I have a question for you folks...

What if there was a harness out there for our cars that was a universal race harness.... Obd1 plugs on it, milspec grade wire, decent quality heatshrink for covering, it would run from the engine straight to the ecu with obd1 plugs on it. Basically a race harness with basic plugs attached. There then would be about 7-10 wires that would need to be wired to the ecu (by the installer) for power, grounds, fuel, cluster functions, exc... It would be basically a new harness to get rid of the old crap brittle worn engine harness. Ez to follow instructions, and jumpers if you had a different distributor or injectors...
Question 1, what would yall pay for such a thing?
2, would you be nervous to install it? Tapping 7-10 wires at the old ecu plugs with nice color instructions??

This would be nice for a wire tuck or race car... Nice universal harness, thin, stealthy, NEW....

Give me input!
-Ryan

 

Great idea, but i think it'll boil down to cost.

 

What would you pay?

 

cost is theo nly issue there. I can't afford to dump $1500 on an engine harness nor will I ever do such a thing on my 17 year old Honda. I spent $220 on a new Si harness and modified it to my liking with obd1 plugs instead. If something like you suggest were sub $500 I would most likely buy in on it.

 

ballpark 500 bux No bulkhead plug, no expensive raychem loom, just good unmarked, thick wall, flexible heat shrink

 

i'd say you'd sell a lot at $500!!!

 

$500 seems reasonable. You could also have them be somewhat custom for a little bit more? What i mean is, if they want obd0 plugs instead, or obd2. Just a thought, but u would have to draw the line somewhere since im sure u want to mass produce them quickly/easily if u ever went thru with it.

 

500 is a good price ryan!

redzc i saw that picture and was stoked for you! congrats on the article too!

 

right on guys . And I agree that's a badass Rex for under 2k!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rywire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ballpark 500 bux No bulkhead plug, no expensive raychem loom, just good unmarked, thick wall, flexible heat shrink</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would pay only 75 bucks, nothing more nothing less

How is it coming? Its going to be badass

 

First startup of my turbo setup!
quick rundown:
Z6 w/ 10:1 comp /forged pistons /head work /etc.
14B w/ HF mani running open housing for the time being until I order my http://www.weirtech.ca DP flange and setup 3"



Sad note- did a compression check and #1 is around 150 it's because of the headgasket. I had to drill out holes for coolant and I guess it's leaking in that cyl.

Anybody have a suggestion for me?
1) getting a headgasket to match the coolant holes in my KMS Blockgaurd
or 2) do you think I should remove the blockgaurd all together?

 

screw your block guard, they do more harm then help.

 

if your block guard was installed correctly, there shouldnt be any issue at all. it should not be flush with the top of the cylinders. As long as it is down a little bit(not sure on the specific depth), coolant will get to the top of it and flow through the holes in your head gasket just fine. It might be a tad slower on efficiency, but it works. You can expect some higher temps though. It's fine as long as you don't have a/c IMO. I have a GE block guard in my built LS and with a/c off I cruise at about 190 degrees and with it on, I cruise at around 205 and sitting still for any period of time it will start to overheat with my 92-00 mishimoto civic radiator. I know a full size would solve the problem, I just dont want to. lol. I'm going to try and direct more air flow into the radiator instead.

 

the block guards are junk, they tweak cylinder walls and are dont do **** to help a motor.

 

Cops are gay!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the block guards are junk, they tweak cylinder walls and are don't do **** to help a motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yea!!

if u want strong clyinders buy darton sleeves,block guard is a half *** way of doing things.

 

OKay, time to share I picked up Red's B16 SC and will be doing up the 89 Civic I have with the early B16 swap.

What I need to know now, is, since JR only had them CARB approved on teh 99-up civic's w B16's, what else do I need to do to make my SC b16 as close to the 99 spec as possible? Think it may be better to have the b16 BAR'd first by itself then add the sc?

thanks in advance guys.

 

I wouldn't worry about the jrsc, just ref the motor. The chargers have carb eo#'s anyway don't they? If the motor is reffed and the charger is clearly carb exempt I don't see any reason why they would send you to ref

 

Dont bother trying to ref the b16 with the sc. The carb number issued for the sc is for the installation in a 99-00 SI ONLY. It does not apply to your chassis therefore invalid. At a mom and pop smog shop, i doubt they would hassle you. Typically all they wanna see is a carb # in general.

 

What about if I did the update to 99 spec? That should work right?

What would be needed?

 

Convert to OBD2 and run all 99Si smog equipment.

Man, just got a new laptop from work. Ridiculously baller computer

 

So how does it work in cali if they want to search your car? I was pulled over last night. The cop asked about my previous drug conviction, then proceeded to ask about searching my car. I told him sure as long as you have a warrant or probable cause, none of which you have. He then said he would radio for a K9 unit to check my car. I waited like 10min. He then came back to my car, and said the k9 was on the way, and asked my why my eyes were so red. He then asked if I ever had a dui, and then proceeded to administer a field sobriety test. I passed, and he let me go. K9 never came. It was probably just a bluff. It cracks me up they think they can trample on your civil rights like that. He had no right to search my car, but since I had a prior, he felt like he should.

 

I've had my hood popped because of a burnt out rear license plate bulb back up in NorCal . In actuality, my plate was lighting up just fine.

I understand the logic of the argument/waste of time, but the thing is if you've nothing to hide then you've nothing to lose.

 

Bart - you stuck to your guns and had it done properly, there was no probable cause and he did not have your permission. K9 is a typical bluff nowadays, otherwise they'll see if there is anything else to hold you longer for, just to make you wait.

1989Civicsi - what will I need for the update? I know i would have needed the manifold, but that will be replaced by the SC manifold, so that part will be done. 99Si ECU would be helpful, 2 O2's? Anything engine wise that I will need to tap and add sensors?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how does it work in cali if they want to search your car? I was pulled over last night. The cop asked about my previous drug conviction, then proceeded to ask about searching my car. I told him sure as long as you have a warrant or probable cause, none of which you have. He then said he would radio for a K9 unit to check my car. I waited like 10min. He then came back to my car, and said the k9 was on the way, and asked my why my eyes were so red. He then asked if I ever had a dui, and then proceeded to administer a field sobriety test. I passed, and he let me go. K9 never came. It was probably just a bluff. It cracks me up they think they can trample on your civil rights like that. He had no right to search my car, but since I had a prior, he felt like he should. </TD></TR></TABLE>
im pretty sure in cali all they need is probable cause(which your drug-related prior would qualify as)...i understand it sucks but everyone i know with similar priors has had to deal with a certain amount of harassment from cops