It's funny I totally sat here for a second and was pretending I had the mig gun in my hand and was seeing how those movements would work. They feel familiar.

 

haha i did too

 

LMAO me too

 

spark racing - what type of throttle body is that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sporkcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Out of 10 I have the wirespeed at 3...I never really touched it from the lower power welds I was doing for piping. When I turn the power up should I turn the wire speed up too?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, that was your problem... I would turn it up to at least 7, maybee more... just try a few settings (on scrap metal) and see how they feel... remeber though that with the higher speeds you will need to move the gun faster than you are used to, or your beads will be huge

XDEep - the harbor freight bandsaw worked good for me at first, but now I cant get it to cut straight... it is really anoying... I am working with 4" stainless tube for exhausts, and after you cut, you can see an angle/uneveness that makes you have to fill more in certain spots... I have only gone thru about 4 or 5 blades now and it is already boarderline useless for work you are selling... if you just need something cheap that isnt too precise, but will cut metal, it will work for you... it is also verry small, so it wont take up much room in your garage... if you have any thoughts of producing parts to sell I would get a more expensive one... I ahve never tried the portable saws, but I dont see how the could make precise cuts either, since you have do controll that yourself.. HTH

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phoenix GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
XDEep - the harbor freight bandsaw worked good for me at first, but now I cant get it to cut straight... it is really anoying... I am working with 4" stainless tube for exhausts, and after you cut, you can see an angle/uneveness that makes you have to fill more in certain spots... I have only gone thru about 4 or 5 blades now and it is already boarderline useless for work you are selling... if you just need something cheap that isnt too precise, but will cut metal, it will work for you... it is also verry small, so it wont take up much room in your garage... if you have any thoughts of producing parts to sell I would get a more expensive one... I ahve never tried the portable saws, but I dont see how the could make precise cuts either, since you have do controll that yourself.. HTH</TD></TR></TABLE>

Man, i have bought 3 bandsaws this week.
First was from lowes 400... ended up being a woodsaw ONLY and cut about two pieces of metal and then ate the blade, the wood saws spin to fast

The 2nd was a 1000$ Jet machine for "metal but it was a combination horizantol/vertical. In vertical setup you had to just about sit on the greasy *** clamp and use a 6"x6" table to sit your material on. Needless to say i just about chopped my ******* finger off.... sent that back

We ended up looking everywhere in town for a bandsaw, Harbor freights saw is for wood, its problay not cutting straight now because its jenky and isnt setup to cut metal. We had to order a delta machine from sears and its on backorder for who knows how long.

THe portable ones i found wherent big enought to cut anything bigger than typical exhuats runners.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phoenix GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">spark racing - what type of throttle body is that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its a 92mm T/B from our Toyota Supra Surge Tanks

 

racerXadam- thanks for the info! I should be MIG welding by tuesday. can't wait I can make beads that look like the first pic with my oxy/act rig. I hate using that thing. that hobart site is pretty usefull.

 

anyone have any ways to test if welds leak for exhaust etc?

 

duct tape one end, put an air hose in the other end with a rag, u will hear the leaks if there is any, just run your hand around the weld to find where it is.

 

Damn those weave welds are SWEET, i gotta start working on that LOL
but here's another project i just finnished up ....b-series greddy kit 2.5" flared to 3" Stainless downpipe w/ carsound cat

pic of the 3" flare

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tHIS oNE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Man, i have bought 3 bandsaws this week.
First was from lowes 400... ended up being a woodsaw ONLY and cut about two pieces of metal and then ate the blade, the wood saws spin to fast

The 2nd was a 1000$ Jet machine for "metal but it was a combination horizantol/vertical. In vertical setup you had to just about sit on the greasy *** clamp and use a 6"x6" table to sit your material on. Needless to say i just about chopped my ******* finger off.... sent that back

We ended up looking everywhere in town for a bandsaw, Harbor freights saw is for wood, its problay not cutting straight now because its jenky and isnt setup to cut metal. We had to order a delta machine from sears and its on backorder for who knows how long.

THe portable ones i found wherent big enought to cut anything bigger than typical exhuats runners.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

doh! i guess you cant just change the blade to metal ones due to speed. and if its variable, it just isnt built for cutting metal.. oh well ill have to make due with my dremel/rotozip/reciprocating saw..

i know we have a chop saw, or compound miter, whatever is used for cutting 2x4's. it has a handle that you use to push the blade down at an angle on the base. probably too fast for metal too huh?

 

Hey what do you guys think about this? Im still new to welding and would really like to start working with TIG but our shop doesnt have one. Does anyone in the MD area wanna let me come by and use thier TIG?

by the way this was done with aluminum filler rod and acyteleyne (cant spell), / oxy torch.



-sander


Haha oh and by the way for any one that asks, that snap-on sticker is there to **** off my snapon man, hes always bitching about how shitty sears tool boxes are, so i keep it on there to get under his skin, but i have no problems with mine

 

I've finally gotten around to trying out tigging aluminum today....I guess thats what you would call it . I can layout pretty good beads on a piece of flat stock and I do great beads when I run a straight line on the same piece but when I go to weld two pieces together I get nothing but what looks like what my dog lays out in the yard! I was attempting to do lap joints on 1/16 alum w/ 1/16 filler and a 90amp max at 10cfh. Every once in a while I could get the 2 pieces to join up but when I would move on I couldn't get the bead to move with it and I would end up melting away the top piece. I had to quit for the day because I was getting frustrated. Can anyone give me some advice?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redlineracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I had to quit for the day because I was getting frustrated. Can anyone give me some advice?</TD></TR></TABLE>

hahahah im in the same boat man

 

This has helped me...your mileage may vary.

I find that I have to rock the pedal a lot more with aluminum...especially when welding thicker stuff that requires more amperage.

Anyway, time your dips so that you dip when you are releasing the pedal and then pull out (pulling out is important ) as you push the pedal down. If you get the filler rod close to the puddle while the pedal is down, it usually will ball up and turn into a wet noodle because of the heat.

Sonny

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sander &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by the way this was done with aluminum filler rod and acyteleyne (cant spell), / oxy torch.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

hm i didnt know you can do al with acetylene. how much does it cost and how much harder is it than mild steel? ive since gotten a lincoln mig but now that i have more options i might consider filling the tanks up again.
or just get the mig gas upgrade kit and tank, and liner(?).

 

Hit the aluminum with lots of heat to get your pool started. once you get both peices hot you should be able to carry the bead easily. make sure both peices are nice and clean too. Contamination can prevent your filler and material from melting properly. Virgin wash thinner works well, so does "gun wash", both autobody materials.

 

thanks guys. I'm getting ready to leave work now and I found a few more pieces of al to work with. I'll see how much I can mess up when I get home

 

remember to try to keep the aluminum rod away from the heat concentration otherwise you'll get nice ball sized aluminum droppings

also, when you 're welding lap joints, focus more of the heat below the joint, because the heat will rise up, and you can easily overheat the top peice.

aluminum is a B--ch!

on a side note,

I've been practicing with my tig lateley, and i've been trying to get this whole "roll of dimes" thing down with mild steel.

Does anyone have like a video of how to create this look? Or some other advice, all i can get is a nice smooth bead , but it doesen't have that awesome look that i see from someone who's welded for many years. i'll try and find pics of what im talking about...

 

here is some welding, grinding, sanding, and painting

My intercooler piping:




original pipes after being welded


grinding down the welds












sanded down:






painted:

 

looks good remus ......can't wait to see the car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XDEep &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hm i didnt know you can do al with acetylene. how much does it cost and how much harder is it than mild steel? ive since gotten a lincoln mig but now that i have more options i might consider filling the tanks up again.
or just get the mig gas upgrade kit and tank, and liner(?).</TD></TR></TABLE>

acetylene is cool, because you can be really creative with it interms of heat, and where you are focusing your heat, and how much filler you wanna dip where. i really have lots of fun with it. Our shop bought a 10lb bunch of aluminum filler rods for 500 bucks! so the AL filler is expensive but very fun to work with. im still having trouble welding anything worthwile with acetylene, just coke and beer cans for now

-sander

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Flip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks good remus ......can't wait to see the car </TD></TR></TABLE>



almost done!





more pics and video of it (in it's n/a form) at http://www.evoeone.com !!

 

Great work man! a little time and effort makes everything worthwhile. In the mean time, my al welding has no progression. I'm thinking it might be the al I'm using(signs from around the shop cleaned up a bit) so I'm gonna head out to ponser industries tomorrow and pick up some 4043 and 6061 flat and practice on that.