B18c1turboedEK

iTrader: (1)

Running this setup do u need to notch your block??? im trying to keep ac so i dont wanna flip turbo over???

thanks guys

queez

yes you will need to notch the block..

FredoSP

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by queez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes you will need to notch the block.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think you might be wrong. With the Precision Turbo and a B16 + inline pro manifold you will need to grind the block down because the deck height is smaller than the B18.

I remember Art posted a side by side comparison, but if you have a B18 with a 5 bolt turbine housing then no.

Heres the post
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=402894

I think the turbomafia.com server us down so pics wont work until its back up.

Ri5e

There are two versions of the Inline Pro T3 Manifold, one for the 5 bolt and the 2nd version is more offset for the 4 bolt downpipe flanged turbo's

I had an inline pro manifold with a T04e (.60 A/R compressor housing) housing on the B20 block with LS head and I had to notch it, but VERY slightly.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Ive test fitted a SC34-E with a Revhard mani, which is the same dimensions as the inline pro mani to a B18C1 block. When clocked for maximum fit it had zero clearance. The manifold flange was flush against the head and the compressor housing was touching the block webbing.

So I have no idea how a bigger turbo would fit without notching. Ill try to get some pics up this weekend.

FredoSP

umm 4 bolt or 5 bolt, I think that makes a difference.

Taken from Art's post (no pics and I left some things out).

I want to clear up some things up on the Garrett 4-bolt Vs. the Ford style 5 bolt that most turbo companies like Precision, Turbonetics and Innovative use. In this thread I would like to show you how the 4 bolt differs from the Ford style 5 bolt and show you how the offset changes some things. I will also talk about what manifolds work best with what style of turbo. As we have seen very recently with people having to cut and shave alot off the blocks just to get thier turbo to work.
The turbine housing players
-Garret .48 A/R 4 Bolt with InlinePRO manifold
-Precision .63 A/R 5-Bolt InlinePRO manifold

Here we have picture of my car running the InlinePro manifold and a Precision turbo that has a 5 bolt Ford style turbine. As you can see there is alot of clearances between the compressor housing and the block

So as you can see using the 4-bolt is kind of a problem. So what are your options? Your cheapest option is to change out the 4-bolt into a 5-bolt. Your next option is to sell the entire 4-bolt turbo and buy one from me. jk.(need some humor).

If you are running a Max-rev manifold you will be fine running the 4-bolt because that manifold was designed off the Garrett 4-bolt. If you use Rev-hard/ InlinePRO you will have to cut and shave a lot off. Im not sure about drag. I do recall dustin not being able to use the max-rev manifold with the 5-bolt and use stock fans and this is why.

Hope this helps some.

art

B18c1turboedEK

iTrader: (1)

Well turbo wont fit with out notching the block.. and its a real tight fit in there.....

onetwothree

I went to inline pro the other day and talked about this same matter. He said that with the e cover sc61 you wouldn't have to notch the block. But with the s cover you would have to alot. He also said that I could get the s cover and t4 manifold, drill holes in it to make it fit the t3 turbine and would be ok. hth

queez

told you, you would have to.

Arturbo

With the B18C/ B18B you wont need to notch it that much. It really depends how you clock the turbo too. I assure you that its alot less then other manifolds out there. The fit is one of the best on the market.

With the B16 you'll have to cut alot off...


art

BlueSi2k

with b16/inlinepro/sc34 i had to notch slightly...not too much though. Less than 5 min with a cuttoff wheel and air compressor

Silverhatch

yeah good choice on the inline mani...