I need to see if any of the machines are free. When I worked there we had a permanent backlog and it's only gotten bigger with more and newer machines since I left

I need to machine a new VGT arm for mine anyways so I can get rid of the toothed section

 

Kool may be interested on of those arms if I drop the fixed setup on mine.

 

Hi!

Oil feed (an4, no restrictor), and return line an12 (~15mm) will work ok (Holset hx35)?

engine - b18c

 

Yes

 

snap ring for the compressor seems impossible to install with normal pliers... help wantboost? lol

soaking turbine with wd 40, being stubborn and not wanting to move. Using a 2lb hammer with a piece of wood tomorrow, it would be easier to get the comp housing back on so I can put the bitch on a vice.

 

make friends with flathead screwdrivers, you'll be using them a lot lol.

on that note there's a set of snap ring pliers craftsman sells that fits basically everything, only one I've seen go big enough

 

You gotta step up to a MAN's game when it comes to snap ring pliers on turbos. I've gone through too many cheapo craftsman's sets for years.

I only get Lang professional sets now.

 

I want a set of those so bad. The craftsman I have I only use on turbochargers, that way I'm not killing them on everything else.

 

Oh, 92. Do you think you could take some pics of the CHRA in regards to where the shaft bearings sit? Possibly measurements of the ID/OD of the bearings themselves and where they sit in the CHRA as well as how long it is from bearing to bearing (outside edge to outside edge)? I know the VE has an 11mm shaft where the bearings sit, I just don't know the outer diameter and length.

While I think it would be cool to convert it to thrust bearing-less system like Garrett uses would be cool but that it is entirely too much work, not to mention sourcing a compatible bearing assembly or fabricating one. Simply machining the CHRA to accept ball bearings while leaving the OE thrust bearing system in place is much cheaper and faster

I just don't want to teardown my VE yet in case it's totally impossible given the design of the CHRA

Thanks lol

 

You're lucky with the set you have its survived. I've had rusted **** that have broken the craftsman sets (bending the tips off,mainly), to where Sears doesn't want to see us anymore!!!

So, I went to Lang, and got that set JUST for the TD06 and Subaru Backplates.

 

TD06 snap rings are a bitch.

The ones Garrett uses on smaller turbos are also a massive pain in the ***.

I've broken some craftsman stuff where people at the store just stare at me like how did you even do that lol

 

Ya, I'll try to get some pics tonight.

 

Thank you sir

 

Sorry got home, my wife said we have plans.....

So this weekend I'll try and get ya some pics.

 

No rush, don't stress about it.

 

Haven't fully disassemble it yet but I have the turbine shaft and compressor out and the wide part of the shaft is 11mm, assuming that would be what the ID of the bearings.

 

Rebuilding my hx35 and ran into an issue. Turbo spun freely before the rebuild, nothing wrong with it just a refresh. When I put the shaft back into the turbo it does not spin freely anymore and after the compressor wheel is put on and slightly tightened the shaft will not spin at all... what am I missing here? I've taken it apart and reassembled several times now..

 

Do you have all of the thrust bearing washers installed?

If you used the correct bearings with the proper inner diameter for the shaft you have (there are multiple options here) it should be tight but still spin. Sometimes with new bearings there's a bit of a break in period

Also you should have oiled or used assembly lube on every component you installed. Just like motors you shouldn't assemble turbochargers dry.

Also if you over tighten the shaft nut it will bind the whole assembly up and it won't want to spin. I'm assuming you downloaded the Holset rebuild manual PDF before you started this? If not google Holset HX35 rebuild PDF and it should be one of the first links

 

Everything is lubed and I followed the instructions from the pdf. I'm not sure but I think the problem might be coming from the turbine ring. I reassembled using the original internals and I still have the same problem. When I put the shaft/turbine back in it spins smoothly until I press it completely in. I'm not sure if the ring is binding up or what... should the turbine sit flush with the heat shield? I can leave the turbine/shaft in the position it spins easily but once I tighten the compressor nut it sucks it down and becomes tight again. I CAN turn it by hand but I can't see the exhaust being able to spin it.

 

Took the turbine ring off and it spins like it should now. I tried the old one and the new one and both seem to bind.. is there some sort of trick I don't know?

 

You've probably damaged them. If you don't know how to install them you can force them out of round, causing the turbine shaft to bind and making the seal useless. Take a picture of the turbine side shaft/seal.

 

i have an he351ve that i run for several years now. because of the shaft play, the compressor wheel almost hit the housing.

i have an other he351ve that is almost new, the only problem, the turbine wheel was damaged in 2010 when i cracked a sleeve.

if i change wheel and shaft from one to the other, did i need to rebalance the turbo or it will be fine?

 

Gotta rebalance anytime you're switching turbine shaft and/or compressor wheel. If rebuilding and using same wheels, no.

Wheels that are "pre-balanced" refer to the compressor wheel itself, not balanced in relation to the turbine shaft

 

ok, but if i use the compressor and turbine wheel from the same turbo and put it in the other it will be ok?

 

That's a grey area with Holsets. Some are component balanced and won't need to be rebalanced, others were balances as an assembly and must be rebalanced.

Either way I strongly suggest you have it rebalanced to remove any doubt. I'll try and find the HE351VE rebuild manual and see what it says.