX Si chasis was previously owned by Hackmaster McWrench. I've never seen more broken and/or crossthreaded hardware in my life. Our Y8 kit has been sitting in my shop for over a year... I only wanted $800 for it. But got bored and decided to fit it on this shitbox. As always, we've got too much $$$ in another junk... lol. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You have pics of the Y8 kit on the EF? I thinkingabout putting a y8 kit on or jut getting a A6 kit.

I have a Z6 in my EF BTW

 

Cody,
Dave hit on exactly what I was going to say but was just too tired and crabby to elaborate. Our best experience has come from adjusting the top idler up as high as possible. Then just remove the bottom idler. Slip on the belt.(It should go real easy now) Then try to get the bottom pulley and bolt in the hole on an angle and tighten. It might be a bit snug already, if not use the screw adjuster on the top pulley to get more as needed. Sometimes the belt stretches so much you will run out of adjustment. Then you'll need to move up the bottom pulley to the top of the slot. But that will come later after some nice red-line shifts...

If this **** was easy, everybody would have one.

After the correct tension is achieved make sure both bolts through the idler pulley bearings are nice and tight.

 

i got the belt on already i was just worried about it pulling to the outside of the nose pulley

if i have the belt on already should i take it off and remove the bottom pulley still?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveb91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You are adjusting both idler oulleys right you should have plenty of room the belt hondaddy has are the stock belts so they are big enough.</TD></TR></TABLE>


x2

 

i just wanted to double check because i am running an a6 kit on a y8 and its my first supercharged car so i am a rookie and didnt know it was supposed to be that tight and the pulling to the outside edge worried me.

I think I am going to have to pull the charger back off because the nose pulley may be touching the shock tower so it will be a little while before i get to actually run the car.

I wish i had more time to work on my car it sucks, i work way too much!

 

DId you use a BFH to make room for the nose pulley?

 

For what it's worth...
We usually know what we are getting ourselves into and still run into phantom brick walls. Our CRX is losing the A6. Going with a very elusive ZC sohc Vtec. Then we'll fight with that Y8 blower kit again... and kick it's ***!

Dave is right about the BF Hammer. We did some ugly work to the strut tower.
Hit it in more than we needed... was a blessing by accident.

When it's all done you'll have this strange sense of accomplishment. It feels good to wail on something you've had a part in building. And before too long you'll be pulling off the road to help damsels in distress. Car guys are like that.

 

how much does a full jrsc kit for a d16y7 runs? and wheres a good place to buy them?

 

any 1/4 mile times? any DOHC zc set ups?

 

Sky,
Actually right here... somebody got to have one they don't need.
Ol' ebay has some but you got to be careful what you buy. If the turbine is worn you won't make optimal boost.

I've bought one new and one used on ebay. Good experiences with both.
I prefer new stuff, even if I have to wait longer to get it.

91tealhatch,
This probably won't help you, but we have a '91 Si hatch with a DOHC ZC (not supercharged) that has run 14.80, but typically low 15. Never got around to stick a blower on it.

 

for the record.


you will not need to pound out the shock tower if you use NEW OEM motor mounts.

at the same time as i did my blower install, i also installed new oem mounts and polyurathane bushing inserts. no 'need' to hammer the shock tower.


i did wail on mine slightly because i thought i could do belt and pulley changes with the blower still installed. belts, no problem. pulley, welllll you cant get a pulley puller in that space. i was a newb and thought after you unbolted the pulley, you could pull it off by hand.

 

Hey in response to SKY9, i have a complete kit for a z6 with alot of extras for sale. I bought it off ebay and never installed it but now im going h22 so no need. It comes with alot of extras like the timing control box form jrsc, boost and air fuel gauges from jrsc with a s2000 start buttin all on a slick carbon fiber panel, 10lb boost upgrade pulley and a jrsc crank pulley, also has the stock pulley. Also has the fmu but ull prob wanna go p28w/ crome. SO anyway, im sellin it for 1k so hit me up if ur interested, or anyone else for that matter.

Joe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for the record.

you will not need to pound out the shock tower if you use NEW OEM motor mounts.

at the same time as i did my blower install, i also installed new oem mounts and polyurathane bushing inserts. no 'need' to hammer the shock tower.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did not have to pound my shock tower either to install the blower but any movement at all it hit the shock tower. this was with inserts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveb91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did not have to pound my shock tower either to install the blower but any movement at all it hit the shock tower. this was with inserts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree! We had ours installed the first time without hammer time. Everything would have been just fine but then we made the mistake of starting the engine and going for a ride.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for the record.


you will not need to pound out the shock tower if you use NEW OEM motor mounts.

at the same time as i did my blower install, i also installed new oem mounts and polyurathane bushing inserts. no 'need' to hammer the shock tower.


i did wail on mine slightly because i thought i could do belt and pulley changes with the blower still installed. belts, no problem. pulley, welllll you cant get a pulley puller in that space. i was a newb and thought after you unbolted the pulley, you could pull it off by hand. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I am not sure i agree with you like everyone else.

It could possibly be because i am not using a kit intended for my motor/car but i replaced all motor mounts and have inserts for ALL 5 and it still needs to be hammered in.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by senate33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I am not sure i agree with you like everyone else.

It could possibly be because i am not using a kit intended for my motor/car but i replaced all motor mounts and have inserts for ALL 5 and it still needs to be hammered in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i used an EG kit on my crx, and still didnt need to hammer anything.

must be your car.

 

Did this thread die??
I am getting things together to do a W/M inj setup I am going to spray at the TB had another thread on this but didnt seem to get much attention. I will let you guys know whats going on still figuring out which setup and what stage is best.

 

hey i have a crx and i want to supercharger it,, how much did ur supercharger kit cost?

 

you can find them used &lt;1000$

 

does anyone know where i can find a snout pulley smaller then 3" for an m45?