can someone help me with a machinig question. heres the link. no reposts, lol. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=761753

 

I'm not sure but I would think someone at this forum would know: http://www.homeshopmachinist.net/ There are a lot of engine builders in there that could probably take pictures for ya. In fact I think some of them do it on a brake lathe, if I remember right. I dunno, but if you go in there and hunt around some I bet you could find something.

 

Would something like this: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...68000 be suitable for doing exhaust work? Grinding off slag wouldn't be a problem, I just don't know if gasless MIG would be good enough.

 

If all you want to do is just exhaust like the stuff from the just after the header on back then yeah I would get it. If you think you are ever going to do something else like maybe a little bodywork or something else that might painted afterwards or if your like me and know you will get tired of grinding and cleaning welds after your done then I would probably get something like a sp135+ or 175+. Another thing is knowing that you have that extra power will be worth it if you ever happen to need it.

 

i did some alum welding today gettin better, 1/8 Aluminum is very easy to weld, main idea is you need to get the base metal really hot, i tigged some 22 gauge alum to 1/8 aluminum sheets, lap welds n what not, easy as **** just to pull a beautiful bead on the aluminum flat, but when you lap em over its a pain cuz it burns thru easier, however if you use the same thickness metal it isnt too bad. if you're welding somethign thicker to somethgin thinner. heat up the thicker piece first and kinda move around. i got the rytham of heat, pull dip, however sometimes when i can, just heat and dip in " jabbing" motions jab it into the puddle and pull out. personally for me it made more uniform beads .

 

 

i got bored

 

Yeah I grabbed a few links and some info off of hobartwelders last night. Apparently, with inverter welders the old rules are damn near thrown out the window. Don't use pure tungsten, grind to a point, and make the machine do most of the work by adjusting the a/c balance and hertz settings to control the clean penetration and how narrow or wide the arc is. I didn't get a chance to try it today but I will give it another try tomorrow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got bored




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how do you guys flatten the top of the runner where it meets the flange, and your second pic isnt working.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racerxadam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There are quite a few. in the second pic the dots are pauses. the third pic is a vertical up technique. there are a lot of others that generate different results.







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Hey I got my lincoln 135t up and running today! I can't beleive how easy it is to do all those ^ cool weaves you showed us. I was able to do all but the last one with ease. After reading this thread and the hobart forums I took a couple pages of notes and was able to get some awesome beads after one or two tries. Thanks guys!!! knowledge is a HUGE time saver.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridvteceg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how do you guys flatten the top of the runner where it meets the flange, and your second pic isnt working.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

a vise

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a vise </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly. One of my best toys is an old fashioned anvil vise. I like to use soft jaws for anything that might been seen though. Just stick some urethane between the vise and the work and it work great.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
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got any shots of the collector?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hey I got my lincoln 135t up and running today! I can't beleive how easy it is to do all those ^ cool weaves you showed us. I was able to do all but the last one with ease. After reading this thread and the hobart forums I took a couple pages of notes and was able to get some awesome beads after one or two tries. Thanks guys!!! knowledge is a HUGE time saver.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And all this is mig...........right?

 

yes lincoln 135 is a MIG

 

I'm FINALLY getting the hang of the aluminum. Started forming what actually resembles beads yesterday. The "stabbing" idea worked real well and made it somewhat easier for me to figure out what exactly I should be looking for, thanks project dc2 and everybody else for the help I appreciate it. Oh, and if any of you guys out there happen to buy any of the new inverter machines, DO NOT use pure tungsten on aluminum. Use 2% Th or 1.5% lath or 2% cer grind to a semi-point and go with it. Use your a/c balance to configure your cleaning action and how wide your bead is and use your hz control for how wide your arc is.

Thats my advice for now. Have fun.

 

OK I saw that Some one did their wiring on their own as did I, I just have one problem. How Do you deal with the HF radiation? We are gettin it in the phones and the TVs. Any Ideas?

 

It sounds like you are either working to close to the affected items or your ground(on the machine) is too far away from your work. Think of your ground and the torch as the diameter of a satellite dish. The further away your ground is from your torch, the bigger the diameter of the dish your hf is brodcasting from. Also check that the ground you are using is a good ground.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jeckturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK I saw that Some one did their wiring on their own as did I, I just have one problem. How Do you deal with the HF radiation? We are gettin it in the phones and the TVs. Any Ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>
There really isnt anything you can do about it. When we put up the new shop, we INSISTED on a new transformer because I blew up my dads office phone(it would ring everytime I hit the pedal, dial on its own and ****, no joke!). Since then, no problems whatsoever.
One thing that sucks though, in the new shop, we had to have GFI plugs all over. Whenever you hit the pedal, you hear about 15 of them pop consecutively. Kinda funny, but it sucks when youre cutting collectors, and your band saws just stop in their tracks. Ya, time for the GFIs to hit the road!

 

Do you think its the HF or do you have all of your GFI's run in series?

 

When I weld with HF turned on continuously (for aluminum), my wife says that all of the pipes in the house start rattling. She doesn't like it. lol

Sonny

 

Tinker i think you have welding ghosts.. lol

The HF on my machine is constant. It "Helps to stabilize the arc" and neat stuff like that. The first thing i looked for was how to turn the HF off..

mike

 

hehe another advantage with having an inverter machine is that it uses hf for start only HF on transformer machines stay constant to keep the arc from shutting off at the 0hz level as it travels between the positive and negative sides of the sine wave. Otherwise you would get something like this "bzzzz.....bzzzz.....bzzzz....bzzzz" only a little bit faster.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redlineracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you think its the HF or do you have all of your GFI's run in series? </TD></TR></TABLE>
nope. 16 seperate circuits, ALL had to have its own GFI
Not all the plugs pop, but they all do w/in a 20 ft radius of the torch.