It just so happens that when many people do this, they use the stock block and don't rebuild it. The block isn't made for high revs and it gives out (usually rod bolts).

Also, what makes the setup less reliable is the 89mm stroke. Folks like to rev their B18A/B and B20 engines with VTEC heads to 8,000 RPM. Notice how even the H22a, which has a better rod/stroke ratio than the 89mm B18A/B and B20B/Z, starts to redline at 7,200 RPM. The "LS/VTEC" and "B20/VTEC " engines aren't necessarily less reliable than an OEM VTEC engine, but see more stress at high revs due to the simple fact that thay have higher stroke, thus making the engine see higher piston speeds.

Folks like to rev their 89mm blocks like they're B18Cs, when they're not.

 

I agree with you all..Most guys that blow them up built them fast and/or cheap..I rebuilt mine with good parts and rev my mine almost 9k...

I do do wire tucks and other things often..I just find it easy for figure out problems in my head and use muti meters and other tools...Its not that I never use it..just not often

 

this is exactly what i was referring to, im talking about stock block and head setups, with all stock internals, without being re built, only using arp headstuds and a new headgasket, making sure the timing belt is still good condition, putting the engine together and revving it to 8k, and having it last 4 years +

 

i need to check the stamp on my head to check what year the engine actually is, from Attarco its labeled as a 2000 jdm b20b, but i have a feeling it is not, luckily i havent been taking it up to the redline of that motor as its a couple hundred higher than the pre 99

 

how much did u get it for Duma

 

i think i picked it up for $400, still had all the tags on it and the paperwork for it, guy bought it and never installed it, either way a good purchase, the 99-00 redlines at 6800 and the pre 99 redlines at 6300, luckily i never took it past 63-64, a friend of mine had some crower stage1 cams for it in perfect condition that he was gonna sell me for 100 i should have bought them

 

good deal

 

sounds like your talking bout my setup...

 

the set up that was in the wagon, yes, which i believe that block is being used in danas car now, ive also known a couple others who've ran similar set ups to this that have had motors last a long time

 

Hook it up with some one pieces! I think it's time..
Anyone from the bay want a hook on vinyl wrap? thinking about getting my car wrapped instead of painted.
Got someone that can do it for around a grand
Just a thought..

 

check on gaybay for the one piece... i think i saw some for like 175

 

can someone please help me out on a oil pressure gauge there two grounds right one for the power and one for the engine bay right or no.?????

 

huh?

 

do u know anything about gauges bro.?

 

I don't like buying from ebay. Never know the actual quality until the package arrives.

From my understanding, in order to build a b20 vtec, i need a b20 bottom block and any b series vtec head.
So far i have a full b20b. What head would produce the most power that is easily attainable?

 

Some. Your question is very confusing and doesn't give enough relevant info in order for people to try and help you. Some punctuation might help too.

 

I really don't see why ppl have this misconception about Ebay. Pay with PayPal and dispute it if it is wrong......
I've been buying off Ebay since 2000 and have only had 1 issue, 1 issue in 10 years and probably over 500 purchases isn't bad at all!

^ This!

 

Agreed. They are really good about disputes. Just be smart, don't buy if the pics are shitty or if the description sucks. It should be pretty obvious who is legit and who isn't and what parts are legit and which aren't. Then in the event of a mishap you've still got ebay and paypal to help resolve the problem. I also use my Amex card thru paypal so for me that's another layer of security.

 

ive heard the gsr head flows better and has a little bit higher compression, theres a whole thread on how to build a reliable ls/b20 vtec you should read up on it

 

I've bought from ebay many times as well and had my good and bad experiences with it.
I would much rather keep it local or buy from someone i know, that's all.

 

for what most people do with ls/b20 blocks and vtec heads, the "flow" you speak of is neglible and doesn't amount to a hill of beans. You can make a reliable set up out of any combination. in the long run, good compression with some new OEM parts is the perfect setup that will def be reliable.

 

Found this..
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/b20vtec/b20vtec.php

Anyways, heading out to stockton to work on the motor. Thanks for the tips

 

in stock for either will be fine not much of a diffrence

 

i would choose the gsr head due to the higher compression thats the route i went with my b20vtec and im reving mine to 8k if it blows it blows why build a motor to granny drive it. pointless, could of just kept the stock motor

 

i think the only downside to a gsr head is the options for different manifolds