The Official EF Discussion Thread
i didn't tell you because i just assumed i had missed something, now i guess i am not the only one.
since doing that to the old hatch though i can tell you i know of about 10 different ways to do it better that involve less risk of leaking and less bullshit adaptors.
since doing that to the old hatch though i can tell you i know of about 10 different ways to do it better that involve less risk of leaking and less bullshit adaptors.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Land of the free, whoever told you that is your enemy
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RickyGD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm going to sell my Fit and get a another Crx so I can "Fit" in again.
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Best idea eva! Makes hella sense!!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Best idea eva! Makes hella sense!!!
Yeah man, no need to be so harsh. It's impossible to tell over the internet why you were having the problems you did, usually problems like leaks and such are due to installation error. I know chase ran this setup in his old car for over a year and has also done countless setups like this on other people's cars with no problems to date.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RickyGD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm going to sell my Fit and get a another Crx so I can "Fit" in again.
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isnt that the catch phrase of that thing anyway?
The Fit Is GoNE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>isnt that the catch phrase of that thing anyway?
The Fit Is GoNE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yeah there is better ways to do it, but look at wat EFs have as a hardline, not ****. Just a fitting and then a immediate bend. Tube nut, Tube sleeve is the most reliable and thats what i do on EG, EK, DC cars and it works great. But u need at LEAST 2 inches of straight hardline to put the fittings on and flare. Sorry it didnt work out for you, it could be installation error too. Mine is still working with the new owner of my black car. DroppedCrxsi, CrxBart, K20EF8, NickRPS...i know all these guys used the fitting and its still working flawlessly...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sh!tsWEAK! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah man, no need to be so harsh. It's impossible to tell over the internet why you were having the problems you did, usually problems like leaks and such are due to installation error. I know chase ran this setup in his old car for over a year and has also done countless setups like this on other people's cars with no problems to date.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not being harsh. being honest.
and i hope taht anyone who looks at that thread and this looks into the swagelok fittings. chase included. they saved me alot of time and headaches. just bought one 5/16 swage to 1/4 npt female fitting, a 1/4 npt male to -6 90degree bulkhead fittin and i was set.
looks really nice just having the -an hose connected to the firewall and it doesn't leak like that tubenut adaptor did.
not being harsh. being honest.
and i hope taht anyone who looks at that thread and this looks into the swagelok fittings. chase included. they saved me alot of time and headaches. just bought one 5/16 swage to 1/4 npt female fitting, a 1/4 npt male to -6 90degree bulkhead fittin and i was set.
looks really nice just having the -an hose connected to the firewall and it doesn't leak like that tubenut adaptor did.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF8kid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not everyone wants to take out their dash and heater core.
On the car in my avatar i have a more ballin fuel line approach </TD></TR></TABLE>
thus my love for the swagelok's
all you have to do is cut off the oe flare, take teh tub nut off, deburr the tube, install the swagelok.
the swagelok flares teh end of the tube as it tightens (swages the tube) and is good for somewhere aroud 200psi. from there you could just use an earls npt to -6 or npt to braided hose fitting and voila, your write-up but without the headache of the tube nut. same overall cost too.
for real, check them out. all of tehir fitting are offered in stainless so they will hold up just as well as the aluminum earls/xrp/aeroquip
On the car in my avatar i have a more ballin fuel line approach </TD></TR></TABLE>
thus my love for the swagelok's
all you have to do is cut off the oe flare, take teh tub nut off, deburr the tube, install the swagelok.
the swagelok flares teh end of the tube as it tightens (swages the tube) and is good for somewhere aroud 200psi. from there you could just use an earls npt to -6 or npt to braided hose fitting and voila, your write-up but without the headache of the tube nut. same overall cost too.
for real, check them out. all of tehir fitting are offered in stainless so they will hold up just as well as the aluminum earls/xrp/aeroquip
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF8kid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Give me a direct link to the part and ill put it on my writeup
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swagelok specialty fitting to female 1/4 npt:
http://www.swagelok.com/search...0-7-4
earl's male 1/4 npt -6 hose
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
and a brief video showing how the fitting works
http://www.swagelok.com/FittingInstallVideo.htm
http://www.swagelok.com/search...0-7-4
earl's male 1/4 npt -6 hose
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
and a brief video showing how the fitting works
http://www.swagelok.com/FittingInstallVideo.htm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that thing is badass! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats wat i was gonna say! Thanks Kyle, updating thread now.
Thats wat i was gonna say! Thanks Kyle, updating thread now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kylefakesi-r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">beats the hell out of trying to trim that tube nut for sure</TD></TR></TABLE>
x100000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000
and you install the swagelok in the cabin, right? my dash is already out.
or does it fit on the factory tube nut?
x100000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000
and you install the swagelok in the cabin, right? my dash is already out.
or does it fit on the factory tube nut?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchMo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EF'ers helping other EF'ers is what its all about.</TD></TR></TABLE>
at first i thought he was just bitching him out, then he totally made a great suggestion for his writeup.
great stuff
at first i thought he was just bitching him out, then he totally made a great suggestion for his writeup.
great stuff
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and you install the swagelok in the cabin, right? my dash is already out.
or does it fit on the factory tube nut? </TD></TR></TABLE>
sir if you could please read my <FONT SIZE="4">updated writeup...</FONT>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1527379
thatd be great.
Thanks guys.
or does it fit on the factory tube nut? </TD></TR></TABLE>
sir if you could please read my <FONT SIZE="4">updated writeup...</FONT>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1527379
thatd be great.
Thanks guys.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">x10000000000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000
and you install the swagelok in the cabin, right? my dash is already out.
or does it fit on the factory tube nut? </TD></TR></TABLE>
out in the engine bay where the hardline comes throught the firewall and would normally go into the fuel filter.
remove the fuel filter and all that stuff, slide the factory tube nut back, using a mini pipe cutter take teh flare off the end of the tube. with a small fill deburr the end of the tube. throw the factory tube nut away and install teh swagelok that i listed and the earl's fitting that i listed. those 2 components replace teh related components that chase had listed in his original writeup. the ease of install comparitive is incredible and there is less risk of leaks dude to the style of fitting.
and you install the swagelok in the cabin, right? my dash is already out.
or does it fit on the factory tube nut? </TD></TR></TABLE>
out in the engine bay where the hardline comes throught the firewall and would normally go into the fuel filter.
remove the fuel filter and all that stuff, slide the factory tube nut back, using a mini pipe cutter take teh flare off the end of the tube. with a small fill deburr the end of the tube. throw the factory tube nut away and install teh swagelok that i listed and the earl's fitting that i listed. those 2 components replace teh related components that chase had listed in his original writeup. the ease of install comparitive is incredible and there is less risk of leaks dude to the style of fitting.


