The Official EF Discussion Thread
simple... measure twice cut once!
i would take out all panels... put the cage in(loosely) measure from the floor up the bar.. from the side to the bar and find a center point... drill a hole there and then eye it out. you can always cut out more.. once you go too far tho theres no turning back. for a real clean look im sure you could find a custom sized grommet to go around the bar and make the hole any size you want as long as the grommet goes over the edges. just an idea...
i would take out all panels... put the cage in(loosely) measure from the floor up the bar.. from the side to the bar and find a center point... drill a hole there and then eye it out. you can always cut out more.. once you go too far tho theres no turning back. for a real clean look im sure you could find a custom sized grommet to go around the bar and make the hole any size you want as long as the grommet goes over the edges. just an idea...
nihkon, great picture... is that your car? or off a site? I wish i could find a used autopower bar to fit my specs b/c id like to get it coated in a different color but looks like im going to have to bite the bullet and go new. wish they would offer other finishes than black, or at least cheaper for the un-coated bar.
I have another question, it may be answered somewhere in here, but well we are on topic: I have a 91 Si, as you all know it has door mounted seat belts. After gutting the whole car I realized there is already pre drilled, with threads, holes on the passenger side. Not so lucky on the drivers side tho. My question is what is the best way of mounting a harness on the drivers side?? I know the top half can go around the autopower bar, but where can i mount the eyelet bolts for the lower half to install the harness on the drivers side? Any advice is appreciated, sorry if its confusing.
I have another question, it may be answered somewhere in here, but well we are on topic: I have a 91 Si, as you all know it has door mounted seat belts. After gutting the whole car I realized there is already pre drilled, with threads, holes on the passenger side. Not so lucky on the drivers side tho. My question is what is the best way of mounting a harness on the drivers side?? I know the top half can go around the autopower bar, but where can i mount the eyelet bolts for the lower half to install the harness on the drivers side? Any advice is appreciated, sorry if its confusing.
As for the lower mount on a harness...if you're running an aftermarket seat, you can always have the lower mount for the harness built into the seat rails. Otherwise, you can always weld in a threaded nut to the body to match the passenger side. Or (since you have eyelet bolts), you can just drill a hole through the floor pan and mount it there. Just make sure to use backing plates to help prevent having the bolts tear through the floor plan.
simple... measure twice cut once!
i would take out all panels... put the cage in(loosely) measure from the floor up the bar.. from the side to the bar and find a center point... drill a hole there and then eye it out. you can always cut out more.. once you go too far tho theres no turning back. for a real clean look im sure you could find a custom sized grommet to go around the bar and make the hole any size you want as long as the grommet goes over the edges. just an idea...
i would take out all panels... put the cage in(loosely) measure from the floor up the bar.. from the side to the bar and find a center point... drill a hole there and then eye it out. you can always cut out more.. once you go too far tho theres no turning back. for a real clean look im sure you could find a custom sized grommet to go around the bar and make the hole any size you want as long as the grommet goes over the edges. just an idea...
Thanks! Yeah, that's my car. Most people just leave the speaker grill offf completely when they put the Autopower bar in a CRX. I can't stand that look though, so I cut a hole in the grill and recovered it in vinyl that matched the interior color. As for the color of the Autopower bar...they always ship them with a thin coat of gloss black. They only paint it to help protect against rust. It always looks like *** when you get it. I'd suggest re-painting it anyway.
As for the lower mount on a harness...if you're running an aftermarket seat, you can always have the lower mount for the harness built into the seat rails. Otherwise, you can always weld in a threaded nut to the body to match the passenger side. Or (since you have eyelet bolts), you can just drill a hole through the floor pan and mount it there. Just make sure to use backing plates to help prevent having the bolts tear through the floor plan.
As for the lower mount on a harness...if you're running an aftermarket seat, you can always have the lower mount for the harness built into the seat rails. Otherwise, you can always weld in a threaded nut to the body to match the passenger side. Or (since you have eyelet bolts), you can just drill a hole through the floor pan and mount it there. Just make sure to use backing plates to help prevent having the bolts tear through the floor plan.
I didnt even think about putting the lower mounts on the seat rails. I would run a full bucket, something similar to what you have, beautiful seat by the way!
LMAO

YEAH MEASURING IS KEY. I TOOK ME ATLEAST 3 HOURS TO FIGURE OUT WHAT NEED TO BE DONE TO FIT W/ INTERIOR.
YOU ALMOST HAVE TO SEPERATE THE REAR PANELS (THE OP FROM THE BOTTOM) TO GET IT PERFECT.
IT WOULDN'T HURT TO SPRAY SOME OF THAT UNDERCARIAGE BLACK SPRAY STUFF (FORGOT WHAT IT WAS CALLED) ON THE PLATES AFTER INSTALL TO HELP PREVENT SOME WATER FROM HITTING THE BOLTS AND POSSIBLE RUSTING OUT.
If you want a roll bar get one. Really the only thing that will get effected are your rear panels.
Other then that is a nice safe addition to the EF, IMO.
The 4 hours of work will be worth it in the end
Other then that is a nice safe addition to the EF, IMO.
The 4 hours of work will be worth it in the end
Small gripe. It's been a month since I placed an order for a a/c bracket from Innovative Mounts. I've gone through two sellers. One on here and one on ebay, for neither of them to have it in stock (aka drop ship from manf).
This is fine and dandy, but I am extremely disappointed with Innovative's speed in getting a bracket made. It's like they completely ran out of them... in the winter.
I'm tired of the compressor dangling in the engine bay. It's not hot outside, but this is simply taking too long. Anyone got a hookup that can put this on the escalator?
This is fine and dandy, but I am extremely disappointed with Innovative's speed in getting a bracket made. It's like they completely ran out of them... in the winter.
I'm tired of the compressor dangling in the engine bay. It's not hot outside, but this is simply taking too long. Anyone got a hookup that can put this on the escalator?
Damn dude that sucks! I hate waiting for parts. Does someone else make the bracket your looking for? like Hasport? I don't know about a/c brackets cause all mine stuff was junk when I got it.
Steel is real I say. I'm supposed to be getting a tracking number today, but I won't hold my breath.
I have heard of a trick for cutting the rear panels for the rollbar.
- Install the bar without the interior in place.
- Remove the bar & reinstall interior
- Reinstall the main hoop
- Get scrap PVC pipe that is a larger diameter than the rollbar and slide it up where the rear supports tie-in.
- Slide the PVC down the supports to simulate where the rear members go
- When the PVC hits the interior plastic mark it with a marker
- Cutout the hole you traced in the panel and reinstall...
Personally i was too lazy to bother with the rear panels and just left it gutted instead, bear in mind it is hardly driven.
- Install the bar without the interior in place.
- Remove the bar & reinstall interior
- Reinstall the main hoop
- Get scrap PVC pipe that is a larger diameter than the rollbar and slide it up where the rear supports tie-in.
- Slide the PVC down the supports to simulate where the rear members go
- When the PVC hits the interior plastic mark it with a marker
- Cutout the hole you traced in the panel and reinstall...
Personally i was too lazy to bother with the rear panels and just left it gutted instead, bear in mind it is hardly driven.
I have heard of a trick for cutting the rear panels for the rollbar.
- Install the bar without the interior in place.
- Remove the bar & reinstall interior
- Reinstall the main hoop
- Get scrap PVC pipe that is a larger diameter than the rollbar and slide it up where the rear supports tie-in.
- Slide the PVC down the supports to simulate where the rear members go
- When the PVC hits the interior plastic mark it with a marker
- Cutout the hole you traced in the panel and reinstall...
Personally i was too lazy to bother with the rear panels and just left it gutted instead, bear in mind it is hardly driven.
- Install the bar without the interior in place.
- Remove the bar & reinstall interior
- Reinstall the main hoop
- Get scrap PVC pipe that is a larger diameter than the rollbar and slide it up where the rear supports tie-in.
- Slide the PVC down the supports to simulate where the rear members go
- When the PVC hits the interior plastic mark it with a marker
- Cutout the hole you traced in the panel and reinstall...
Personally i was too lazy to bother with the rear panels and just left it gutted instead, bear in mind it is hardly driven.




I gotta have some noise besides the motor mounts/suspension/etc.