The Official EF Discussion Thread
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nickrps »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Welcome to the club. I'd like to try a staggered set-up with 15x8 225/45/15's up front. Fender flares may be in the cards for me in '08...I need to do some searching on who makes them for ef/ed. </TD></TR></TABLE>
broseph. find a mchine shop that has a metal massager like the ones they use to do the gas tanks on the chopper shows.
Welcome to the club. I'd like to try a staggered set-up with 15x8 225/45/15's up front. Fender flares may be in the cards for me in '08...I need to do some searching on who makes them for ef/ed. </TD></TR></TABLE>
broseph. find a mchine shop that has a metal massager like the ones they use to do the gas tanks on the chopper shows.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bury Your Dead »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
broseph. find a mchine shop that has a metal massager like the ones they use to do the gas tanks on the chopper shows.</TD></TR></TABLE>[QUOTE=Bury Your Dead]
that'll work on th fronts, but i would like to actually match front and rears. I want this car to stick like crazy through turns.
broseph. find a mchine shop that has a metal massager like the ones they use to do the gas tanks on the chopper shows.</TD></TR></TABLE>[QUOTE=Bury Your Dead]
that'll work on th fronts, but i would like to actually match front and rears. I want this car to stick like crazy through turns.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RSZero1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[QUOTE=Bury Your Dead]
that'll work on th fronts, but i would like to actually match front and rears. I want this car to stick like crazy through turns.</TD></TR></TABLE>
then you could duplicate that you did to the fronts with a piece of sheet metal and tack it onto the rears.
of, google the j's crx, i cant quite remember that they did but that thing has 0 offset wheels on it. or it did. they sold it to someone wnd the new owner did a K swap and time attacks the thing now.
that'll work on th fronts, but i would like to actually match front and rears. I want this car to stick like crazy through turns.</TD></TR></TABLE>
then you could duplicate that you did to the fronts with a piece of sheet metal and tack it onto the rears.
of, google the j's crx, i cant quite remember that they did but that thing has 0 offset wheels on it. or it did. they sold it to someone wnd the new owner did a K swap and time attacks the thing now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fowrdowr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a chance to pick up an EF shell for 500 bucks. It still has the motor...just is blown. I don't know if I should go for it. blehhhh</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a ol 89 Hf motor I will sell ya!
I have a ol 89 Hf motor I will sell ya!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16CRXT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn. Heath Ledger aka. the Joker died today. 
http://www.tmz.com/2008/01/22/heath-ledger-is-dead</TD></TR></TABLE>I know...crazy ****. I found out just before class started and mentioned it to everybody and then there was a kinda weird silence...

http://www.tmz.com/2008/01/22/heath-ledger-is-dead</TD></TR></TABLE>I know...crazy ****. I found out just before class started and mentioned it to everybody and then there was a kinda weird silence...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bury Your Dead »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jack nicholson will always be the joker.
heath ledger will always be "ulrich von lichenstein"</TD></TR></TABLE>
P
Who cares, some rich twenty year old actor dude is dead. I find it nuts the media needs to tell me about this instead of the "democracy" that is happening on capital hill.
heath ledger will always be "ulrich von lichenstein"</TD></TR></TABLE>
P
Who cares, some rich twenty year old actor dude is dead. I find it nuts the media needs to tell me about this instead of the "democracy" that is happening on capital hill.
Can anybody tell me if its safe to run a small spacer on stock length wheel studs? If so, what's the limit? I tried some new wheels on my DA today and they hit the caliper 
pic for reference.. i know it needs to go lower with the 14's..

pic for reference.. i know it needs to go lower with the 14's..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr_CRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can anybody tell me if its safe to run a small spacer on stock length wheel studs? If so, what's the limit? I tried some new wheels on my DA today and they hit the caliper
</TD></TR></TABLE>
In for more info. I want to rock 14" blades on 10.3" brakes
</TD></TR></TABLE>In for more info. I want to rock 14" blades on 10.3" brakes
So I'm back on the ol "I want to buy this Sentra SE-R" thing again. This time with pics and a little more info. on the car from the owner.
He said that it had been his dd until he ran into the back and under a lifted truck and its been sitting for a while now.
Problems:
obvious cosmetic damage
"classic 5th gear pop-out"
needs a new clutch
ticking from a lifter (I don't know much about this)
The car runs well except for the tranny...




I put a note on the windshield asking the guy if he wanted to sell the car. He calls me and wants me to take it for a spin to see what its worth to me. He didn't give me a ballpark number...so I don't know where to even begin to offer.
People with experience with these cars help me out. I plan on doing all the body work/paint myself so that isn't what im asking about. With the amount of work involved what is a good number to throw at the guy?
He said that it had been his dd until he ran into the back and under a lifted truck and its been sitting for a while now.
Problems:
obvious cosmetic damage
"classic 5th gear pop-out"
needs a new clutch
ticking from a lifter (I don't know much about this)
The car runs well except for the tranny...




I put a note on the windshield asking the guy if he wanted to sell the car. He calls me and wants me to take it for a spin to see what its worth to me. He didn't give me a ballpark number...so I don't know where to even begin to offer.
People with experience with these cars help me out. I plan on doing all the body work/paint myself so that isn't what im asking about. With the amount of work involved what is a good number to throw at the guy?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bury Your Dead »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">find kbb for "bad" condition, then cut it in half. dont let him sleep on it, have that amount in your wallet. so when he says "umm yeeaaa alright" hand it to him.</TD></TR></TABLE>looked that up but they don't have a # on the poor selection. 
cash in hand is good though. I really dont think I should spend more than $500 on it but then again, I dont have any experience with this car.

cash in hand is good though. I really dont think I should spend more than $500 on it but then again, I dont have any experience with this car.
okay so random question. besides going to a honda dealership and asking around the "dealer world" where might i be able to buy a new STOCK dual tip muffler....like a stock si?
anyone
anyone
anyone
anyone
anyone
anyone
anyone
anyone
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF9 JAMS!!! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay so random question. besides going to a honda dealership and asking around the "dealer world" where might i be able to buy a new STOCK dual tip muffler....like a stock si?
anyone
anyone
anyone
anyone
</TD></TR></TABLE>
STOCK= dealership
look for a DA GSR muffler. those where dual chrome tip stock.
anyone
anyone
anyone
anyone
</TD></TR></TABLE>
STOCK= dealership
look for a DA GSR muffler. those where dual chrome tip stock.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF9 JAMS!!! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay so random question. besides going to a honda dealership and asking around the "dealer world" where might i be able to buy a new STOCK dual tip muffler....like a stock si?
anyone
anyone
anyone
anyone
</TD></TR></TABLE>
how about calling up Honda Auto Salvage...right across the street from HASport.
(602) 470-0789
anyone
anyone
anyone
anyone
</TD></TR></TABLE>
how about calling up Honda Auto Salvage...right across the street from HASport.
(602) 470-0789
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bury Your Dead »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
STOCK= dealership
look for a DA GSR muffler. those where dual chrome tip stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the tips are seperate part numbers though. same thing with the usdm crx/civic si mufflers. the tips are extra $$
STOCK= dealership
look for a DA GSR muffler. those where dual chrome tip stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the tips are seperate part numbers though. same thing with the usdm crx/civic si mufflers. the tips are extra $$
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smokinsax »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looked that up but they don't have a # on the poor selection. 
cash in hand is good though. I really dont think I should spend more than $500 on it but then again, I dont have any experience with this car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
5th gear popout is the tip of the ice berg on those as far as synchros go. next you won't ahve 3rd gear and soon after 4th will start popping.
those are hla's so the ticking is incurable-unless you intend on pulling the timing covers so you can pull the timing chain, os you can pull the cams to access the lash adjuster to replace it. and that is assuming you can get teh lower supprt off from the bottom that always rust through and if you touch it you will never have 2 out of 4 engine mounts ever again.
if you are really gung ho about having a b13 find a better/cleaner one. i know from experience that trying to freshen up a rough one is a far worse investment than coughing up the change to buy one that is rust/dent/problem free.
edit-i wouldn't pay more than $50 so if it ***** out on me i could at least get my money back from the junkyard when they buy it for scrap.
as far as the 2 tip exhaust goes-just buy it from the dealer. they only cost about 150 for the axle back section and the oe replacement ones have lifetime parts replacement warranty should it rot out.

cash in hand is good though. I really dont think I should spend more than $500 on it but then again, I dont have any experience with this car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
5th gear popout is the tip of the ice berg on those as far as synchros go. next you won't ahve 3rd gear and soon after 4th will start popping.
those are hla's so the ticking is incurable-unless you intend on pulling the timing covers so you can pull the timing chain, os you can pull the cams to access the lash adjuster to replace it. and that is assuming you can get teh lower supprt off from the bottom that always rust through and if you touch it you will never have 2 out of 4 engine mounts ever again.
if you are really gung ho about having a b13 find a better/cleaner one. i know from experience that trying to freshen up a rough one is a far worse investment than coughing up the change to buy one that is rust/dent/problem free.
edit-i wouldn't pay more than $50 so if it ***** out on me i could at least get my money back from the junkyard when they buy it for scrap.
as far as the 2 tip exhaust goes-just buy it from the dealer. they only cost about 150 for the axle back section and the oe replacement ones have lifetime parts replacement warranty should it rot out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kylefakesi-r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
5th gear popout is the tip of the ice berg on those as far as synchros go. next you won't ahve 3rd gear and soon after 4th will start popping.
those are hla's so the ticking is incurable-unless you intend on pulling the timing covers so you can pull the timing chain, os you can pull the cams to access the lash adjuster to replace it. and that is assuming you can get teh lower supprt off from the bottom that always rust through and if you touch it you will never have 2 out of 4 engine mounts ever again.
if you are really gung ho about having a b13 find a better/cleaner one. i know from experience that trying to freshen up a rough one is a far worse investment than coughing up the change to buy one that is rust/dent/problem free.
edit-i wouldn't pay more than $50 so if it ***** out on me i could at least get my money back from the junkyard when they buy it for scrap.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

So what happens if the hla's go without being replaced? I just want to replace the hood and fenders and rattle can it flat black and call it a day. It would be a good dd for around town. ASSuming you werent totally serious about the $50 I think I can offer $100 for a beater...
5th gear popout is the tip of the ice berg on those as far as synchros go. next you won't ahve 3rd gear and soon after 4th will start popping.
those are hla's so the ticking is incurable-unless you intend on pulling the timing covers so you can pull the timing chain, os you can pull the cams to access the lash adjuster to replace it. and that is assuming you can get teh lower supprt off from the bottom that always rust through and if you touch it you will never have 2 out of 4 engine mounts ever again.
if you are really gung ho about having a b13 find a better/cleaner one. i know from experience that trying to freshen up a rough one is a far worse investment than coughing up the change to buy one that is rust/dent/problem free.
edit-i wouldn't pay more than $50 so if it ***** out on me i could at least get my money back from the junkyard when they buy it for scrap.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

So what happens if the hla's go without being replaced? I just want to replace the hood and fenders and rattle can it flat black and call it a day. It would be a good dd for around town. ASSuming you werent totally serious about the $50 I think I can offer $100 for a beater...
hey kyle, i am the same way when someone asks about a vw vr6. i tell em to stock up on "crack pipes" (the cooling system part that CRACKS a lot) as well as carry a coilpack in the glovebox, they **** without notice every 2 oil changes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vega_ROCKS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DA mufler has dual tip
Si has dual piping
just a fyi
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you are half-correct.
the SI has dual piping EXITING the muffler. before the muffler, it's still a single exhaust.
the DA exhaust has single piping that Y's at the tip.
SI exhaust:

DA exhaust:
Si has dual piping
just a fyi
</TD></TR></TABLE>you are half-correct.
the SI has dual piping EXITING the muffler. before the muffler, it's still a single exhaust.
the DA exhaust has single piping that Y's at the tip.
SI exhaust:

DA exhaust:


