BUILT NOT BOUGHT!
dont give up on it, hopefully you get it back without alot missing and you can easily replace the parts and continue on with your build, after purchasing an alarm system
dont get your hopes up that everything is going to be there but dont think that everything is going to be gone. just wait and see whats left before reacting. it could be bad or it could be better either way dont let it stop you from continuing to make progress once you get the car back in your possession.
keep us updated either way.
Also I picked up buddy club spec one I'm putting on tommorow ats hooked me up heres axle back i also got catback



5 zigen b pipe



5 zigen b pipe
Last edited by 91 crx savage; Dec 2, 2011 at 07:02 PM.
longest project ever
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,494
Likes: 2
From: on the south side of dixie, 1986 Accord Hatch
if you get it back look into the bike alarms with the RFID ignition kill, you can interface one into your alarm, when you get into the car the system recognizes the chip on your key chain, when you leave it goes out of range and shuts down. You need layers of security, the average tweaker or young thief isn't going to try to bypass that, there are easier targets, one item to look into is the back up siren with it's own built in battery, they have them on ebay, if the original alarm is deactivated, it triggers and can't be shut off, if they cut the wire to it, you need a special key to insert into the siren to shut it off, the average thief figures they can pop the hood, cut the alarm wire, and steal the car, don't make the siren location obvious, or the alarm power wires obvious, and for gods sake don't mount the alarm module behind the dash, they know to look there. don't advertise the brand of alarm on the car, they may know tricks to bypass it, get a generic alarm sticker. If they try to kill your alarm and the car starts doing strange unexpected things, they are going to get nervous and probably move on, Thieves like predictable things, throw them off of their game and they get nervous. best combination is a timed relay triggered by an auxiliary button on your remote , you have a certain amount of time to perform a specific sequence to allow power to the ignition circuits, no remote signal, no timed signal, no ignition , power. if the button is on your remote, they can't push it, even if they had the keys they wouldn't know the sequence



usa! its not scratched its polish from cleaning...went to sf past two weekends for parts heres what rear end looks like after installs, ready for rear swaybar now. Also the colors came out the way they did cause I got parts at good deals. Im going for function, not color scheme but doesent look bad, oh yea i also got a race jack.
Damn this thread moves quick!
Been a while since i've checked in here.
Got my sedan running, driving, smashin about the 503. Definately one of a kind lookin.
My hatch is still motorless, instead of dumping money in a motor I decided to move into an apartment for the winter to have a warm place to sleep n my own space. however I did pick up a disassembled b20v and my buddies old gsr trans that he blew the spider gears out of.
plans for the b20v are simple, bore it to 84.5mm, get some decent rods and pistons that'll get me between 11 and 12:1 compression, along with some ctr cams, aftermarket intake manifold, and probably a bisi header. trans is going to get new syncro's where needed, a limited slip diff and placed in a cable ls shell with the ls 5th gear. simple, business, done.
I need to replace the passenger frame rail on my hatch, and both front frame rails and the core support on my sedan, sadly she's salvage title but when i'm done you wont know it.
Been a while since i've checked in here.
Got my sedan running, driving, smashin about the 503. Definately one of a kind lookin.
My hatch is still motorless, instead of dumping money in a motor I decided to move into an apartment for the winter to have a warm place to sleep n my own space. however I did pick up a disassembled b20v and my buddies old gsr trans that he blew the spider gears out of.
plans for the b20v are simple, bore it to 84.5mm, get some decent rods and pistons that'll get me between 11 and 12:1 compression, along with some ctr cams, aftermarket intake manifold, and probably a bisi header. trans is going to get new syncro's where needed, a limited slip diff and placed in a cable ls shell with the ls 5th gear. simple, business, done.
I need to replace the passenger frame rail on my hatch, and both front frame rails and the core support on my sedan, sadly she's salvage title but when i'm done you wont know it.
I designed and produced a Lower Tie Bar for my eg hatch...
I made this out of a solid block of aluminum.
Its alittle dirty from installation.
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[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Sorry all I have right now is iphone pics.
I made this out of a solid block of aluminum.
Its alittle dirty from installation.
[IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG]Sorry all I have right now is iphone pics.
bought the car in 2002 bone stock 213K
only drove it a few days out of the year and it mainly sat in the garage.
I started buying parts and doing research
swapped gsr motor in 07... only drove it 200 miles to break in new clutch
car over heated and it sat in storage for 2 years with out moving.
2009 swaped head gakset and drove 5K
2010 started 10 month build & dumped in over $12K
i just got it finished and tuned back in August 2011... now she's in storage again.
when i pulled it out of storage after fixing head gasket and sitting for 2yrs



took it for baseline dyno fall 2010 before I strip down the car.

pictures taken in Sept 2010 before stripping her down.







heading off to be painted, shaved & kit install
Jan 2011 car is back from the shop




NA gsr installed with wire tuck, brake like tuck, suspension and heading off to shop for turbo fab & tune


back home & tuned august 2011




stock gsr + gsr hydro tranny
obd1 + crome 972
gt3540s turbo
mini-ram manifold
3" dp with custom 70mm ecutout
rsr exhaust
progress CSII coilvers
and a bunch of other stuff
drag, street and road racing application:
160whp & 119tq stock
260whp & 215tq @ 6psi = full boost @ 4500rpms
325whp & 225tq @ 10psi = full boost @ 4600rpms
395whp & 275tq @ 16-17psi = full boost @ 4800rpms



only drove it a few days out of the year and it mainly sat in the garage.
I started buying parts and doing research
swapped gsr motor in 07... only drove it 200 miles to break in new clutch
car over heated and it sat in storage for 2 years with out moving.
2009 swaped head gakset and drove 5K
2010 started 10 month build & dumped in over $12K
i just got it finished and tuned back in August 2011... now she's in storage again.
when i pulled it out of storage after fixing head gasket and sitting for 2yrs



took it for baseline dyno fall 2010 before I strip down the car.

pictures taken in Sept 2010 before stripping her down.







heading off to be painted, shaved & kit install
Jan 2011 car is back from the shop




NA gsr installed with wire tuck, brake like tuck, suspension and heading off to shop for turbo fab & tune


back home & tuned august 2011




stock gsr + gsr hydro tranny
obd1 + crome 972
gt3540s turbo
mini-ram manifold
3" dp with custom 70mm ecutout
rsr exhaust
progress CSII coilvers
and a bunch of other stuff
drag, street and road racing application:
160whp & 119tq stock
260whp & 215tq @ 6psi = full boost @ 4500rpms
325whp & 225tq @ 10psi = full boost @ 4600rpms
395whp & 275tq @ 16-17psi = full boost @ 4800rpms



Last edited by Charlie Moua; Apr 16, 2014 at 08:05 AM.
i did get many of my inspiration from fellow hatch memebers Eric's EFf ....
I've chatted with him on/off for past 8yrs and and help keep my build going.
There are countless ef/eg/ek builds that i've also gotten ideas from.
But for the most part I always knew how i wanted my ef to be since 2006 or so, it was all about sticking with it until the funds became available and I belived I knew enough to really tackle any issues this build would have along the way.
I've chatted with him on/off for past 8yrs and and help keep my build going.
There are countless ef/eg/ek builds that i've also gotten ideas from.
But for the most part I always knew how i wanted my ef to be since 2006 or so, it was all about sticking with it until the funds became available and I belived I knew enough to really tackle any issues this build would have along the way.
Last edited by Charlie Moua; Dec 21, 2012 at 07:08 AM.
erics hatch was one of my favorite because body kits isnt everyones cup of tea. growing up, both my brothers hatch wings west on their hatch and crx's. he's been in and out of thread over the years too. his car is well executed. ive always wonder why your car looked so similar to his
haha
haha
Unfortunately no updates about finding my car. IF i had a garage to keep whatever is left of my car I would keep it , but I need something functional as that was my DD I don't have time to rebuild as much as I would love to and come back harder with my DA , but I will be moving on to an EG hatch build I should be getting my new whip hopefully by end of this month, then start that build around Feb. maybe March funds will surely be low as I am hussling to get funds for the new ride as we speak I will have my cash in about 2 weeks or so. I will keep you guys posted and thanks for the security ideas alarm is the first thing I will get..followed by NRG quick release hub and I will add more layers of security for sure. Thanks guys for your support and advice. This why I love this crew
longest project ever
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,494
Likes: 2
From: on the south side of dixie, 1986 Accord Hatch



F@#@#### rat bastards!!! all i can do now is wait and see if the popo will find my ride. Not how i was planning on ending the year with.