Sounds about right, had to reuse the oem clips

 

Yeah, its not a huge deal. I have all the old stuff around somewhere, need a few oem pieces anyway so gonna get some new ones. Need to get some new hardware for the calipers as well.

Here is another dumb question to debate. On the caliper where the line bolts up to it.. there is two notches for the line to sit in-between and kind of hold it in place. Maybe b/c there type r calipers and crx lines, but it wont fit in that groove.. I can easily shave down the notches to make it wider and fit in.... but the calipers are fresh powder coat and really dont want to mess that up.. how important are those notches, anyone have any problems not running the line through it?

I feel like I have done it before and no problems, just asking the pro's! ;-)

 

When you mix and match you tend to run into stuff like that. The notches are there in order to make sure the banjo fitting gets clocked correctly. I still think the line should fit in between the notches though, perhaps the powdercoat closed the gap ever so slightly? Either way, if the position of the banjo fitting is correct when placed in between the notches, Id go ahead and make the clearance (a little file action?).

 

Yeah, I assumed mix n matching would cause some issues, that's why I was checking. probably should have done that check pre-coating but live and learn.. I used my digital caliper just to be extra **** and its less than a millimeter off! (.65) so yes, some file action should suffice! It seemed like a lot more by eye, but I think its safe to say that layer of coating will go and ill do it the right way! thanks for the response, sorry for such a tedious question!

 

Hoping to pie-cut the snot out of tallkyles charge pipes tomorrow

 

Hoping ??? no son, it WILL happen.. unless you bail on me!!

I removed like everything from my car today.. fuel lines, brake lines and all the small stuff... finished welding in my seat mounts. Now i just have to clean the inside out and it is ready for truck bed coating. mmm can't wait!

 

im looking for an ef9 rear bumper for sale in califonia hit me up

 

this guy is great cuz i feel the same way

 

Pictures of the pie cuts?!


Anyone mind sharing what fluids they run. I'm talking everything.
Oil
Brake fluid
Clutch (if you converted)
Transmission
Coolant
Any additives...

Mainly looking for Brand and specs.
A lot of different reviews on certain brands, some guys like the ATE blue brake fluid, some say use Motul, some say all the same as long as its a DOT4.
Royal purple oil reviews are hit and miss..
No real problem with some OE honda coolant, but seeing what others use.
Obviously "clutch fluid" is brake fluid, safe to use the same, say ATE fluid, in the clutch line?
Any tranny fluid preference or ones to steer clear of?
And does anyone swear by any sort of additives.. Ive never really been a fan of or used any.

 

Oil- castrol gtx or mobil1
Brake fluid- valvoline dot3
Clutch- same as brake fluid
Transmission- honda mtf
Coolant- advance auto parts
Any additives- water wetter in the coolant for the summer in my supercharged vehicle, nothing in daily.

 

Oil-mobil one oem filter
break fluid-oem honda
Clutch - cable
Trans- mtf honda
coolant- peak 50/50

No additives

 

oil mobil 1
trans gm synchromesh
brake clutch super blue
coolant cheapest stuff + deionized water.

Additives, sour diesel.

 

oh....i'll use gm synchromesh and honda mtf 50/50 in a trans that grinds. I do not have any transmissions that grind right now though

 

mobile1 10/30 full synthetic mobile1 oil filter
torco racing tranz fluid synthetic
cable tranz
valvoline dot3
peak 50/50

 

Oil - Royal Purple 20w/50 (10w/30 in my coupe)! I'm surprised how many run Mobile 1. On the street I'm sure it's fine, but on track I was burning 1/2 a quart a session!
Brake fluid - Ate Super Blue/Typ 200 (1/2 the cost of Motul...and when I ran motul, that **** was eating my brake lines and turning the fluid black. So weird)
Clutch (if you converted) - When I had it converted I used good 'ol Honda brake fluid. I use Honda in my coupe
Transmission - Redline MTF in both cars equipped with OEM ITR LSDs
Coolant - OEM Honda, no additives

I don't run any other additives in the motor oil. I really don't believe in any of that stuff. Occasionally I will run some Valvoline injector cleaner through the tank.

The only time any of your fluids REALLY matter are if you're tracking/drag racing the car. I just run basic stuff in my coupe because it only sees the street, but my brand loyalty has transferred over from what I've learned with the CRX.

 

Did someone say PIE?

 

That was fun

 

Wow guys, thanks for all the reviews/opinions. All taken into consideration.

May have to run some syncromesh on my beater.. good tip!
Where do you guys get your ATE? online.. not sure Ive seen it at any local stores.



Nice PiE!

 

Nice work !

 

Oil- Mobil 10w30
Tranny- Honda MTF
Brake Fluid- Prestone
Coolant- Prestone 50/50
Fuel- Chevron 92 Octane

 

so whats up no one knows of an eef9 rear bumper for sale in cali

 

try craigslist or the local part on market place.

there was a guy parting out a EF9 about two weeks ago on face book.

he was really proud of the parts.

But I've seen a few more on craigslist in cali that I've seen anywhere else.

 

Yeah man, check the for sale threads..

Cant believe were over 900 on that FB page.. crazy EF love. may have to make an EF decal or something! Thanks to you who joined up.. https://www.facebook.com/pages/88-91...52?ref=tn_tnmn


Not that Im doing it anytime soon. been looking at a lot of cage pictures. Why do some set-ups run all the way into the trunk area and some stop on top of the rear strut towers/wheel well arches??
So many different variations. I know different stuff is required for different forms of racing.. anyone with any cage experience care to share whats safest and correct!

 

Hey Dan. The way that my cage is set up from the main hoop bar. Instead of traditional kicker bars that go to the rear shock tower mounts with X's in the center. My rear kicker bars go all the way back following the roof passing the rear quarter glass and back down to the floor trunk. From out side you can not see the cage due to every single bar has a slight radius bend in the 4130 chromolly tubing . Then the's two X's on the upper part of the cage for support. I'll post pics when I find some better pics than crappy cell pics.

Tallkyle. Your engine bar is freaken awesome. Love the work thats been put into it. Good stuff.

 

I remember reading somewhere where it's bad practice to have them mount so far back. I'm interested though if anyone has any real info on it.