wilham320

iTrader: (1)

18g is super tiny for a high amp fan motor.... the amperage was to much causing the hot wire. Wire it up with some decent wire with a relay and a 30amp fuse. Use the stock power wire going to the fan to activate the relay, then run a separate power from the juction box, and a nice ground.

90civichbsi

iTrader: (1)

i recently got the 13" spal fan and the difference was night and day.

my old setup: EBAY 12" and a custom fiberglass shroud I made.
this setup worked fine around town but temps would start to creep on the highway after the engine bay got heat soaked.

new setup: 13" spal and a custom sheet aluminuim shroud I made
No problems with keeping temps down at all and the fan doesnt need to stay on nearly as long as the old setup.

I would sell the old setup if anyone is interested. would work fine on an NA car as is. But would probably work very well with a spal 12" or something along those lines for a turbo car.

ahobbs

something is wrong with the fan

wrong, fal fan is a stock replacement. It's a 9 amp fan. and can handle a 10amp fuse. just like stock.

Spal fan is a 18amp fan, that fan is high output and would require or (would perform the best) with a thicker gauge wire. i used 10gauge on mine and it's work great for months now not popped one fuse.

ahobbs

^^^^^i've seen 90civichbsi set up and it's a goode efficient fan and he made an awesome shroud. I pushed him to buy this fan becuase it works well and he has reaped he benefits.

dpetro1

i figured i would add that SPAL has a huge line-up of fans so if space permits there may be higher flowing fans available. i think we have gravitated to the 13" because its still fits the radiator and it fairly slim.

just trying to keep an open mind

legomytego

is everybody buying the spal pullers or has anybody used the pushers i have my fan setup as a pusher right now and the car is over heating while going down the highway id like to keep it as a pusher but if its not going to do the job ill swap it just wanna order the right one thanks guys.

90civichbsi

iTrader: (1)

as far as puller fans this is the 13" most people buy

http://www.the-fan-man.com/shop/size....html?cPath=33

bigD

when building a shroud is there a distance that that works best between the shroud and the radiator. It looks like most are 1/2 inch to a inch away and sealed all the way around correct?

dpetro1

the pusher equivalent to the fan we use is spal part# 30102045 and is rated at 1642cfm http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102045

wilham320

iTrader: (1)

]
Misread the FAL Part.... thought he was talking about the SPAL.

legomytego

do you think it will work well enough as a pusher ? i just dont wanna order it then the car still overheat cause its not as efficient as the puller would be.

dpetro1

im sure it would be a major upgrade but dont think that just putting on a better fan is the be all end all. you still need to make sure your radiator is getting some airflow at speed. my experience was that even the puller fan was unable to keep up in 90* weather on the highway after about 1 hour. hybridcivicls-t's setup is pretty much the ideal way to ensure the car will not overheat (fan w/ shroud, vented hood, cut bumper, the works)

EARLdaSQUIRREL

just ordered the fan from the-fan-man, looking forward to cooler ect's

legomytego

same here i hope it takes care of my problem for now i went all last year with some cheap *** 12 inch fan autox my car and everything now it wants to over heat. going back to read the thread over loads of info in here.

wade

iTrader: (1)

fan kicks ***. Is there anyway that when it is ON, I dont have such a drastic battery/amperage draw from the car?


any ways to cure it? higher output alternator?

96 GSR-T

Are you using a relay with large wire to power your fan?




I saw some pretty nasty ECT's (220ish) last year in the summer so I am going to have to do something about it..... this 13" spal and a shroud sounds like a winner.

tony1

Actually, people gravitated to the 13" Spal because I put one on my car and shared the results.

Boosted_Coupe

Lot's of great information, thank's guy's!

ahobbs

that's why i got it. I fussed and complained about paying for it but it was the only resolution for my car.

HiProfile

For a puller setup, at least 1" is ideal, but 1/2" is still far better than no shroud. Sealing it will help too, but you don't need to go crazy. The area and pressure drop of a thick rad means an unsealed shroud won't affect temps enough to notice.


Blanket, wrap, or shroud. Shrouds don't affect looks, holes make it looked rigged to EVERYONE, wraps & blankets show your **** is so awsome you have to sheild it from ninja spies. However 203F isn't super hot. At 1bar (0psig) water boils at ~212F, but MUCh higher a normal car coolant system due to pressure & antifreeze. Speaking of glycol, using less increases cooling capcaity.

BB6-213

subscribed

Turbo-charged

getting ready to use this fan in 4 different cars including my own. im done with dealing with shitty fan/cooling set ups lol

dpetro1

lol, good point. props to hybridcivicls-t for taking the time to post up datalogs and take some sweet one handed pics of his laptop while in boost too. that data helped alot.

damn ninjas, ill never let them see my gt30r turbine, im wrapping that **** up immediately. i didnt really mind 203F but i know it would have continued to creep the longer i drove.

ahobbs

i didnt really mind 203F but i know it would have continued to creep the longer i drove.[/quote]


i do! shouldn't go above 195 IMO

Boosted_Coupe

So the correct part number for this fan is 30102044