Holset users unite!
yes ive checked for boost leaks, i found a few but fixed it, am using a manual boost controller, ive swapped wastegates and am still having the same issue with boost drop, and i don't hit full boost until almost 5200rpms in 3rd gear, i use to have a precision 5431 and i would hit full boost at 4500 rpm in 3rd gear. but with his turbo it just feels laggy, i was considering getting a 9cm hotside for to see if it helps, i currently don't know which size i have but its either a 12,14, or 16cm.
My leaks were:
Skunk2 Thermal throttle body gasket
Compressor cover O-ring
2 couplers.
my car was also sluggish as the leaks started to grow. all fixed now and the car holds 14psi perfectly.
FYI, you need a BEP bolt on housing, the HY35 9cm hot housing is not bolt on and uses a v-band connection to the center section.
How are you testing for leaks. I have tested mine multiple ways and found the only real way to get an accurate gauge is to run regulated compressed air into the manifold and crank the regulator up until youre above your desired boost pressure. i tried smoke testing my car and it only uncovered 1 leak compared to the 3 of testing it at 25psi.
My leaks were:
Skunk2 Thermal throttle body gasket
Compressor cover O-ring
2 couplers.
my car was also sluggish as the leaks started to grow. all fixed now and the car holds 14psi perfectly.
FYI, you need a BEP bolt on housing, the HY35 9cm hot housing is not bolt on and uses a v-band connection to the center section.
My leaks were:
Skunk2 Thermal throttle body gasket
Compressor cover O-ring
2 couplers.
my car was also sluggish as the leaks started to grow. all fixed now and the car holds 14psi perfectly.
FYI, you need a BEP bolt on housing, the HY35 9cm hot housing is not bolt on and uses a v-band connection to the center section.
yeah its about the same for me, but i have 8:1 compression and am sure u have a shorter gears than me since my setup lives in a prelude.
i test it from the intercooler to the intake, i did find a few leaks and i took care of it, its this lag that concerns me, i guess am going to have to invest in a 9cm housing.
yeah its about the same for me, but i have 8:1 compression and am sure u have a shorter gears than me since my setup lives in a prelude.
yeah its about the same for me, but i have 8:1 compression and am sure u have a shorter gears than me since my setup lives in a prelude.
I have a 11.5:1 or so on e85 i can see 15psi at 4200 or so. without my quick spool feature enabled. I also have a 9cm housing

i found this 9cm on ebay,
Holset HX35 H1C 63 A R 9cm Turbine Housing on Sale | eBay
Holset HX35 H1C 63 A R 9cm Turbine Housing on Sale | eBay
anyone know the largest t3 housing that comes on the hx40? I found a couple with t3 flanges, but I cannot identify the turbine housing by pictures, or the seller isn't just replying with me info.
I looked on the internet and couldn't find anything. I'm hoping the largest housing is 16cm2 for t3... if so... i'm gonna buy this hx40 I found... I'm thinking anything above 16cm2 a 10:5 c/r 81mm lsvtec will take too long to spool.
I looked on the internet and couldn't find anything. I'm hoping the largest housing is 16cm2 for t3... if so... i'm gonna buy this hx40 I found... I'm thinking anything above 16cm2 a 10:5 c/r 81mm lsvtec will take too long to spool.





ej/ek chassis with hx35 with hx40 billet compressor wheel and compressor housing. This is my friend and tuner's car running a fully built b16a. he has since changed the colour theme, added larger t/b, Skunk2 intake and cams, valvetrain and done some other work. Aiming for 500hp at the very least with shell 99 and water meth.
ive ready around that people have had decent spooling with larger housings, but the 60mm wheel doesn't help. But, I have considered buying a .63 ar housing from tims turbo if I can't find the right size stock housing.
I have the opportunity to buy a hx40 6 blade, in very used condition, but no shaft play and in working order. I can get it for $235 shipped. Its t3, but I do not know how large, it looks to be on the bigger size. Should I go for it? My main concern, is the condition of the turbine shaft, I am worried about it being discolored with hot spots, and perhaps the bearing housing being scarred.
I can buy a new turbine for 85, comp housing for 100.. comp wheel 40, bearing housing for 50, rebuild kit for 50.. could have the whole chra for $325 without a turbine.
Or take my luck with this cheap holset? I can actually return it if I wanted to, and it seems the turbine shaft actually comes off pretty easily.... literally the condition of the turbine shaft makes the difference whether I should buy this and possibly have a turbine I can't use, and sell, or make from one from scratch.
I have the opportunity to buy a hx40 6 blade, in very used condition, but no shaft play and in working order. I can get it for $235 shipped. Its t3, but I do not know how large, it looks to be on the bigger size. Should I go for it? My main concern, is the condition of the turbine shaft, I am worried about it being discolored with hot spots, and perhaps the bearing housing being scarred.
I can buy a new turbine for 85, comp housing for 100.. comp wheel 40, bearing housing for 50, rebuild kit for 50.. could have the whole chra for $325 without a turbine.
Or take my luck with this cheap holset? I can actually return it if I wanted to, and it seems the turbine shaft actually comes off pretty easily.... literally the condition of the turbine shaft makes the difference whether I should buy this and possibly have a turbine I can't use, and sell, or make from one from scratch.
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
It's rare to see Holsets damaged unless they were very abused on a gas application. Either way would work, it's just up to you. Either way I would consider getting a drop in replacement billet extended tip wheel, they are fairly cheap these days and give decent power and efficiency gains over the stock ones, plus you can run much much higher boost pressures, like 70psi lol.
I'm giving some consideration to using my he351ve on my f22a1 project. I think it would make for a super responsive setup considering the motor will be around 11.5:1 static cr. Or I'm debating using it in a compound setup on the same motor as the secondary low pressure turbo. The fact that the f22a1 is fairly robust and loves tons of timing and big turbos is going to give me the opportunity to test systems I would be afraid to try on other motors. Like proper pre turbo methanol injection, compound charging, various different turbo wheel combinations, HHO injection, and so on. I have 3 control ideas for the vgt system ranging from super simple to overly complex.
My biggest concern with running a boost/vacuum controlled setup is at high boost pressures and high rpm when you shift the vanes shutdown and send turbo shaft speed through the roof. A few dsm guys have had massive turbo failures from this happening. I do have the pneumatic vgt actuator off of the he431ve. I thought about running that and using dire pressure (exhaust manifold back pressure) to control how the vanes open. It just depends on why sort of back pressure the setup makes across the operating rpm/load range and how much pressure it takes to get the actuator to move. My air compressor is broken at the moment so I can't test it.
And that setup above is stupid clean, I especially like the attention to detail on the compressor cover, the billet wheel should really deliver awesome power at higher pressures and the reduced mass of the wheel will increase response a fair amount. I still want to test a holset on the high compression b series motors I'm building at some point.
I'm giving some consideration to using my he351ve on my f22a1 project. I think it would make for a super responsive setup considering the motor will be around 11.5:1 static cr. Or I'm debating using it in a compound setup on the same motor as the secondary low pressure turbo. The fact that the f22a1 is fairly robust and loves tons of timing and big turbos is going to give me the opportunity to test systems I would be afraid to try on other motors. Like proper pre turbo methanol injection, compound charging, various different turbo wheel combinations, HHO injection, and so on. I have 3 control ideas for the vgt system ranging from super simple to overly complex.
My biggest concern with running a boost/vacuum controlled setup is at high boost pressures and high rpm when you shift the vanes shutdown and send turbo shaft speed through the roof. A few dsm guys have had massive turbo failures from this happening. I do have the pneumatic vgt actuator off of the he431ve. I thought about running that and using dire pressure (exhaust manifold back pressure) to control how the vanes open. It just depends on why sort of back pressure the setup makes across the operating rpm/load range and how much pressure it takes to get the actuator to move. My air compressor is broken at the moment so I can't test it.
And that setup above is stupid clean, I especially like the attention to detail on the compressor cover, the billet wheel should really deliver awesome power at higher pressures and the reduced mass of the wheel will increase response a fair amount. I still want to test a holset on the high compression b series motors I'm building at some point.

ej/ek chassis with hx35 with hx40 billet compressor wheel and compressor housing. This is my friend and tuner's car running a fully built b16a. he has since changed the colour theme, added larger t/b, Skunk2 intake and cams, valvetrain and done some other work. Aiming for 500hp at the very least with shell 99 and water meth.
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
It would be nearly impossible. On the ek chassis the turbo is usually around an inch away from the core support or less. With the condenser being on the same as the turbo there isn't enough room for the condenser and lines, no way no how. Unless you do a custom setup.
The integra, prelude, and accord condensers are full width that sit in front of the radiator, they might work with custom lines. Some OEM cars used tubular condensers that look like power steering cooling loops, one of those might work as well but regardless AC wouldn't be a bolt on affair.
Well that might not be totally accurate. If you used one of Turbo LS' clocking flanges which turns the turbo so it sits straight on the manifold you should be able to fit the OEM half core condenser without issue iirc.
The integra, prelude, and accord condensers are full width that sit in front of the radiator, they might work with custom lines. Some OEM cars used tubular condensers that look like power steering cooling loops, one of those might work as well but regardless AC wouldn't be a bolt on affair.
Well that might not be totally accurate. If you used one of Turbo LS' clocking flanges which turns the turbo so it sits straight on the manifold you should be able to fit the OEM half core condenser without issue iirc.
bought the hx40w for 235$ shipped. dirty as hell, used, but otherwise in good shape. 60mm compressor wheel, t3 turbine 18cm2. my motor is 81mm 10:5 comp 89mm stroke 2.5" piping 31x13x3 ebay ic redline 8000rpm redline, shootin for 500whp, 19-20 psi on 92 octane. I don't know how it will spool. any thoughts? I could just install it and see how it builds boost, and if its no bueno, ill buy another holset turbine or aftermarket
thinkin about just buying a bolt on turbine, perhaps a .63 ar t3 4 bolt turbine, which is bolt on for me, no wastegate, 200$ shipped. I would look for another holset turbine but that seems like looking for a needle in a hay stack. I'm also considering a bigger ic, or an air to water
thinkin about just buying a bolt on turbine, perhaps a .63 ar t3 4 bolt turbine, which is bolt on for me, no wastegate, 200$ shipped. I would look for another holset turbine but that seems like looking for a needle in a hay stack. I'm also considering a bigger ic, or an air to water
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
It'll take more than 20psi. Don't forget Holsets love lots of pressure. Especially with billet compressor wheels.
And again, that 18cm housing is going to be laggy for days. I could push my car faster at the start lol
And again, that 18cm housing is going to be laggy for days. I could push my car faster at the start lol
i would think he would be able to hit 500ish on 20. i was at 481 on 20lbs with a 35 and 12cm housing. hes higher compression and better cams than me. im 9 to 1 and on gsr cams.
bought the hx40w for 235$ shipped. dirty as hell, used, but otherwise in good shape. 60mm compressor wheel, t3 turbine 18cm2. my motor is 81mm 10:5 comp 89mm stroke 2.5" piping 31x13x3 ebay ic redline 8000rpm redline, shootin for 500whp, 19-20 psi on 92 octane. I don't know how it will spool. any thoughts? I could just install it and see how it builds boost, and if its no bueno, ill buy another holset turbine or aftermarket
thinkin about just buying a bolt on turbine, perhaps a .63 ar t3 4 bolt turbine, which is bolt on for me, no wastegate, 200$ shipped. I would look for another holset turbine but that seems like looking for a needle in a hay stack. I'm also considering a bigger ic, or an air to water
thinkin about just buying a bolt on turbine, perhaps a .63 ar t3 4 bolt turbine, which is bolt on for me, no wastegate, 200$ shipped. I would look for another holset turbine but that seems like looking for a needle in a hay stack. I'm also considering a bigger ic, or an air to water
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
I want to know if Tims Turbos will machine one of Garrett's new Ni-Resist twin scroll housings to fit an HX turbine wheel. It wouldn't require anything extra in programming if CNC/work on a manual lathe. That would really be the ticket to a responsive holset setup.
Part of me wants to take an HX bearing housing to the machine shop and modify it for ball bearings. It isn't that hard and would be interesting for sure
Part of me wants to take an HX bearing housing to the machine shop and modify it for ball bearings. It isn't that hard and would be interesting for sure
I want to know if Tims Turbos will machine one of Garrett's new Ni-Resist twin scroll housings to fit an HX turbine wheel. It wouldn't require anything extra in programming if CNC/work on a manual lathe. That would really be the ticket to a responsive holset setup.
Part of me wants to take an HX bearing housing to the machine shop and modify it for ball bearings. It isn't that hard and would be interesting for sure
Part of me wants to take an HX bearing housing to the machine shop and modify it for ball bearings. It isn't that hard and would be interesting for sure
I have a spare HE351VE center section you can try.
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Don't tempt me lol. I used to know where a fee people that were doing journal bearing to ball bearing conversions were getting their bearings but not anymore so I would need to do some digging. Technically if I do it right I can still use the journal bearing thrust washer and collar.
I would need to drill the outer race for an oiling hole then simply punch the chra around the outer race to prevent it from moving, causing a misalignment with the oiling holes. Since the bearing wouldn't need any kind of seal the oil would just flow through the bearing like normal.
I would need to drill the outer race for an oiling hole then simply punch the chra around the outer race to prevent it from moving, causing a misalignment with the oiling holes. Since the bearing wouldn't need any kind of seal the oil would just flow through the bearing like normal.
Don't tempt me lol. I used to know where a fee people that were doing journal bearing to ball bearing conversions were getting their bearings but not anymore so I would need to do some digging. Technically if I do it right I can still use the journal bearing thrust washer and collar.
I would need to drill the outer race for an oiling hole then simply punch the chra around the outer race to prevent it from moving, causing a misalignment with the oiling holes. Since the bearing wouldn't need any kind of seal the oil would just flow through the bearing like normal.
I would need to drill the outer race for an oiling hole then simply punch the chra around the outer race to prevent it from moving, causing a misalignment with the oiling holes. Since the bearing wouldn't need any kind of seal the oil would just flow through the bearing like normal.
Let me Know, the spare HE center section need bearings anyways, and I would like to try a BB conversion with a HX52HP wheel (with 7mm shaft dia.) compressor housing.



