Function and Form coilover thread
Sounds like a thud/clunking noise when going over a bump, pot hole, etc. its not very bouncy to tell you the truth. It is a change from how it was before seems like the suspension is having a lot more travel now when driving. When i push down on the trunk seems like it's very easy to compress the suspension compared to the other 3 sides of the car.
Same **** with my front left, how much did they quote you? PM me if you want.
Sounds like a thud/clunking noise when going over a bump, pot hole, etc. its not very bouncy to tell you the truth. It is a change from how it was before seems like the suspension is having a lot more travel now when driving. When i push down on the trunk seems like it's very easy to compress the suspension compared to the other 3 sides of the car.


Function and Form Type One for 92-95
They are FOR SALE
They have like 300 miles on them (im fcking serious). I installed em on some kids autotragic EG and a week later he gets an EG Si with Type 2s on it so I bought them off of him and installed them on my car. Ive used em for about 5 miles on my car because I started removing my turbo kit.
$500 shipped to any of the 48 states OBO
anyone know how much more preload i can add? i know these are prelaoded 5mm out the box. im trying to stiffen them up a bit so i dont bang the crap out of my shock tower.
who said it drove like ****? it drives awesome if you take into consideration the ride quality for a car 1 inch from the ground.
Yes i messed with the preload, but like i posted earlier. i said i also worked the coilovers (no slack in the spring as well as worked with the coilovers to get it lower.)
My post speaks truth. These coilovers do not go low without messing with the preload.
plus i never said i whip turns like im a road car
there is no function in my car. im going for form over function.
Yes i messed with the preload, but like i posted earlier. i said i also worked the coilovers (no slack in the spring as well as worked with the coilovers to get it lower.)
My post speaks truth. These coilovers do not go low without messing with the preload.
plus i never said i whip turns like im a road car
there is no function in my car. im going for form over function.
i used an air gun and compressed the springs with the desired preload. i tried to twist the collars with the springs under tension but that isnt smart.
but i still hear the shock towers hit
but i still hear the shock towers hit
how much are your springs compressed? i preloaded mine another 5mm but that didnt help much. how much can we preload the f2?
i have the same problem... i hate when the control arm is banging the **** out of the tower its very annoying. Does anyone know the preload to fix this i really dont want to cut into my tower for more clearance.
Hate to be the one to break it to you guys but.... you can't just lower you car without accommodating modification. =/
You can raise the preload, the rates will stay the same but it will feel stiffer (not sure how that works lol). This is also going to lower the life of your coilovers and its also gonna ride harsher.
The control arm is going to hit the shock towers because its so close to it. It needs that range of movement.
If it happens often and you don't want to raise it, the next option is to cut the shock towers and that will help out a lot. Might want to weld it up and do bodywork to get it to look normal. Ive seen this done and still look OEM . It can also look very apparent so if you do go through with it, make sure to know what it should look like.
Then you will also have the axles hit the frame so its all about how far your willing to go.
You can raise the preload, the rates will stay the same but it will feel stiffer (not sure how that works lol). This is also going to lower the life of your coilovers and its also gonna ride harsher.
The control arm is going to hit the shock towers because its so close to it. It needs that range of movement.
If it happens often and you don't want to raise it, the next option is to cut the shock towers and that will help out a lot. Might want to weld it up and do bodywork to get it to look normal. Ive seen this done and still look OEM . It can also look very apparent so if you do go through with it, make sure to know what it should look like.
Then you will also have the axles hit the frame so its all about how far your willing to go.
He is totally right, but i disagree with the solution to shock tower clearance. Cutting the shock tower is not the solution and i probably will never recommend the process. First of all its a very dangerous process, it is also time consuming, and you need special tools, knowledge and power to build a set of factory looking shock towers.
Some solutions to prevent the annoying knocking.
use oem(factory control arms) They provide more clearance cause of the sleeker stock shape. The aftermarket control arms tend to be a bit bulky(not saying its the same for all parts) but factory allows a tiny bit of noticeable clearance.
Using Stiffer spring rates to prevent the car from dampening more than usual. So take into consideration a slammed car, would you want it to smack the ground? i dont think so. So use stiffer springs to keep the car up.
Some solutions to prevent the annoying knocking.
use oem(factory control arms) They provide more clearance cause of the sleeker stock shape. The aftermarket control arms tend to be a bit bulky(not saying its the same for all parts) but factory allows a tiny bit of noticeable clearance.
Using Stiffer spring rates to prevent the car from dampening more than usual. So take into consideration a slammed car, would you want it to smack the ground? i dont think so. So use stiffer springs to keep the car up.
^ ur right bro.
but without cutting the towers my axles and tie rods hit the frame, they have made like grooves n **** hahah i think i will grind down the frame a little bit.
also people STAY AWAY from blox lca. i dont know how weksos and other companies sell them knowing theyre crap specially with a brand new suspension set up.
but without cutting the towers my axles and tie rods hit the frame, they have made like grooves n **** hahah i think i will grind down the frame a little bit.
also people STAY AWAY from blox lca. i dont know how weksos and other companies sell them knowing theyre crap specially with a brand new suspension set up.
Ya there are other things that can make our cars lower without cutting and banging ****. But going low sacrifices alot of things.
Like he stated post above me:
Your tierods tend to notch out the frame rail
your axles tend to run into the frame rail
On my case the axles notch away at the alternator bracket and pivot the bolt.
btw you get what you payed for.
i wanted to get decent priced coilovers, with decent ride: so far the name has out done itself, i bought 2 sets
one for me:
nothing to hide but tire:

Like he stated post above me:
Your tierods tend to notch out the frame rail
your axles tend to run into the frame rail
On my case the axles notch away at the alternator bracket and pivot the bolt.
btw you get what you payed for.
i wanted to get decent priced coilovers, with decent ride: so far the name has out done itself, i bought 2 sets

one for me:
nothing to hide but tire:

So did the eg coilovers just bolt right up? And thats how low they went? lol
My friend has a four door ef and is looking to get these but he doesn't know if they will go low enough for him ha.
My friend has a four door ef and is looking to get these but he doesn't know if they will go low enough for him ha.






