DA Integra's Only
Scarface jacket! lol
Yay for genuine ITR lips not fitting our DA's. Where do these stupid topics come from? I thought we already talked these topics to death 1000 pages ago lol.
They look "ok" but they need to be good quality so they fit nice. Like what knowledge posted.
Thanks knowledge for putting this one to death quickly.
I'm trying to get my charge piping ordered. Then I'm just about done all my parts.
Hey Matt, your going to run the PWM for boost by gear. I wanted to do that too so PLEASE post up how things go and how you like it.
I'll start off with crome, but once I spring for the s300 I'm doing the same. Should fix alot of traction issues I'll be facing with the new setup.
Yay for genuine ITR lips not fitting our DA's. Where do these stupid topics come from? I thought we already talked these topics to death 1000 pages ago lol.
They look "ok" but they need to be good quality so they fit nice. Like what knowledge posted.
Thanks knowledge for putting this one to death quickly.
I'm trying to get my charge piping ordered. Then I'm just about done all my parts.
Hey Matt, your going to run the PWM for boost by gear. I wanted to do that too so PLEASE post up how things go and how you like it.
I'll start off with crome, but once I spring for the s300 I'm doing the same. Should fix alot of traction issues I'll be facing with the new setup.
I'm trying to get my charge piping ordered. Then I'm just about done all my parts.
Hey Matt, your going to run the PWM for boost by gear. I wanted to do that too so PLEASE post up how things go and how you like it.
I'll start off with crome, but once I spring for the s300 I'm doing the same. Should fix alot of traction issues I'll be facing with the new setup.
Hey Matt, your going to run the PWM for boost by gear. I wanted to do that too so PLEASE post up how things go and how you like it.
I'll start off with crome, but once I spring for the s300 I'm doing the same. Should fix alot of traction issues I'll be facing with the new setup.
I would suggest you get the PWM from the start, I should have!
Doesn't crome have boost by gear settings? I know a lot of crome ppl use the solenoid but don't know about the boost by gear option.
Traction issues suck!
What turbo, compression and cams will you be running?
With my 60-1, pro 1's and 9:5 - 10:1 I see boost around 4400 which is rediculous and just blows off the tires!
Are you just ordering universal piping, how big? 2.5"?
I would suggest you get the PWM from the start, I should have!
Doesn't crome have boost by gear settings? I know a lot of crome ppl use the solenoid but don't know about the boost by gear option.
Traction issues suck!
What turbo, compression and cams will you be running?
With my 60-1, pro 1's and 9:5 - 10:1 I see boost around 4400 which is rediculous and just blows off the tires!
I would suggest you get the PWM from the start, I should have!
Doesn't crome have boost by gear settings? I know a lot of crome ppl use the solenoid but don't know about the boost by gear option.
Traction issues suck!
What turbo, compression and cams will you be running?
With my 60-1, pro 1's and 9:5 - 10:1 I see boost around 4400 which is rediculous and just blows off the tires!
I went through the CFM charts for the piping and 3inch is pretty much good to go with room to work with.
I've got to talk to my tuner about using it with crome. Maybe there is that option as I haven't asked or looked into it before. I do like all the safety settings on Hondata though so I'm pretty set on getting it down the road.
Compression is about 9:5
I'm running an SC61 with the S cover (4inch). I've got the .63A/R for the cold side so I'll have to see how that goes. Cams are just CTR's as I'm running oversized ferrea valves. I never put much time into seeing how big of a cam I could run safely, which I kind of regret, but OS valves should make up the difference in flow.
I'd love to crack into 500whp and make it stick to the ground this time. I like the idea of running 2 maps. One street low power and one track high power. Does Hondata do that? Seems like I need to research alot more, but if you know I'm all ears
I went through the CFM charts for the piping and 3inch is pretty much good to go with room to work with.
I've got to talk to my tuner about using it with crome. Maybe there is that option as I haven't asked or looked into it before. I do like all the safety settings on Hondata though so I'm pretty set on getting it down the road.
Compression is about 9:5
I'm running an SC61 with the S cover (4inch). I've got the .63A/R for the cold side so I'll have to see how that goes. Cams are just CTR's as I'm running oversized ferrea valves. I never put much time into seeing how big of a cam I could run safely, which I kind of regret, but OS valves should make up the difference in flow.
I'd love to crack into 500whp and make it stick to the ground this time. I like the idea of running 2 maps. One street low power and one track high power. Does Hondata do that? Seems like I need to research alot more, but if you know I'm all ears
I've got to talk to my tuner about using it with crome. Maybe there is that option as I haven't asked or looked into it before. I do like all the safety settings on Hondata though so I'm pretty set on getting it down the road.
Compression is about 9:5
I'm running an SC61 with the S cover (4inch). I've got the .63A/R for the cold side so I'll have to see how that goes. Cams are just CTR's as I'm running oversized ferrea valves. I never put much time into seeing how big of a cam I could run safely, which I kind of regret, but OS valves should make up the difference in flow.
I'd love to crack into 500whp and make it stick to the ground this time. I like the idea of running 2 maps. One street low power and one track high power. Does Hondata do that? Seems like I need to research alot more, but if you know I'm all ears

Hmm a set of pro 1's would help spool that SC61 up faster

I went with OE sized flat faced valves to get a bit more compression.
You can easily do that with Hondata, even off a switch for quick changing hi/low boost plots.
If you shooting for 500 I'm assuming your block is sleeved? 2.0?
What does your transmission and differential setup look like?
hell just give me a list of your setup, lol!
Hmm I think 3 inch may be too large for your setup. From my experience 3 inch charge pipes aren't needed until you get up there in hp. For instance I know several 500 - 600 hp cars all running 2.5 piping with no restrictions.
Hmm a set of pro 1's would help spool that SC61 up faster
I went with OE sized flat faced valves to get a bit more compression.
You can easily do that with Hondata, even off a switch for quick changing hi/low boost plots.
If you shooting for 500 I'm assuming your block is sleeved? 2.0?
What does your transmission and differential setup look like?
hell just give me a list of your setup, lol!
Hmm a set of pro 1's would help spool that SC61 up faster

I went with OE sized flat faced valves to get a bit more compression.
You can easily do that with Hondata, even off a switch for quick changing hi/low boost plots.
If you shooting for 500 I'm assuming your block is sleeved? 2.0?
What does your transmission and differential setup look like?
hell just give me a list of your setup, lol!
It was just off the chart in the sticky. We ran 3inch with no real difference from 2.5inch in another similar setup as mine. I'm undecided though right now.
Cool, looking forward to running a decent setup.
Yea as you could guess I'm sleeved. CC is just under 2.0L, but ya it's considered 2.0L
Transmission is just a simple LS with LSD. Probably wont last long, but I have high hopes lol.
I'm running topmount so I know my spool will be down. I wont know till I get it running and see whats gonna happen.
I'm running a single 60mm wastegate. Seen a couple setups do it, but I'll give it a shot. Maybe I can be a pioneer??? or not... lol
you show me where these 75$ brand new OEM ITR lips are.. or a Mugen one that is real that is 75$ and is brand new..
please do show me,
last real itr lip for a DC i saw on ebay was 300 shipped..
and they are 220 a piece for my civic from a honda parts wholesaler.. so please mister ever so wise, please do share your knowledge of where the cheap parts are.
cause your gonna do one of a couple things, which either helps me out and sweet lips really are that cheap in special spots, or your not gonna reply to this with a valid link to prove your point and make yourself look like the ***.
please do show me,
last real itr lip for a DC i saw on ebay was 300 shipped..
and they are 220 a piece for my civic from a honda parts wholesaler.. so please mister ever so wise, please do share your knowledge of where the cheap parts are.
cause your gonna do one of a couple things, which either helps me out and sweet lips really are that cheap in special spots, or your not gonna reply to this with a valid link to prove your point and make yourself look like the ***.
92-93 brand new OEM 92-93 front lip. Part number 9.
$74.68
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
Shut up you dumb son of a bitch.
$74.68
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
Shut up you dumb son of a bitch.
Point made, u can argue your point if you want, but you have already made it, and i am sorry but u lost. The proof lies as stated above and underlined. thanks
end of discussion
Your sig shows a DC. Your user name is a DC. Your arguing about a ITR lip.
If you don't in some way own a DA; GTFO. Seriously
I thought the thread title was clear...
I'm sorry but I'm tired of scrolling past your weak argument
If you don't in some way own a DA; GTFO. Seriously

I thought the thread title was clear...
I'm sorry but I'm tired of scrolling past your weak argument
man I can't wait to get home to drive my teg, I am in scranton,pa with my work and I can't keep up with these dudes, we got bent last night, had class all day today and now we are getting ready to go out again, don't know how long I can hang tonight......
hahhha and you don't have to ask your old lady for permission!
to the guy that needs the shaft and starter. you can use the auto starter, you will need the manual int.shaft and the manual mount with bracket. and 1 inch shim between the bracket and mount, and the corresponding 1 inch longer bolts
SO much of this going on lately, save face and don't talk about what it SHOULD make, just talk about it after it DID make XXX power.
I used my buddies set and honestly, they help but they still mark them up. They are nice, but we bent the -16AN wrench doing his rad hoses lol.
Ah yes the **** talking about what your project is going to do. I'm sure yours is way better then mine.
For reference everyone can check out my build thread here:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...2728707&page=5
I wasn't trying to pick on you but I'm tired of coming in here and seeing this lame argument carry on.
PS: matt I posted that link for you too. Go check it out if you want details on my build. I dont have a list of stuff done but scroll through the pics and you can figure it out, hehe
Ah yes the **** talking about what your project is going to do. I'm sure yours is way better then mine.
For reference everyone can check out my build thread here:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...2728707&page=5
I wasn't trying to pick on you but I'm tired of coming in here and seeing this lame argument carry on.
PS: matt I posted that link for you too. Go check it out if you want details on my build. I dont have a list of stuff done but scroll through the pics and you can figure it out, hehe








