<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16CRXT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">axles look good. none of the suspension is loose.</TD></TR></TABLE>

inside the axle-like one od the three rollers gave out.

i have repaired similar concers with bad tps but that is more a "brick wall when accelerating" type concern

 

Check your rotor in the distributor, it could be loose and causing the misfiring! Are you throwing a cel?

 

oh yeah oh yeah


didn't someone have this problem before and they changed thier igniter


but when this happen to my last two civic it was always either the distributor or the fuel pump

jerking @ low rpms with lil accelaration
going up hills felt a slight lag
would cut off randomly while driving or sitting @ idle

...speaking of which my teg does all that stuff right now

idles off after a hard drive

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jerking @ low rpms?


I would guess fuel pump


does it feel like it lags when going up hills</TD></TR></TABLE>

nah. It jerks no matter the rpm. it just has to be during acceleration. and it feels more like I'm hitting a series of bumps in the road.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mekanism &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check your rotor in the distributor, it could be loose and causing the misfiring! Are you throwing a cel?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Someone else told me it might be the ELD. Is that in the oil pressure switch? I've always got a code for the VSS and the CYP. I'm returning my distributor to DK this week and hopefully I'll get a good one this time. No idea why the VSS code is there. the speedo works fine.but since Those are the only codes that I have been getting recently, I havent checked. I'll check them again in the morning.

I'll take the cap off too so I can check the button. I've got a feelings its the distributor though. I'm gonna borrow someones ls dist and test this theory. Does anyone have one they'd sell at a decent price? OBD1 LS.

 

CYP code will definitely cause drivability problems. The engine doesn't know where the cylinders are at in their rotation and will fire the plugs at the wrong time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16CRXT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've always got a code for the VSS and the CYP.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr_CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CYP code will definitely cause drivability problems. The engine doesn't know where the cylinders are at in their rotation and will fire the plugs at the wrong time.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yup. DK dizzys dont seem to be doing too well lately.

My vote is on the dizzy.

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/oc_ed/2287903126/
The one that died. Looking for another one...

 

what happen to it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Yup. DK dizzys dont seem to be doing too well lately.

My vote is on the dizzy. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm on my 4th dk dizzy and still need to send one back. They go out so often I keep a spare one in the crx at all times.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mekanism &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm on my 4th dk dizzy and still need to send one back. They go out so often I keep a spare one in the crx at all times. </TD></TR></TABLE>

WTF happen to DK? They seemed to be thee place to go for a new one, and now i hear nothing but bad **** about them. Bad deal

 

I'm pretty sure DK is the same company that Autozone and Kragen buy their dizzies from. I remember buying one from kragen and it being the same manufacturer. I dont recall the manufacturers name but I think its the same.

 

dk is a reseller for rich porter... they ALL suck, the only trusted one is oem, but I suggest like mechanism, just buy 2....

And from the last page... I have prothane trailing arm bushings(they were already on the disc swap I purchased)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmjunky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.flickr.com/photos/oc_ed/2287903126/
The one that died. Looking for another one...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Story?

Btw, if anyone has a source on a EF9 SiR rear bumper let me know .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr_CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CYP code will definitely cause drivability problems. The engine doesn't know where the cylinders are at in their rotation and will fire the plugs at the wrong time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, thats whats I've read, when I first got the code, but it would come on (before) and effect nothing. It would still run fine. No smoke or anything. Its not smoking when it does the jumping now either.DK finally gave me a return code, so once I get an oem to borrow from a friend, it will go back.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 408wdy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what happen to it</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chronicsinners &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you mean an adjustable arm like this:

http://www.mfactoryusa.com/ind...D=115 (incase the stolen image link goes down)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, but it's part # MF-CHA-03 It's for toe adjustment, not camber.

 

Does anyone have an OEM LS distributor they would sell me for a decent price? Not above $75. When I get the new DK from them, I'm just gonna resell it on ebay or something...or maybe keep it in the car as the backup.

It doesnt make much sense for it to be the dist. though because the car has plenty of power and still pulls good while it does this harsh jumping. I'm gonna take it to a shop near my house soon and get them to run through the gears on a lift.

 

Are you getting any codes? Did you check the driveline/axles? Is the engine actually jumpy, or does it feel that way from in the car? Did you check your mounts?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RockinthEFhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not really sure how that is possible do you have more information on this?</TD></TR></TABLE>


No, I don't have any more info. Why wouldn't it be possible? All you need is mounts with rubber bushings.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16CRXT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Vega what engine mounts are you using? they look stock. I would love to have some rubber bushings on my swap. screw poly for a DD.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Me too, but there are very few options.

-Chris

 

what are the main differences in poly and rubber inserts and which aftermarket mounts use rubber/poly inserts??

 

also any complaints about Innovative motor mounts. I just found some brand new for $170


Steel vs Billet


dicsuss!

 

I run the medium grade innnovative mounts...they're cool. I don't know what else to say really besides they work.

Steel vs. aluminum? Well, I liken it to the road bike frame argument. Aluminum will not give signs of wear and just crack...steel will not. That's all I know. I only went with the innovative mounts because I don't like those shiny Hasport mounts.

 

pictures of your engine bay agian please??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pictures of your engine bay agian please?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yay Rywire...


and

and

 

no wiper motor?