haha nick you should be a model. And lookin forward to some go pro's

 

the place nick puts his pry bar is the place i wedge my chisel when i jack the suspension up....i'm gonna try the pry bar thing..looks like it would work great. thanks buddy!

 

favorite part of nicks pry bar method photo, his shoes match the floor!
-good method to try, might help preserve the powder coated parts.


I got real used to having a lift for a few years, cant say Ive never used bricks though. Even with jack stands Ill always throw the tires under the car as a "just in case" before I roll under it. Friend of mine lost his father to a car on just a jack loosing pressure and crushing him. I never rely on just the jack. never.

My worst scare under a car on stands was removing a steering rack and sub-frame. Loosened the bolts to what I thought was still holding a few threads just to get it loose... well when I got to the last bolt it dropped down and sorta knocked the wind out of me leaving me stuck with this thing across my chest.. couldnt move it because the pinion shaft coming out of the rack had gotten stuck and I couldnt push it up. Waited until the GF showed up and yelled at her until she understood "get in the car, stick your hand in the hole, and move the shaft sticking up!"
That's my idiot story.

 

Am I wrong in believing that since I have an '88 CRX I should be looking for only an '88-'89 CRX cluster if I want it to plug and play?

I've been looking for a USDM '88-'89 CRX Si cluster (or at least the speedometer) and I can't find one for the life of me.

 

i been using this ball joint tool from harbor freight which looks like the honda tool and so far so good no ripped ball joints for 7 bucks it works but you gotta lube the threads on the tool or it ****s up prematurely.

im going to try nicks pry bar method which is way simpler but just adding my 2 cents on what i use.

 

yup slight difference in plugs between the 88-89 and 90-91 clusters slight though not a hard thing to convert just looks for the cluster diagrams between years. wait i think some 89's have the plugs more like the 90-91 cluster could be wrong though.

 

IIRC the cluster shapes are slightly off too? Or is that just the cowl/bonnet that covers them? One being more square and one being more rounded at the top.

I'll likely stick to just waiting to find what I'm looking for.

Anyone ever done an Si speedo into an HF cluster? Hoping I can retain my little "economy driving indicator" if possible, when I swap. It's still going strong with the Si transmission, but I admit I don't really know how the indicator is wired or anything either (and I have no desire to make it a normal shift light or such).

 

Yeah I had a friend that would never listen about jack stands.

Had her mini cooper up on a scissor jack.

Wind blew it Dropped the mini on her face.

The way she was laying it crushed her chin.

Then neighbor heard the noise. Lifted the front of the mini and drug her out.

I will never get under a car without jackstands.

On a more positive note I might have to get a big *** pry par and one of those tools from harbor freight.

 

Alright, need some input on tricks of the trade, probably just some **** I've never thought of before.

I need to swap my headgasket, leak between cylinders 3 and 4 determined in a leakdown test. I already have a head gasket and new set of ARP head studs on standby, just need to pick up a new torque wrench as I don't trust mine.

What are some of those things you guys "just do" every time you replace the headgasket? Use any special products/sealers that just work but aren't usually found in the general knowledge banks? Any "tricks of the trade"?

I've done many head gaskets and other subsequent motor work, just curious as to what you guys do. I often find little tricks that have me scratching my head wondering why I never thought of it before. So what are your tricks?

 

Ive had some pretty shitty old head gaskets that didnt want to come off.. just be careful scraping the old one off. Always replace the head studs, as I see you plan too... I have also herd of re-torquing them about 1,000 miles after the first install, should probably do that. Might wanna replace the belt and pump while you got it all apart too..

My buddy always writes some funny message on the pistons when building a motor..

Hahaha, always a stab at another buddy!

Goodluck with the project.

 

I don't use any products or sealers with a head gasket, but Sauce is right, be careful scraping the old stuff off too hard. I know the d-series guys have tricks like using the newer d-series layered gaskets, but when I had the bottom end rebuilt in my wagovan, I took off the layered gasket and just put a good 'ol A6 gasket on. ALSO, put it on the right way. Sounds stupid, but I had a buddy do this on a brand new GSR motor from Honda. He didn't mess anything up, but it was a mess. Haha

The only other tip that helps me is marking the cam gear (s) and belt so I get the timing correct when I put it together. I put a belt on one tooth off and while it won't totally damage anything, the car will run like ****.

 

IF you aren't planning on replacing the timing belt, then you can get away with not removing the crank pulley/lower timing cover. Mark the belt after you set the motor to TDC, remove the exhaust mani, intake mani support, and you'll be fine to pull it off like that. I always put copper gasket spray when I install my new headgaskets, it helps to seal it better.

 

ok 94-01 brake lines DONOT work on an ef, does anyone know who sells earls line and has them instock, inline four list them, but i know nick has mentioned they screwed him over so i rather shop elsewhere.

 

inline four has always been good to me and they have the parts u need. two good reasons to order from them.

 

Want me to walk in pick em up and ship em to you?

 

Try fastbrakes.com. That's where I get my lines.

If you guys want to support inline4, that's your prerogative. In not here to judge.

 

from my experience i got what i needed without any problems from inline four. i did get a harness from Rywire that had pins reversed... a lot of people support him.

...but i still bought another harness from him again. the second one was fine. mistakes happen.

 

i'm using 98 ITR russels braided lines on my hatch...they work great...they dont bolt to anything though.

 

The rears are too short

 

Haha. Nice jab at Rywire for absolutely no reason.

And mistakes? You call Inline4 ripping my father off and driving his freshly swapped car around for personal business and racking up 100s of miles a mistake? GTFO with those comments of yours. You don't even know the story...well, now you do.

 

what the hell are you talking about?

 

My GTFO comment was too harsh. But my situation with inline 4 was completely different than any mistake a company made on a product you purchased.

 

ah I got it now, you're pissed about the fact you took your car in and they drove it around after they finished what they did. Understandable, no need to be on rywires nut sack, electrical is serious business. I know you didn't miss the post about how NA Matt's car nearly caught fire because of his mistake. Just as you track your car, the slightest over compensation could possibly be disastrous. Mistakes are mistakes period. Unless you are getting paid to represent Rywire, idk why anyone would back up a company so proudly when others are having issues with them... o0o maybe because things happen to some but not to all. Anyway point being **** happens, whether intentional or unintentional, lets remain equal here, because not everyone has bad experiences.

 

just got back from Carolina Motorsports Park. great NASA event as always and about to hit the bed

beautiful car i saw...phone actually taking decent pics



an 2 old farts drive these

 

Now now... lets not let this get out of hand. I think Nicks example of them knowingly racking mileage on his car v.s a product error are a little different.
I doubt Rywire intentionally did anything on purpose and I would bet that he would clean up any messes hes responsible for. The company mentioned must have known that adding a couple 100 miles to a car being worked on is a little overkill.. either way.. Im sure ordering a part through them is fine. How bad can they really F that up.


Back to the brake lines...
Inline does make some nice stainless lines.. not sure on them though, dont really wanna find out the hard way either. I like the clear cover over the stainless....feel like it adds a little protection. Main reason why I may go with russell lines over earls.

Boosted- JHPUSA has a sale on goodridge lines.