RWD H22 project has commenced
2nd Coolest Person in DFW
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 749
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From: Dallas, TX, United States
Re: RWD H22 project has commenced (MassScene)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MassScene »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You ever try to push a car in gear? Its much easier in neutral isnt it. The only way to have to engines benefit the car is to have to engines at the same horspower (as close as possible). Or the more powerful power/drive train will be pushing/pulling an extra load (the less powerful wheels and the engine there attatched to.
get it? i think we have beat this friggin subject to death. If i were TINKER i wouldnt even bo posting any more. you hooligans dont even appreciate it. your arguing is seriously taking away from the knowledge, craftsmanship, and patience of this awesome project that you all can ONLY ARGUE about.
Modified by MassScene at 10:59 AM 2/4/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
im no rocket scientist here, but saying that the 2 motors would have to be identical in horsepower is foolish. one motor may be accelerating the car more, but as long as the other motor isnt so incredibly out accelerated by the stronger motor, then it really doesnt make a difference. if you strap a stock d16 into a top fuel dragster, then YES, you will have a problem with one motor dragging the other one along. but here is the deal, as long as the less powerful motor can accelerate itself and the drivetrain, with no load on it as fast as the other engine is accelerating the vehicle, then the other engine will not have to drag the other motor up to speed. and as the gears get longer, this only slightly relavant predicament will be increasingly diminished, to the point where it will become essentiallt non existant (definetely by the time 3rd gear is reached).
take THAT, from a non engineering student, physics master
and not to forget the subject of the post, THAT is a sweet project car 
You ever try to push a car in gear? Its much easier in neutral isnt it. The only way to have to engines benefit the car is to have to engines at the same horspower (as close as possible). Or the more powerful power/drive train will be pushing/pulling an extra load (the less powerful wheels and the engine there attatched to.
get it? i think we have beat this friggin subject to death. If i were TINKER i wouldnt even bo posting any more. you hooligans dont even appreciate it. your arguing is seriously taking away from the knowledge, craftsmanship, and patience of this awesome project that you all can ONLY ARGUE about.
Modified by MassScene at 10:59 AM 2/4/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
im no rocket scientist here, but saying that the 2 motors would have to be identical in horsepower is foolish. one motor may be accelerating the car more, but as long as the other motor isnt so incredibly out accelerated by the stronger motor, then it really doesnt make a difference. if you strap a stock d16 into a top fuel dragster, then YES, you will have a problem with one motor dragging the other one along. but here is the deal, as long as the less powerful motor can accelerate itself and the drivetrain, with no load on it as fast as the other engine is accelerating the vehicle, then the other engine will not have to drag the other motor up to speed. and as the gears get longer, this only slightly relavant predicament will be increasingly diminished, to the point where it will become essentiallt non existant (definetely by the time 3rd gear is reached).
take THAT, from a non engineering student, physics master and not to forget the subject of the post, THAT is a sweet project car
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,775
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From: Danbury, CT, 06804
Re: RWD H22 project has commenced (Jaker)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just run the coolant through the chassis tubing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
good call cuz im sure that wouldnt rust out the mild steal chassis.
good call cuz im sure that wouldnt rust out the mild steal chassis.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,426
Likes: 0
From: Prescott Arizona
Re: RWD H22 project has commenced (KraZEtEggIE)
Cody, Honestly man, its looking great. Maybe this will finally hush up some of your honda-tech critics (you know what I am talking about) your work is looking outstanding. Keep it up Cody.
Robert
Robert
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 5,273
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From: Traverse City, Michigan, USA
Re: RWD H22 project has commenced (Optiks.)
yep, under the car in their own Aluminum tubing, same with heater core hoses(I need heat!). I actually ran into a rather large hiccup when I mounted the radiator...
Because I mounted the engine assembly so high in the car(the trunk is around 6 inches talller than the engine bay, plus I didnt want the engine to be the low spot), the radiator is now ALOT lower than the engine. This is not good if its to be a fill point(wont fill the head, unless I can pressurize the coolant, and hurry up and close the lid while filling). SO, Im going to have to make some sort of fill resevoir coming off the engine, going to somewhere easy to get access to, and use that to fill the cooling system. Now that I think about it, I think the RWD Sol of Option2 had to do this exact same thing. No biggie, just a lil more work!
Because I mounted the engine assembly so high in the car(the trunk is around 6 inches talller than the engine bay, plus I didnt want the engine to be the low spot), the radiator is now ALOT lower than the engine. This is not good if its to be a fill point(wont fill the head, unless I can pressurize the coolant, and hurry up and close the lid while filling). SO, Im going to have to make some sort of fill resevoir coming off the engine, going to somewhere easy to get access to, and use that to fill the cooling system. Now that I think about it, I think the RWD Sol of Option2 had to do this exact same thing. No biggie, just a lil more work!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,905
Likes: 3
From: Lansdale, PA
Re: RWD H22 project has commenced (Tinker219)
look in jegs catalog they sell things like this...."filler necks" and they have ones that ae ready to be welded onto existing or custom piping.
Re: (Tinker219)
Man this thing is FLYING together.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tinker219 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I get my flanges(SUnday).
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YAY!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tinker219 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I get my flanges(SUnday).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
YAY!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
From: AZ
Re: (lsintegra95)
this thing is coming along sooo so sooo nicely.....i can't wait to see it finished.....oh and those lenso's look sick as hell on that thing even without tires.....bumpin it up again...good **** tinker
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 267
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From: Ottawa, Canada
Re: RWD H22 project has commenced (Tinker219)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tinker219 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yep, under the car in their own Aluminum tubing, same with heater core hoses(I need heat!). I actually ran into a rather large hiccup when I mounted the radiator...
Because I mounted the engine assembly so high in the car(the trunk is around 6 inches talller than the engine bay, plus I didnt want the engine to be the low spot), the radiator is now ALOT lower than the engine. This is not good if its to be a fill point(wont fill the head, unless I can pressurize the coolant, and hurry up and close the lid while filling).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Or, you could simply jack the front end one or 2 feet off the ground for the original coolant system fill. The coolant would flow down the hoses to the motor, then you fire it up, bleed it to get the air-lock(s) out, then install the rad cap.
Sometimes the simple way is right in front of you......
Because I mounted the engine assembly so high in the car(the trunk is around 6 inches talller than the engine bay, plus I didnt want the engine to be the low spot), the radiator is now ALOT lower than the engine. This is not good if its to be a fill point(wont fill the head, unless I can pressurize the coolant, and hurry up and close the lid while filling).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Or, you could simply jack the front end one or 2 feet off the ground for the original coolant system fill. The coolant would flow down the hoses to the motor, then you fire it up, bleed it to get the air-lock(s) out, then install the rad cap.
Sometimes the simple way is right in front of you......
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,775
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From: Danbury, CT, 06804
you should just modify the coolant thing on the head to make it where you have a fill there and a nipple to goto an overflow tank since you cant have an overflow tank in the front.
Re: (TheShocker)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheShocker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a pair of Diamond Racing Wheels. They're some sturdy-*** wheels!!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have some racing wheels with some M/T Slicks on them, but I don't know what kind they are. They kinda look like that, but they have a red pinstripe around the rim...think they might be diamond racing wheels too?
</TD></TR></TABLE>I have some racing wheels with some M/T Slicks on them, but I don't know what kind they are. They kinda look like that, but they have a red pinstripe around the rim...think they might be diamond racing wheels too?
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 495
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From: Bay Area, CA
Re: (DaX)
out of curiosity... how do u plan to take teh car off the blocks and jack stands... maybe a dumb question but i don;t see any jacks that high for you to raise the car and then lower it...
