.....mine had it..............but i got to looking and the line that crosses the rad opening had a huge crack in it....so out it came

 

Here's some pic s from the Elite Audio show/drift/dyno/audio event. Not gonna post any of my drift pics because they were too far away to really see much...I didnt touch any of these pics because I'm too tired and lazy.






















This S didnt even put down 190whp. Vtec sounded nasty with the invidia exhaust though!

CRX dash Still in the works...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Unless you are looking for just a plain jane swap. b20's are really cheap and have lots of torque. if i was going to stay n/a non-vtec, i would go with b20 over b18, based on torque. sleeving and boring gets expensive. sounds like he's looking for a cheap swap. the key is to get a decent tranny. the LS tranny will make any swap seem slow. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not necessarly going to do it on the cheap side. I want a tq motor not revver. Ive had both. I had a b16 car and drove on a regular basis a itr a buddy of mine had. I would like it to pull like my sr20 with cams did in my se-r.The car will see 3-5 track days a year, but i want it clean enough to hit a few shows too. Im looking for a solid 150 whp in my std. Not a unobtainable number for a reliable motor. Thanks for the help guys.

 

does anyone know if the crx ebrake cable and rear disc set up work on hatchs? or do i need different cables

 

i used 4 door DA cables on mine, which everyone told me they wouldnt work.....i think they will but not confirmed. Had to come back to the honda world huh?

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2068634
bump my **** also..............or buy it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBEengineering &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i used 4 door DA cables on mine, which everyone told me they wouldnt work.....i think they will but not confirmed. Had to come back to the honda world huh?</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, i never left. i just dont drive on or have a drivable one. i do have 3 hatchs and my crashed crx in my yard. im trying to put together my sisters red hatch so i dont have to worry about toyota problems. i do enjoy rwd though, about as much as fwd. not more though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by magoo_lc1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not necessarly going to do it on the cheap side. I want a tq motor not revver. Ive had both. I had a b16 car and drove on a regular basis a itr a buddy of mine had. I would like it to pull like my sr20 with cams did in my se-r.The car will see 3-5 track days a year, but i want it clean enough to hit a few shows too. Im looking for a solid 150 whp in my std. Not a unobtainable number for a reliable motor. Thanks for the help guys.</TD></TR></TABLE>

An budget motor LS could probably pull that no problem. With just some cams/header it should be attainable...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thenick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

An budget motor LS could probably pull that no problem. With just some cams/header it should be attainable...</TD></TR></TABLE>



I would go ls with some vtec killer cams or ls/vtec

 

Not really intersted in the vtec. The less moving parts the less chance of breakage. Is the ls easier to get parts for or about equal to the b20?. I want the motor solid because it will see track time. Im going through the pain of shopping for good suspension now. There is alot out there! Im coming from the nissan world were this is not much for my old b13. I have always had good luck with Progress. I like the function forms gen 2 as well. And the PIC stuff.

 

I've read/hear nothing but good things from F2 or D2. Also, there is a market for the LS. More so than D-series, not as much as B-series.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBEengineering &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i used 4 door DA cables on mine, which everyone told me they wouldnt work.....i think they will but not confirmed. Had to come back to the honda world huh?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can use the 4dr cables. the wheel base is all of an incha nd a half longer. whoever told you "no" has their head up their ***.

you cross them in the middle though to make up for the slack that is caused by the wheelbase difference between civic and integra.

as far as rex ones on a hatch-no. rex wheelbase is shorter.


on an unrelated note. i may never own an ef again. i'm thinking that by the time my life is financially prosperous again (when my wife finishes her degree and we finally have 2 incomes again) it would probably be a better idea to invest the money into transportation more suited to our life. i jsut can't see taking my kids on a long trip in the ef. i could pull it off more comfortably in a k20r swapped ep with ac though. and given my loaction coming accross usable chassis' is damn near impossible. every ef for sale in the are is rotted out, riced to ******* hell, or overpriced. if i am going to spend real money on a honda again it is gonna have to have less then the 150k that ef's come with and less winters filled with salt sprayed accross it.

cliffs notes: in a year when lindsey is working i am thinking about buying an ep and swapping it instead of building an ef monster. i'm tired of rust and price jackers because the cars/parts are getting old.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by magoo_lc1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not really intersted in the vtec. The less moving parts the less chance of breakage. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by magoo_lc1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I want the motor solid because it will see track time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know who told you a B18a/b would be more reliable on track than a VTEC B-series. If you want to have fun with a non-vtec b-series, you better attach it to a kick *** tranny for the track. Torque is cool and all, and you'll need it with a B18a/b to get you around track...but why not a VTEC motor? Torque won't matter as you'll be between 6 and 9k all day.

Otherwise, I give you 2 track days before you want more power, i.e. VTEC b-series.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 Fly SI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">



I would go ls with some vtec killer cams or ls/vtec</TD></TR></TABLE>

He needs a vtec head to use vtec killer cams. For some reason people think vtec killer cams are for non-vtec motors as in they "kill" vtec motors but in fact they do not have a crossover, they are "in vtec" at all times. Also note, these are NOT used at all in street driven motors.


Kyle I hate you right now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchMo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

He needs a vtec head to use vtec killer cams. For some reason people think vtec killer cams are for non-vtec motors as in they "kill" vtec motors but in fact they do not have a crossover, they are "in vtec" at all times. Also note, these are NOT used at all in street driven motors.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wasn't talking about toda cams. Gude use to make cams called vtec killers back in the day for the ls motors. I am not sure if they are still around or not.

 

Gude sucks so who cares haha

 

sorry ben.

but for the sake of driving around with kids in the car i would rather have a fun car with side airbags and all of the safety features that modern cars have over the lightweight car that i have always had. kids change things. i still want to have a honda and i still want to have fun but i don't want them at risk. i love them too much. my financial situation is not one that allows me to have an indefinite money pit such as a k'ed ef. therefore i think it is reasonable to cover all of the bases that i want in a car with one purchase. and by the looks of it my gsr'd eg with misc jdm bling pieces will pull enough money to cover 40-60% of an ep purchase. or if i start saving now i caould by the car and sell the eg to pay for a k20r. the latter not being very likely however since any money saved is typically used to pay down debt.

 

oh yeah...gude blows. don't buy that crap

 

I understand kyle. Just very saddening.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by magoo_lc1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not really intersted in the vtec. The less moving parts the less chance of breakage. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ahahahahahahahaha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchMo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I understand kyle. Just very saddening. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i know, it's like giving up my heritage for something new. it's ok though. it's a platform with quirky looks and is underestimated. sound familiar?

 

w00t! page 1111! This will never happen again!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kylefakesi-r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i know, it's like giving up my heritage for something new. it's ok though. it's a platform with quirky looks and is underestimated. sound familiar?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I say go for it. I've liked the ep right from the start. The ep will have a cult following in 10 years anyway, kind of like the crx and ef. What about a 4 door Si?