<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickrps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I still don't get why everyone wants to run the poly bushing stuff??? OEM rubber or spherical bearing bushings FTW. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why don't you like the poly bushings? I wouldn't use them on a daily car, but from what I've noticed, they tighten up the car a bit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chronicsinners &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My rear trailing arm bushings are shot and need replacement. I am tempted to go spherical but the prices i have seen are pretty outrageous. I also see that summit sells the prothane trailing arm busings seperate for $30, but you need to resuse the stock "pins". Suggestions on what to do/buy? How much are stock replacements? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I have the poly ones. It sucks getting the rubber off of the old pin, and you need a press to put the pin in the poly bushing. I'm not so sure the poly bushing allows the arm to move properly. It took Kyle and I and a 4' pry bar to get the toe alignment right. If you use them, I would suggest getting and adjustable compensator arm to ease the toe adjustment.

 

Spherical and stock ftw. Maybe mugen if you have extra cash and no kids, lol.

Plus for some reason, I feel a 17 year old car that is too tightened up may lead to problems elsewhere and if it isn't a dedicated track car, that would just be annoying.

Vega - you have some dood's hands in your pictures. j/p

Streewerkz - is the leaky cam seal that causes that oil loss in the pics? How can you tell it's not the VTEC solenoid?

 

I would assume it's the cam seal too. Mine leaked there when I got it too. I used the billet one from jhpusa

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why don't you like the poly bushings? I wouldn't use them on a daily car, but from what I've noticed, they tighten up the car a bit.

I have the poly ones. It sucks getting the rubber off of the old pin, and you need a press to put the pin in the poly bushing. I'm not so sure the poly bushing allows the arm to move properly. It took Kyle and I and a 4' pry bar to get the toe alignment right. If you use them, I would suggest getting and adjustable compensator arm to ease the toe adjustment. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you mean an adjustable arm like this:

http://www.mfactoryusa.com/ind...D=115 (incase the stolen image link goes down)

 

use the energy suspension bushings anywhere on the car, EXCEPT for the rear trailing arms...they will cause more problems due to them binding and not being able to move they way the suspension was designed to move. but other than that, the ES bushings are great

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chronicsinners &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you mean an adjustable arm like this:

http://www.mfactoryusa.com/ind...D=115 (incase the stolen image link goes down)</TD></TR></TABLE>

I run those! Need to get my rear camber dialed in this week for my next track day in 2 weeks.

I'm not a fan of poly bushings due to the fact that HC buddies and track buddies advise against them. My pops has the rta poly bushings and they are noisy...not a fan. I have no personal experience with them other than in my rear LCA's. I track factory bushings and they work well for me (as this is what I chose when rebuilding my suspension due to the advice mentioned above). You can search for problems with poly bushings all over the net and on h-t. I'm too lazy to do it at work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickrps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have no personal experience with them other than in my rear LCA's. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Whats lcas do you run?


Im trying to decide on new oem ones with new bushings or some aftermarkets.

 

new oem &gt; aftermarket crap...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted Chemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Whats lcas do you run?


Im trying to decide on new oem ones with new bushings or some aftermarkets.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I run the Skunks...and would have purchased the MFactory's if I knew about them at the time. The only other options I looked at were Omni Powers, but a HC buddy blew out one of the poly bushings on his personal track car after only a few track days.

My vote is for the mFactory units.

 

Stock bushings are fine, but ill tell you es ones work fine too... Ive had them for years, no squeeks, no issues whatsoever!

 

I bought some Blox LCA's a while back and they have been working out great. someone in the sponsor marketplace has them for only $90 shipped

 

mugen trailing arm bushings are 114 for the pair.

the prothane and es ones are not the greatest since the pin can easily slide side to side in them.

spherical bushings are better since they can pivot easier. polys are cheaper though...for now.

suja1 (same company that makes the clutch line kits for kswaps) is coming out with a 90 durometer oe style spherical bushing set. my conversation with jason regarding them and their availablitly/pricing was very promising. he had a few prototype sets at teh shop that were going to get installed into the shop cars for ride testing.

 

Ok guys, I've got yet another problem with the crx. this is one I have never encountered before. Yesterday when I got near my house(about a mile away), when I try to gently accelerate I felt this hard jumping, bouncing, jerking(however you want to think of it). It doesnt do it at idle or when I rev it sitting still. Only under a load. I, at first thought it was the spark plugs. Removed them and they looked ok, but I changed them anyway. Took it for a drive and it did fine. perfect. even felt a little more powerful. Once it got warmed up and driven for about 4 miles, it started the jumping/bouncing again. I brought it back home, jacked it up and checked the suspension components and they are all tight and there is no unusual contact anywhere. the motor runs fine, there is nothing loose in the suspension. But it feels like its coming from the drive front wheel.

What do you think it is and what should I do to test this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rywire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock bushings are fine, but ill tell you es ones work fine too... Ive had them for years, no squeeks, no issues whatsoever! </TD></TR></TABLE>
including the trailing arms?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16CRXT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What do you think it is and what should I do to test this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok wait, is it drivetrain or suspension related?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ok wait, is it drivetrain or suspension related?</TD></TR></TABLE>...or electrical?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16CRXT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Vega what engine mounts are you using? they look stock. I would love to have some rubber bushings on my swap. screw poly for a DD.</TD></TR></TABLE>


its the older model HCP adapter kit.
you can atill retain the OEM mounts with it. if u want them u can have them for $100 after i get my AZ mounts.
I only used the poly insert for the rear mount.


i don't have the vibraton problems hear a lot of people complaining about, but i'm selling them just because I want something blingerier

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smokinsax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...or electrical?</TD></TR></TABLE>


...or fuel?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ok wait, is it drivetrain or suspension related?</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what I'm trying to figure out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16CRXT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats what I'm trying to figure out.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL. You gotta narrow it down at least! Im gonna say its a drivetrain/engine issue.

Shall we go with what feels like a misfire under load?

 

my initial impression was that it is a misfire. replaced the plugs and it still does it. It is not all the time either. It is a very harsh jumping as if I were driving with a square wheel. lol,

 

loose suspension component? busted cv joint on axle?

 

axles look good. none of the suspension is loose.

 

jerking @ low rpms?


I would guess fuel pump


does it feel like it lags when going up hills

 

sounds like an ignition or fuel problem to me.