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So I am running 8 ID2000's and had them all cleaned and tested after the issue with my motor, so got them all installed on the rail and back on the car. Got the fuel lines all hooked back up and ready to go. Lastly got the DSS 5.9's ready to go back in as well, on the side I had to replace some parts because the spline was twisted a bit and also got a new 5.9 intermediate shaft because the stock one also got destroyed.
Oh I have also been using the Injector Dynamics fuel filter which saves a ton of space, you can see it behind the intake manifold.
What size fuel lines are you running? I mean, if you're running 6AN for 16,000 cc/min total capacity, there's no need to do anything but stock for a sub-400 whp setup (4,000 cc/min total), right? Also, you said you're using MOTEC, right?
Is the ID fuel filter that much smaller than the OEM one, or are you saving space just by relocating to a non-stock location?
What size fuel lines are you running? I mean, if you're running 6AN for 16,000 cc/min total capacity, there's no need to do anything but stock for a sub-400 whp setup (4,000 cc/min total), right? Also, you said you're using MOTEC, right?
Is the ID fuel filter that much smaller than the OEM one, or are you saving space just by relocating to a non-stock location?
So from the fuel cell to the pump inlet it is -12 to -10 from the outlet to the filter it is -8 from the outlet of the fuel filter to the inlet of the rail it is -8 the outlet of the rail -6 to the FPR and -6 back to the fuel.
Yes I am on Motec M800
the ID Filter is much smaller than the inline Aero filter and way each to change a filter. The ID fuel filter is like an oil filter where you just spin it off at the bottom and change it, no disconnecting any fuel fittings or anything like that. There is also a little indicator that let's you know when it is time to change the filter as well.
Oh I use no stock fuel components whatsoever but for 400whp you can utilize your stock stuff no problem.
Got some new slicks, and borrowed a rim screw template and got the rears drilled for rim screws but the front side uses bead locks now so that is nice.
I’m wanting to upgrade my front hubs and go to larger axles also, I have not started pricing them yet since it will probably depress me. Lol when will you have this track ready again? Spring?
I’m wanting to upgrade my front hubs and go to larger axles also, I have not started pricing them yet since it will probably depress me. Lol when will you have this track ready again? Spring?
I’m trying to get it ready for IFO in Vegas on 12/2/2018.
So I got a couple more small things done this morning. First I am going to try something and see if it works out, I purchased a Tilton Fluid Control valve to run inline with my clutch line in hopes that it will provide a little slip in the clutch when I launch. Doing this should help let the clutch slip that way it helps reduce major shock to the drivetrain but can also help eliminate breaking loose and spinning.
I also bought a new water neck to replace the old dirty one I had. I also pulled the oil pan off because I need to get a new drain line tube made as you can see in the picture below my old oil pan got destroyed when the motor blew.
So here's some other stuff I am testing on my car, the last event I was in, I had a lot of issues with my oil catch can literally blowing oil out the filters and making not just a mess but a dangerous mess. Since I needed a new oil pan and had to weld on the new pressure/drain tube I thought I would make some changes by incorporating a little baffle so that crank case pressure wouldn't just blow up from the tube up into the oil catch can. You can see with the angle it's basically a shield that is block the tube entrance but having the little holes will still allow oil draining back from the catch can back into the pan.
I am going to be getting creative with the valve cover as well so I will get some updates on that when I get it done.
I had that problem too when at higher boost levels when the can was getting fuller
Yeah, the weird thing is I don't know if it is getting really full or the pressure is so high it spits the oil out of the filters. I am running 50 psi so tons of pressure starts building up, we've also noticed on the other race car during deceleration it is doing the same thing.
I am hoping that by adding a baffle in the pan and baffles in the valve cover it will help not push oil as much, I am going to modify the oil can a little as well.
What is the spout for as it dumps back into the oil pan? Also, what psi do you start seeing oil blow to catch cans? Or is it more relevant to the hp numbers. 25psi or 450hp and up?
What is the spout for as it dumps back into the oil pan? Also, what psi do you start seeing oil blow to catch cans? Or is it more relevant to the hp numbers. 25psi or 450hp and up?
It’s a baffle to keep oil from being pushed back up when crank pressure goes up. Now I only started seeing this oil issue recently and never had this issue before. I would say you probably wouldn’t see anything crazy under 30 psi.
It’s a baffle to keep oil from being pushed back up when crank pressure goes up. Now I only started seeing this oil issue recently and never had this issue before. I would say you probably wouldn’t see anything crazy under 30 psi.
gotcha. I don’t plan on going over 30psi, or at least I don’t think I will. I’m starting with 11.5 compression and figure 20-28 psi will do everything I want . I’ll make sure the motor vents properly , but I didn’t think I would push much oil. The oil splash makes since, I figured that shield was something of the sort on your oil pan
gotcha. I don’t plan on going over 30psi, or at least I don’t think I will. I’m starting with 11.5 compression and figure 20-28 psi will do everything I want . I’ll make sure the motor vents properly , but I didn’t think I would push much oil. The oil splash makes since, I figured that shield was something of the sort on your oil pan
Yeah I’m running 50 to 55psi so all kinds of weird crap happens LOL.
The Tilton clutch-fluid control valve works, we ran them on both street/drag and full drag applications. Did you get different size 'pills' with it as well to adjust the pressure release ?
Thank you for this build/update thread, it's what made H-T great in the past. Now days car community forums are dying out fast as everyone just uses Instagram and the technical contributions are non-existent.
Thank you for this build/update thread, it's what made H-T great in the past. Now days car community forums are dying out fast as everyone just uses Instagram and the technical contributions are non-existent.
it’s too fun, once you get 500 you want 700, once you 700 you want 1000whp LOL.
For real! That's my beef at the moment. Got the 300 milestone passed, want 500 now. Just getting it done is one thing, you're doing it for a purpose which makes it even better.
11-02-2018, 09:00 AM
Re: AZ_CIVIC'S Build, Testing Things, ETC.
Just getting it done is one thing, you're doing it for a purpose which makes it even better.