Best benefit of the wilwoods = CHEAP PADS!

 

anyone want to put a bucket seat in your EF? i have a rail that will work for you!!!! MEGA RARE EF RAIL WITH SIDEMOUNTS NOMYGOD

https://honda-tech.com/forums/sale-10/everything-must-go-sale-im-broke-something-everyone-i-promise-2974120/

 

Good info redzc, I have milled 23T brackets as well, I didnt realize that the nsx calipers would bolt right up and use the same pad. Ill have to keep my eyes open now.. thanks! That is pretty sexy!haha

Can you spill a little more info Nick!? Not that Im swapping my set-up just curious as to how cheap! haha, I remember paying a decent amount for good type-r pads. What about rotors? and the wilwoods use an 11inch rotor correct?

Anyone running wilwood rears as well?
And anyone ever use the "speed bleeders"? dont know if Ive asked before. just getting ready to order brake lines and wonder how well they work.
Sorry.. all this brake talk gets me going!

 

there are a Lot of good pads for most wilwoods under 60 bucks...


i'll probably go that route eventually..but i've actually been using used pads.. get em for 40 shipped usually. helps with trying out lots of pad brands/styles..

 

speaking of brakes...took a friend for a ride today and did several pulls and hard braking...then brake fade like a ****. smoke coming from the pads. Duralast Golds ain't doing too well

 

YUP. cheap semi mettalic pads are semi awesome. Mid level pads suck

 

Hot sauce, I don't like "speed breeders". I like "bro breeders" better, that is when you have a buddy come over and do it manually. Lol. Daily driven car on dot3, I will speed bleed. Track car, no sir.

 

Didnt think they were very safe, thank you sir.. Ill stick to the bro bleeding! hasn't failed yet.

What is the most preferred pad for you track junkies if you dont mind sharing?

 

Wrong on so many levels.....

 

my favorite pads ever so far out of a half dozen or more tried are Cobalt xr3 (i think thats what they were). they lasted, not joking, 30 trackdays.. or more.. i could still use them (barely into the big rivet, still 1/4'' left). amazing bite, but MAN THEY WILL RUST YOU OUT.

then i like hawk blues...very similar.
then i like ferrodo 3000s
then ferrodo 2500s

then raybestos st43.. or maybe those are best. cant remember. wasnt taking notes then. haha

then, THE CHEAPEST SEMI-METTALIC PADS YOU CAN BUY. pretty good, and always have a set of them for backup pads, or street pads. seriously.

oh, and i saw speedbleeders not close, dude didnt check his brakes before getting on track, and had NOTHING , went straight off track and flipped ***-over-nose. no joke. happened at our event , west-michigan-Honda-meet 5, in 2005.

 

hahahahahaha. stupid phone. i couldn't sleep for crap last night. obviously wasn't proof reading either. wow, or maybe i was adding a japanese touch to it. wait, did i go there again..

 

this is what i am on now. i think they are a very good transition pad from the hp+. also for what it is worth, a user on here used them on his daily driver sometime back. lol.

 

Figured it was an auto correct issue, pretty funny one too

 

yeah, in that case i am a speed breeder and will never bro breed. i just want to make that clear. lol.

 

Haaha, I assumed type o.. the Japanese touch does make it funny though!

Good list of pads there.. thanks man.

 

I always use a friend to do brakes. It never fails that I have to go completely around the car twice to get a good pedal...

 

i always am stuck doing it myself, unless im at the track. the way i do it is....


get 18-ish inch long clear hose that fits on bleeders. put hose as straight up as possible, into a old water bottle. i usually jam water bottle up by strut somewhere, higher than the bleeders, so air has to go straight up, fluid stays at caliper.

crack em open, and leave em open (you can do all 4 at same time, or just one, this way)


hop in car...give pedal slow half-pushes (dont bottom out, or you can kill seals on master)

do it a bit, then hop out and tap master cylinder, fill it up, etc . tap all the calipers, knock bubbles out, etc.

do it a bit more. close em up, feel pedal, fire car up, feel pedal again, it'll be rock solid. haha

reason this works so well is the open-close-open-close method takes forever, takes two dudes, and you wouldnt believe how much air comes out on the upstroke of the pedals sometimes! (whenever i have someone to pump pedals, i watch all real quick, seeing when air stops coming out.)

 

Wow that sounds pretty legit may have to try that wen I do my brakes

 

I remember seeing this happen. the guy got on the track and headed down the first straight. he missed the braking zone and pulled a dukes of hazzard over a walk way, flew a good 20-30 feet, and endo'd right before a heavily wooded tree line. super clean black sohc turbo crx reduced to scrap. seeing dude walk away from that is the reason I have a roll bar. I have pics somewhere, I'll see if I can dig them up

If I remember right a brand new rsx ended up in the ditch that year too

 

Aren't brakes the first thing that you subconsciously 'check' when you hop in the car? I dont understand how anyone could hop in the car, take it full speed down a straight, the whole time not realizing his brakes aren't working.

As soon as I get in the car, I mash the brake pedal. It's always been an instant thing. Mash the brake and the clutch then start the car - feel brake pedal go down slightly after startup - notice that it is still firm.

redzc- you should try taping a magnet to the water bottle with electrical tape. Then you could just stick it on the fender and know it's not gonna fall while you pump. This sounds like a really good method. I'm going to have to give it a whirl when I get the crx running again and swap the 15/16th's master in.

speaking of which, didn't you guys tell me to get a DA reservoir for this 91 EX master cylinder?

 

Stopping.... it's the only thing that any car NEEDS to do!!!

 

magnet on my brake fluid bottles is a GREAT idea. doing it.

with the DA reservoir/EX master, i'm not sure why you need to....i'm just running EX ones on all our EFs that come through our shop.

 

I mean, I'd just reuse the Si reservoir from my 91 Crx if I can. No need to spend money sounds good to me. Can I just reuse my current reservoir?

 

Awesome thread. Can't wait to drive my CRX again someday.

 

i think next year i'm gonna run separate rotors and race only pads vs dual duty pads