theres a bunch of youngsters in here man
counting my self

 

How about checking your cel and seeing what the code is? Check your vacuum lines/iacv/fitv. I would also check your main fuel relay since its hard to start back up after it cuts off. Oh, what obd are you on?

 

im on obd 1
the last time i checked the cel it was
4 CKP - crank position sensor <---- thats the knock sensor right?
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
threw a code 6 but took care of that one.

checked the fitv iacv all good cleaned them up and everything

vacums not sure got a diagram of how there supposed to go

the main fuel realy?? the one under the backseat?

 

The main fuel relay is under the driver side dash, the fuel pump is under the back seats.
Knock sensor is code 23
CKP Sensor (Crankshaft Position Sensor) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
CYP Sensor (Cylinder) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
vacuum diagrams for a b16 in crx but should be the same for the most part.

 

the cyp and ckp is inside the distributor right and the wires lead to the harness right
alright if the vacuum lines are similar to a crx then i messed up on the lines will look at that tomorrow

thanks mattyg2

 

Yes, the CYP and CKP is in the distributor.

 

<--20 bout to be 21 woot woot
i want new suspension
a friend of a friend got full skunk 2 suspension on his DA and then it got flooded during the rainstorm and the insurance totaled his car and they took it wen i saw him he was like oh **** i could of given it to u huh...i almost cried lol

 

alright thanks man good looking out

 

Probably about time to get a new distributor. Of course I'd say Honda OEM unit, but no one will pay that much. I got lucky and found a barely used Honda OEM distributor and have 0 problems. You shouldn't stress over small problems like this

 

damnnnnn that sucks man

 

Before you keep doing that to the engine you should do some serious thinking about oil pressure. Your oil pressure warning light is on after the engine starts - could be BAD!!! If your oil pressure is just a little low, you should be OK, but if it's REALLY low, you could be doing damage to your engine. Regardless of that, it's low and you need to find out why it's low.

In regard to your vacuum routing, that will depend on the manifold you're running. What IM are you using? 92-93 GSR is probably the best diagram to look at. But if you're running a simplified setup it may not transfer over completely. Pics of the bay would help a lot (good pics, not shitty cell phone ones).

Post a mod list and that would help too.

 

I just noticed the lightshow on his video. wow. I'd definitely be worried about that oil pressure. As the master Colin said, depends on what manifold you're using to make the vacuums right. I just assumed it was probably a B16 manifold.

 

stock b20z2 block
stock b16 head
b16 manifold <---- got plans to switch that out
injectors and fuel rail
ls tranny <-- didnt know it was an ls tranny thought it was a b16 cause the guy told me it was
b16 clutch and flywheel
the motor is basicaly stock no major mods jus intake


what can be some of the reasons why the oil pressure can be low?

ok im doing some reading and i seen this that caught my eye


Engine runs with oil pressure light on
- Short in wiring circuit. <--- ill check that
- Faulty oil pressure sending unit. <----?????
- Worn engine bearings and/or oil pum <-- oil pump?

 

Were the block and head rebuilt to stock specs or is it a used block and head mated together for a B20/Vtec? Could be a bad oil pump.

<- 24

 

mated together lol

 

Maybe a new vtec water pump, oil pump and timing belt will help.

I'm not sure if there's anything else you can check before spending that cash but the motor just seems confused, like it doesn't know if it's a vtec or a non vtec.

Do you know what kind of oil pump and timing belt is on there now?

 

stock b20 oil pump
and ls timing belt

 

Could be bad pump if you haven't changed it before putting it together.

 

Your motor is lost. a b20 oil pump for a VTEC setup doesn't sound like a good idea. Sounds like your motor was put together with no thought input. I'm sure that's why you're oil light keeps coming on.

 

yeah didnt change it out
before it wasnt hooked up so i didnt know the light was on
ill check for any shorts ( but it may be to late already lol)

 

motor is not lost. we had a b20vtec for 6 years with the same oem honda b20 water/oil pump. no problems at all. motor is now in my car as a b20 longblock and its still fine today with those same pumps.

 

Maybe you got lucky as I feel all ls/vtec's are

 

if its the 99 and up b20z the oil pump is the same as the vtec pumps if im not mistaken all 99 and up b series motors use the same oil pump the p72 pump thats why i also didnt change out my oil pump on my b20vtec setup

 

as far as low oil pressure are you sure all the fittings on the ls/vtec kit are on right i have heard quite a bit of people having oil pressure issues with ls/vtec and b20/vtecs but there issue is to the point were they wont have vtec engagment so they really not getting oil pressure

 

oops wait mistake actually all the 96 and up b-series oil pumps are the same had to fix that