Zerograv

Thank you very much. I guess this fan is worth considering as well. I am considering either switching to a full size radiator or just going with a Spal 13"fan. My car sees the circuit and uphill climbs a couple of times in a year.

Would you say that the Spal 13" fan on a half size aluminum radiator performs the same as a full size radiator?

I have been asking around for the prices here and it's pretty close.

Thanks very much.

ahobbs

spal fan with a "good" shroud will do the trick. no need for a full size radiator. doesnt hurt but you dont need it.

HiProfile

You'd really want 2 fans, a wide enough shroud, or a heat sheild if you wanted to run a full rad at a higher cooling level than the half rad. Not forcing air though half the fins will not help cooling, and definately hurt cooling if you ahve a manifold/DP/wastegate radiating heat back into the cooling system.

BTW That 'monster spal' in the vid, is that the 1720cfm High Performance version? I'd hate to hear what the louder straight-bladed fans sound like

ahobbs

it says 1710 but yes you get the point. i dont care about how loud it is i want effective cooling. every since ive had this fan i havent seen temps over 188 crusing 192 boosting.

HiProfile

Oh I keep thinking its a 14", since that's the one I'm looking at getting. I was thinking of doing a puher setup with the 1280cfm fan, I'd thikn that would be sufficient for an engine bay with all coated/wrapped parts.

88ED8

I need one of these fans...

ahobbs

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh I keep thinking its a 14", since that's the one I'm looking at getting. I was thinking of doing a puher setup with the 1280cfm fan, I'd thikn that would be sufficient for an engine bay with all coated/wrapped parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think this 1 13in fan will work better. IMO this is the perfect set up and it's obvious it works. i've showen proof and everything. this is the simple answer for cooling issues.

dpetro1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So for a working fan setup, it should be:

BLK/RED (rad fan connector) = 86
BLK (rad fan connector) = 85
user's 20A fused +12vdc = 30
user's wire to SPAL Red/+12vdc = 87
SPAL Black/GND = Chassic Ground
</TD></TR></TABLE>

can you please re-explain or draw a diagram for this? i cant picture what you are trying to say. what runs to a12? i want to have my s300 turn on the fan.

also can terminal 30 go straight to the battery? (fused of course). if not where should i get constant power from for that?

ahobbs

A12 goes directly to 85. 30 is the 12v constant. basically it's a continuation from 87

dpetro1

ok, so where are you pulling your constant 12v source? could i tap right into the positive battery cable (kinda like a car audio install?)

EDIT: should i go ahead and toss a diode inline with a12 if i follow your diagram? or are they not completely necessary?

ahobbs

yes you can get it directly from the battery. that's what i did. I did my set up exactly like that. make sure your conditions are correct in hondata other wise it wont work correctly.

i bypassed stock because it wasn't working properly anyway so if you do my set up yes. keeps the current going 1 direction

dpetro1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HybridcivicLS-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

in s300 go to parameters click

Nitrous/Aux1

function.....scroll down to "generic output"
the area should be usable now

click the output tab which will give you "output contol"
scroll down A12 FANC (Radiator fan control)

the conditions,
then you can change what temp you want the fan to come on.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

last question. do you have to adjust the input tab at all? also do you need to define all conditions (rpm, speed, etc) or just ECT?

ahobbs

no, just output.

yes on defining the conditions. not sure what yours is set up to but if the conditions aren't ripe it could come on when you don't want it to.

i'll show you my set up so you have an idea.

dpetro1

EDIT: ^^^^^exactly what i was thinking

yeah a screen print would be cool. i mean i assume you can just make some of the parameters extreme so you are always within range

ex: RPM 0-12000 so that condition is always met. just do something similar for all of them. then ECT can be like 185-250*

HiProfile

Anyone know offhand if the SPAL fans are reversable? Unless the brushes/armatrue aren't at 0*, most fans just need polarity reversed and the blades flipped. I'll probably end up calling SPAL, since I may need a puller if I can't quite fit the pusher in (which looks like thats the case).

ahobbs

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone know offhand if the SPAL fans are reversable? Unless the brushes/armatrue aren't at 0*, most fans just need polarity reversed and the blades flipped. I'll probably end up calling SPAL, since I may need a puller if I can't quite fit the pusher in (which looks like thats the case).</TD></TR></TABLE>

no not reversible. at least there not suppose to be. I've called them and they have explained each fan works the way it does for a reason.

dpetro1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HybridcivicLS-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no not reversible. at least there not suppose to be. I've called them and they have explained each fan works the way it does for a reason.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah normally i'd asy they were but they list different part numbers for each and the motor doesnt look as easily accessible as some of the other slim fans

dpetro1

ok guys my fan is wired and working. only thing is it comes on as soon as i turn the ignition to "on" regardless of parameters. do these settings look acceptable?

[IMG][/IMG]

also should i check disable or always on in the input tab? also do i need to invert the output or leave it checked?


Modified by dpetro1 at 2:46 PM 11/2/2008

HiProfile

You might want to try inverting it. If thats the case, it will want to be off when cold & on at 185F. You might also have the wires crossed on the relay's outpt pins.

Disable ignores all parameters and keeps it off, always on means its always looking at those parameters to turn it on or off.

dpetro1

double checked wiring and its good. if i invert output it stays on regardless of temp. if i uncheck invert output it turns off.

what am i missing?

ahobbs

I'll check for you. I forgot i deleted it out of my photobucket

dpetro1

cool thanks. just seems weird that inverting the output turns the fan on and off. doesnt seem to be affected by parameters at all

ahobbs

nah i dont think i did. sorry im at work and get distracted. let me grab my laptop

ahobbs

ARMING INPUT
Input: ALWAYS ON

nothing shouldn't be checked in the input tab

on the OUTPUT TAB

invert output should not be checked

dc2turbo

Where are you all buying the spal 13in fans from?