<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KraZEtEggIE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
good call cuz im sure that wouldnt rust out the mild steal chassis.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oxygen is needed for rust. no O2, no rust.

 

Oh man you are flying with this fabrication. And i love those rims too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridvteceg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

oxygen is needed for rust. no O2, no rust.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It'll rust, just slower than if it was constantly exposed to the atmosphere. Also, dont forget what the O stands for in H2O... Plus, radiators and blocks rust so I dont think there would be a reason the frame rail wouldn't rust also....

I still dont like the idea anyhow....

 

aluminum coolant tubes, just like a fiero, i think he mentioned it on like page 2.

-Dustin

 

cynderblocks are not good jack stands . they will crumble

Nice welding

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It'll rust, just slower than if it was constantly exposed to the atmosphere. Also, dont forget what the O stands for in H2O... Plus, radiators and blocks rust so I dont think there would be a reason the frame rail wouldn't rust also....

I still dont like the idea anyhow....</TD></TR></TABLE>


Don't forget water also has free O radicals in it all the time. That's how fish breathe.

I would run rubber hoses, or SS lines intead of tubing. Just run it through what's left of the original exhaust tunnel.

 

yea cody said he was using aluminum tubes, but some1 else said that cody should just use frame rails for rad tubes. seems like a good idea. i dont think he has much room left in the exhaust tunnel, he already has shift linkages there. of course i think thats the only place he really can run them. tight fit isnt a bad thing unless things are touching.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Benbuilt4u &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cynderblocks are not good jack stands . they will crumble </TD></TR></TABLE>

We build homes on them...I figure if they can hold a house, they can hold a 3000 pound car.

 

its less than 1500 with an empty engine
Ya, good point whoever said to just jack the front of the car up! lol. Oh well, Id like to be bale to fill the coolant if the need arises on a road trip or something.
Got the door to door dash bar done yesturday, today Im finishing up everything else on the chassis until I get the call to go pick up my flanges. Then its mad thrashing with manifolds.

 

Kinda OT, but heres a Vid of the Peon...12-13 psi...its short:
Right click save as please
http://www.inductionperformanc...4.wmv
Right click save as please

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

We build homes on them...I figure if they can hold a house, they can hold a 3000 pound car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

When you build in them there's cement involved and you don't stack them that way.

 

WOW!! that car is like nothing and then all sorts of power isnt it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TREVER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you build in them there's cement involved and you don't stack them that way.</TD></TR></TABLE>
dude, if I can pick the car up, they arent holding that much weight. Drop the damn jackstand subject already.... thank ya!
Ya, the Peon is pretty nuts at the top end of the powerband.
The first pass was from 2nd to 3rd gear, 2nd pass 1st to 2nd(if youd call that a pass).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tinker219 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude, if I can pick the car up, they arent holding that much weight. Drop the damn jackstand subject already.... thank ya!</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol

 

sorry knew a man who died cause he used cinder blockers just dont lay under it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KraZEtEggIE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea cody said he was using aluminum tubes, but some1 else said that cody should just use frame rails for rad tubes. seems like a good idea. i dont think he has much room left in the exhaust tunnel, he already has shift linkages there. of course i think thats the only place he really can run them. tight fit isnt a bad thing unless things are touching. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I would just run the hoses through the tubes then. You wouldn't want corrosion getting at those tubes for a length of time. Also having long wide pathways is going to create air pockets. .

Cody would you mind posting pics of the underside please?

 

Make me one next

 

Here is an idea for the coolant hoses. Why dont you run a metal tube alongside the chassis tubing and put the coolant hoses inside of that tube? You could weld the "coolant tube" to the chassis tube. This way the chassis would not have to be messed with if something went wrong with the coolant. You could maybe even just bolt one tube to the next so that you would be able to disconnect one from the other if need be.

Just an idea.

 

Also, I think you should use the same size wheels all around. I think you were saying something like a 15 in the front and a 13 in the back. I think that would just look really weird, and take away from the car....just try and picture it in your head

 

If you haven't solved your low radiator problem I have the answer for you. Add an air sepator(japanese say "aerator") high in the engine bay. This will be your fill point and air relief point. The raditor fill point will either have to closed or you will need a non-bypass radiator cap. Look at an FD3S RX-7 setup for visualization.

 

maybe I'm overlooking the obvious here, but why put the larger wheels in the front of a rwd car? BTW, can't say that your fab skills are anything but impressive, esp. when coupled w/ your in depth knowledge of what you're doing... feel like i'm begging for a grade. anyways, looks tight, keep it up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dd_biggy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe I'm overlooking the obvious here, but why put the larger wheels in the front of a rwd car? BTW, can't say that your fab skills are anything but impressive, esp. when coupled w/ your in depth knowledge of what you're doing... feel like i'm begging for a grade. anyways, looks tight, keep it up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I meant larger wheels in the front and smaller tires. Smaller wheels in the back, and LARGER tires. Like a 75 sidewall. We will see. I had a good friend point out that Kuhmo makes a 235/45/13 today...I might have to jump on that, because those Lenso's are staying on the car reguardless now
Coolant lines are settled, AL tubing(which is already cut) paired w/misc. flex hose going from the engine to the tubing, and from the rad. to the tubing.

Today I finished the chassis work. Tomorrow, running the coolant lines, and mounting the gas tank. Then its on wheels and waiting for a fresh engine to be raised into it! No flanges yet, so thisll give me the time I need to get the car out of my way(customer cars are becoming more prevalent).

 

the fab work on the front end looks great!!! I was wondering if it was even going to line up at all. shouldn't of second guessed you!!! looks great !!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

the suspension is close enough for who its for. The front down bars are a lil off from eachother, but who gives a **** not like its a customer car or anything. Its w/in a 1/4", my pre-determined tolerance, so therefore its a-ok

 

i think the smaller rim in the rear is just going to look rediculous, regardless of tire size. Just get a set of 15s, throw the 13s i nthe front. but it's ur car

any new pics?