DA Integra's Only
^Looks like an override so when the car is off you can still get it into neutral.
Side Note:
Over heated brakes.
These are Axxis Metal Masters.
I need to get my other wheels on because this is what happens with steelies and no breathing room.

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Also If anybody wants a USRacing front lip, I just bought it off whatgsr and decided not to use it $375 picked up.
Side Note:
Over heated brakes.
These are Axxis Metal Masters.I need to get my other wheels on because this is what happens with steelies and no breathing room.

--
Also If anybody wants a USRacing front lip, I just bought it off whatgsr and decided not to use it $375 picked up.
yeah but the dizzy isnt the problem so a rebuilt one wouldn't help anything in my situation 
hmm, really? i'm gonna have to try that i guess. never heard of a coolant temp sensor keeping a car from starting... and that is 1 of the 2 codes i have. the other is idle air control valve

My car was having the same problem.
Me ECU threw a code for the coolant temp sensor.
Swapped that and car runs great now.
My spark plugs were soaked with gas. Throwing too much gasoline into the combustion chamber at start up. Therefore wanting to turn on but quickly shutting off after a couple secs. Then nothing after that. Just crank.
Me ECU threw a code for the coolant temp sensor.
Swapped that and car runs great now.

My spark plugs were soaked with gas. Throwing too much gasoline into the combustion chamber at start up. Therefore wanting to turn on but quickly shutting off after a couple secs. Then nothing after that. Just crank.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,560
Likes: 1
From: Mashing in the big chainring in LOS ANGELES, CA
I saw MySelfAffliction's black GS-R at Eibach with a For Sale sign on it. I was all over it until I found out that 4K wasn't with wheels.
From what I saw, the engine bay is still Aztec Green. I could see it through the gap between the hood and fender.
From what I saw, the engine bay is still Aztec Green. I could see it through the gap between the hood and fender.
well the car was parked, came back and it was smashed by a low skills driver who couldn't back up. car has been placed back to near stock and the other parts have been pulled and sold. i've got another car that i'm working with right now, but its not a DA. if i find another one I may build it just for fun.
put my ssr's up for trade on CL today so far the only person that has responded was a guy with kosei senaka's its a possibility looking for something else so gonna keep my eyes out for some new wheels!
I'm selling it because I currently use it as my DD. I have an 01 Z06 as my weekend car. I finally realized i do not need two project cars. So i'm going to sell this and buy a bone stock car and not modify it. I'll leave that to buying parts for the Z06. I currently have one person very interested in teh car but i'm still taking offers.
And to all the others, thanks for the compliments :-)
well what can you expect from a car that was made nearly 20 years ago?....it's gonna have higher miles. To me mileage isn't that big of a deal for a rare car. If you truly want a rare car and love it, you'll have no problem rebuilding the engine to have it last a longer time.
well what can you expect from a car that was made nearly 20 years ago?....it's gonna have higher miles. To me mileage isn't that big of a deal for a rare car. If you truly want a rare car and love it, you'll have no problem rebuilding the engine to have it last a longer time.
Personally, I'd shop in this order:
1) Paint/Body. This is irreplaceable. Once the factory paint is damaged, it'll be gone forever, and you'll never achieve that same paint from a shop - at least w/o multiple multiple thousands of dollars - and even then it's debatable if it compares.
2) "Stockness" Something that hasn't been touched - AT ALL, is priceless. Obviously, it depends on the mod. Something like lowering springs isn't a big deal. But an alarm siren screwed to the firewall - no way to get rid of those holes w/o paint and body work.
3) Interior. Good interior is hard to find, not impossible, but hard to find. And even then it'll be worn. You may think it's in good condition, but were you able to compare to brand new, off the showroom floor condition, you'd be amazed.
4) Engine. You'll be replacing this regardless, so it doesn't much matter, but having all the stock brackets, screws... and what not is nice.
5) Suspension. All of this will be replaced as well, and not really of much concern. Regardless of the car having 20k or 200k miles, the bushings and other components are likely to be shot from age or mileage. And even if they weren't, you'd be replacing them for performance upgrades anyway.
are you kidding on the paint? my painter's work ***** on an OEM paint job. OEM paint comes with orange peel. If you use superior paint and wet sanding and buffing the quality is much better than stock. Have you seen how well OEM Milano Red has stood the test of time? or the clear coat on black and green paint from Honda.
Sucks about the DA freakin eLRoD. Something needs to be done about the testing system for your license in the states. Nowhere else in the world do drivers suck so bad ... 25% of the drivers out there shouldn't have a license.
are you kidding on the paint? my painter's work ***** on an OEM paint job. OEM paint comes with orange peel. If you use superior paint and wet sanding and buffing the quality is much better than stock. Have you seen how well OEM Milano Red has stood the test of time? or the clear coat on black and green paint from Honda.
You're right about those colors tough. Red takes some effort to keep clean, and black fades if you don't wax it. White is pretty durable though (also my favorite color). Either way, I'd like to see aftermarket paint see 15+ yrs of sun 12+ hrs a day and not do the same or much worse.










