I hope you do some serious research before you go welding a roll bar into your daily driver. Roll bars/cages, fixed back racing seats, 5/6pt harnesses, and helmets are designed to work together, using one or some of those items, but not all, can often lead to a more dangerous situation than using none of them and sticking w/ the stock seats and seat belts. I'm not going to comment specifically since I don't know your exact setup or how you plan to use the car or how often it'll be driven. But in general I don't see any reason to use a roll bar in a street car and personally it adds ZERO piece of mind. I can see exceptions being made for track cars which are driven occasionally on the street or even daily drivers that see a LOT of track time, but that's it. And by a "LOT" of track time I'm talking monthly.

 

Wait, I'm confused. You said the manifold/tb setup "performed better." You're talking about power now, but when I mentioned ITBs aren't about power you said:

Anyway, it doesn't matter.

That's true. I would go as far as to argue that there is no point of having ITBs on an engine equipped with VTEC. A real Honda B that's built for ITBs should be using VTEC killer camshafts. VTEC is for gas mileage/emissions/smooth idle and those are not compatible (and have no reason to be) with individual throttle bodies. Having VTEC with ITBs is just useless valvetrain weight.

I know that with whatever setup I have again, I'll do it right. That's all that matters to me.

 

mmm Vtec killers!
Like you said, it does apply to B series setups but not for the almighty K, lol! But that's a completely different motor and technology.

 

Kyle, you know were not gonna allow you to lurk anymore unless you get another DA

 

All that applies to the B still applies to the K; it's the same concept. The only difference is that you can use the ram air with the K because of engine configuration. If not for that, everything would still apply: it's pretty pointless to have ITBs and VTEC.

Also, companies like IPS, AFI, etc. make ram air intake manifolds for K-series equipped cars that make ITBs even more pointless for drag racing:

 

HAHA!!!

Everytime I get frustrated with life and feel like I want to drive like a maniac, I remember how that's what almost got me killed in my DA and why I decided to get a CR-V. I'm seriously ADDICTED to cars and it's not a good idea for me to get one that I can modify. Anyone who knows me in real life knows I can drive like a psycho and instantly revert to "Ricky Bobby" when racing.

Plus, DAs are WACK! I would never want one again as a daily driver, and if I ever wanted to make one into a race car I would have to stitch weld and cage that **** to stiffen up its INFERIOR chassis. I used to love the DAs inferiority so much...

 

colin, can you post up some pictures of your roll bar? i just want to see the design and where it's bolted on the body...

 

I was referring to the actual motor and things like iVtec, when noting how different K's were.
I love that manifold, my buddy has it on his K24 car except the AFI version, same general design. His air filter sticks through the grill!

 

OMG............................................... ...................

 

HAHA! Obviously kidding.

Hell, you could walk in my bathroom and see that I'm a DA fanatic. At this very moment on top of my toilet bowl, my reading while shitting materials are an official 1990 Integra service manual and only car mags where my friends' DAs were featured.

 

Tearing the DA apart to give the motor to the new owner....almost have enough for the new motor. I cant wait.......

 

What's that going to be?

 

just sticking to what I know.....I will post up a build thread and keep everyone in the loop. The build thread should be up in a couple days

 

to be honest, i'd never paint my DA6s bay a different color or tuck it, or slam it with camber like that. but it looks freaking awsome love everything about it. rims are tasty. A polished or shiny rollcage will look 10x better than the red or pink you got going on there. the exterior looks fantastic, keep it up bud! =D

 

It's your standard Autopower 4pt bolt in boll bar, you can see the design on their website. I don't have any pics showing a wide angle shot of it in the car, but I have some of the mounting locations.

Front mounting point
http://www.flickr.com/photos/clen/4405889554/Medium



Front w/ carpet installed
http://www.flickr.com/photos/clen/4405890394/Medium



Rear mounting point
http://www.flickr.com/photos/clen/4405890066/Medium



Backing plate for the rear point (front backing plates are the same design)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/clen/4405125143/Medium


When I first saw the plates used to bolt to the body I was a bit taken aback, they looked really small to me. The first bar I went to look at I actually assumed was a cheaper knock off until I looked into it further. But Autopower is one of the bolt-in bar/cage manufacturers that actually gets their stuff OK'd by sanctioning bodies like SCCA and NASA. Depending on the specific application Autopower bolt-in products can be used legally in various forms of racing. Something that not all manufacturers can say, especially not something the likes of Cusco/Safety21.

My only complaint is that the main hoop is a bit far back, it's behind the B-pillar bar. If it were further forward it would provide better rollover protection. However, my seating position is pretty far forward since I'm short and the location of the main hoop isn't so much a design flaw but something they had to do in order for it to fit properly and work for a wide variety of drivers.

 

thanks for posting it! i'm planning to have mine fabricated but i'm not sure if they will allow it or it will pass the SCCA standards.. and the mounting point on the rear, is it really much better if it's mounted in that portion or in the rear struts?..

 

damn i was looking at my garage today and wondered where the two days of cleaning out boxes and cleaning the floor and painting cabinets went to... now its back to a mess and full of boxes and tools everywhere

 

@COLIN my roll bar is mounted exactly the same

 

If you're having it fab'd then you'd be stupid to end up with a roll bar that doesn't meet SCCA standards. The guidelines are available from SCCA/NASA and I wouldn't use a fabricator who can't follow those guidelines and provide you with something you can use - if they can't, I wouldn't pay them.

The rear strut mounting location is more typical for a fabb'd roll cage. I assume it is a better mounting location, but would be very inconvenient for a bolt in application.


This is the typical mounting for most bolt-in roll bars, the only other exception I can think of is the Kirk roll bar which has the rear down tubes mount to the rear of the car behind the bumper area. I haven't done any research as to which is better, but I did recently run across someone's opinion that the Autopower (wheel well) mounting location was better because if you're in a rear end type accident the force gets transferred directly into the roll bar if the bar mounts near the bumper. If the bar mounts on the wheel wells or strut towers, the unibody of the car absorbs a large chunk of the impact and it would be very rare that the wheel wells get pushed forward which would push the roll bar out of whack. That opinion made a lot of sense to me.

 

Colin, you have a bolt in roll bar?!

 

well i just put in my sunroof plug today lol

 

What is a sunroof plug?

 

well i dont like the stock belts at all always chokein me out haha
and il throw some foam on that **** and my head will be ok haha and why not, hows it gunna hurt me to put somthin in thats supposes to help im case of an accident??

 

^ WTF?

 

Da9parlingnare u retarded? If your head hits a roll bar your gonna look like scrambled eggs landed inside yo car

All parts are supposed to work together rollbar helmet harnesses