Feel free to post welding and fab pics.


Not my weld but its pretty sick, I think we need a welding forum. Or a fab forum.


I don't know if this is the same weldment but it is the topside of a weld with the same material.

 

nice weld ?

 

Fab forum would be a cool idea!

-Seth

 

This is in response to all the drama in the "Super T welding pics" thread. Thought I would start a new one for all the people interested in content over the children fighting in that thread.


Modified by racerxadam at 11:09 AM 3/12/2004

 

I've welded ti before. A customer had a ti exhaust for his s2000 and it had a crack in it. I did alot of reading on how to weld it and gave it a shot. It came out beautiful. It welds very similar to stainless, but you have to shield and backpurge it very carefully or it won't come out right. I like it though, it looks awesome welded and it's pretty cool working with somewhat exotic materials like that!

 

werd....

I would like to see some inconnel work along with the titanium.

 

yeah too bad it costs so much. i really would like to get my hands on some to try it out but even the filler metal is expensive. it supposedly wets the easiest of any metal. but the sheilding is definately very important.

 

yeah definately...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racerxadam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Feel free to post welding and fab pics.


Not my weld but its pretty sick, I think we need a welding forum. Or a fab forum.


I don't know if this is the same weldment but it is the topside of a weld with the same material.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If thats not welded by a robot, im impressed. I wish my beads looked like that.


Rob &lt;--new to tig, but loving it!

 

I can get the topside to look like that in stainless or mild steel but not the penetration side. I don't see how you can weld with enough heat to get it to penetrate that far but still have a small bead. baffles the mind

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racerxadam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can get the topside to look like that in stainless or mild steel but not the penetration side. I don't see how you can weld with enough heat to get it to penetrate that far but still have a small bead. baffles the mind</TD></TR></TABLE>

Fast moving with allot of heat, thats the only thing that I can think of, very nice though.


Rob

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rjardy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Fast moving with allot of heat, thats the only thing that I can think of</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then you have to be precise at the same time. Sounds like a tall order.

 

Yeah that is a sweet weld and it just makes me want to go out and grab a tig machine right now!

 

hey, someone explain the proper way to go about back-purging and the shielding?
I have only been taught how to Mild steel and aluminum which i think i have picked up pretty well.
i have alot of stainless projects laying around that i have not done because no one around has the time nor the knowledge to do it right and sit down and show me.


I have some pics of what im doing right now, nothing to fancy, wish i had some close-ups on the I/C piping and the exhaust work




Modified by This One at 9:21 PM 7/30/2004

 

I wouldn't know what to say as far as flow rates go but the idea is to cap off the ends of pipes to be welded or build a fixture on the back side of the weld and flow your sheilding gas into that area. For stainless you can also use a product called Solar Flux that you mix with Dry-gas and paint on the backside of the weld, under high heat it sort of melts and forms a barrier against ambient air contacting the metal underneath. I've read there is as much as a 30% loss in weld strength of stainless when not backpurged or protected in some way

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racerxadam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't know what to say as far as flow rates go but the idea is to cap off the ends of pipes to be welded or build a fixture on the back side of the weld and flow your sheilding gas into that area. For stainless you can also use a product called Solar Flux that you mix with Dry-gas and paint on the backside of the weld, under high heat it sort of melts and forms a barrier against ambient air contacting the metal underneath. I've read there is as much as a 30% loss in weld strength of stainless when not backpurged or protected in some way</TD></TR></TABLE>

so basically just creating a barrier or jig to direct the gas/keep the gas in the same area of the weld?

Sounds easy enough.


Modified by This One at 9:21 PM 7/30/2004

 

Let's not forget this beauty.



That's an H-T member's oilpan, but I forget who.

Sonny

 

I know how it belongs to. I made him a downpipe last week. It looked much better than that.


Modified by racerxadam at 10:49 PM 12/7/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tHIS oNE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so basically just creating a barrier or jig to direct the gas/keep the gas in the same area of the weld?

</TD></TR></TABLE>


pretty much, I've heard and seen aluminum foil used to create a small cavity on the back side of the weld and the gas is fed into said cavity. On pipes you can use masking tape. There is this really neat thing I saw on the hobart board as well, Its a pourus bronze block and you can feed the gas into the bottom of it and the gas will rise out of the block. you weld on top of the block and it purges the bottom. Its whats being welded on in this pic

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FWIW I believe tranny cases are aluminum... in which case welding it is quite difficult, but not impossible... </TD></TR></TABLE>

alright....i moved these over from the other thread. these are ffgeons aka jon's (head welder at FR) aluminum TIG beads on my '96 se-r tranny (vlsd....its better than nothing ) thats in my 92 se-r. i dont know how many follow high whp nissans, but the FF trannies are notorious for shattering gears and cracking cases. hopefully this one lasts a little longer for me....its cyro'd, weld'd, and filled with redline shockproof heavy.

back on welding....TIG'ing this tranny took a very long time! i drained the fluid and tried to clean the surfaces really well. every time jon laid down a bead, the impurites from the crappy casting material would pop up. so after every bead we ground down the weld and cleaned it, then he laid down another bead effectively adding more material.

stock nissan tranny


my tranny

 

I was admiring that weld after getting home from the shop and having less than awesome results fixing a crack in a dsm trans case. it didn't leak but it didn't look like that by far. No matter what I did I couldn't get the impurities out. Damn metal soaked up all the gear oil in the trans. Even a preheat with the oxy/acy torch didn't help

 

u should ask ffgeon about the "argon pits"

another way to create an inert atmoshphere


from http://www.tigdepot.com
"The Hi-Tech Inflatable Purge Chamber (30" diameter as shown) is used in the TIG process to provide an inert atmosphere for welding Titanium and other reactive alloys. Unique to this design is the ability to draw a vacuum around the product to be welded which collapses the chamber, removing atmosphere. The chamber is then filled through a perforated hose that covers the circumference of the chamber. This filling process allows the inert gases to diffuse more efficiently and purge out atmospheric gases faster than traditional filling methods. This process significantly reduces the time required to reach an inert atmosphere suitable for welding. "

 

I picked up some aluminum cleaner from the welding store and it works great for things like that that have been soaked in oil. Well worth the $15 it costs!

 

if you can find me one for less than a grand I'm down. at least thats how much they were last time I checked. I want to convert a media blasting cabinet over

 

hey do you have pics of my trucks trailing arms or the cast turbine housing? post a pic of the trailing arms with jotechs collector to show a cross stitch.