The Official SOHC Supercharger thread...
I am wondering what other JRSCed d-series people are seeing for IATs. I know most people are lowering temps with W/M injection but only when boosting. My IATs are high just driving (example: ambient temps in the 60s my IATs will climb to 190s, 70s put me over 200 and summer temps here climb into the 100s). Just curious about what others are seeing for unboosted temps. I daily my car about 85 miles per day and I'm at 70-75 mph and 3200-3300 rpms most of the way. When I slow down below 2000 rpms the temps do drop into the 160-180 range. I know I have some tuning left to do but I'm not sure what could be adjusted to lower these temps. I am monitering temps with the Hondata S300 I installed when I put the super charger in my CRX in January so I don't have a reference point without the charger.
Please list IATs boosted and unboosted with ambient temps while driving 30+ miles in the 3000-3500 rpm range.
I would love to do the LHT upgrade, but I know they have stopped working on d-series manifolds.
Yes I have read this entire thread and the other JRSC thread while I was gathering parts last year and if this was covered I don't remember it, but the information I took notes on made the install pretty straight forward without "surprises".
Please list IATs boosted and unboosted with ambient temps while driving 30+ miles in the 3000-3500 rpm range.
I would love to do the LHT upgrade, but I know they have stopped working on d-series manifolds.
Yes I have read this entire thread and the other JRSC thread while I was gathering parts last year and if this was covered I don't remember it, but the information I took notes on made the install pretty straight forward without "surprises".
http://www.d-series.org/forums/force...tercooler.html
something im busy with.
I had to work yesterday and my IATs got up to 216 degrees on the commute in. I read your post and had already looked at the bypass valve and could see it working(I thought), but apparently the valve was letting pressure off after it opened the butterfly which resulted in the butterfly staying closed most of the time and running the commpressed air almost constantly causing the high heat.
I had one zip tie in my car so before I left work I secured the valve open and the IATs on the way home only climbed to 130 degrees. I had no boost but I am very pleased that I have the answer now.
I am waiting for Moss Motors to open(Pacific Time Zone) to find out if the bypass valve they sell(#999-050 for $88.08) will work for a D-series charger, I think it does, and if so will have them send one to me to replace the faulty one.
Does anyone know if the valve can be changed without removing the charger, it looks like you can, but it is very tight in there.
Swich, I have been following your thread on DSO also
Well the new valve is installed now and is performing like it should. I ordered it from Moss Motors for $88.08(kind of high for what it is)+ shipping and tried to install it Wednesday but one of the dome style allen bolts that hold it in place rounded out so I removed it Saturday by filing some flat sides on the bolt and clamping on a set of Vice Grips and was able to break it loose and remove it. I was also able to replace the bypass valve without removing the supercharger, it is not easy to do but it can be done by removing the nut that holds the bypass valve's pushrod bracket to the stud that opens and closes the butterfly valve. My IATs now come down after a pull instead of staying high.
Yes, that is all I replaced, I am going to check the old valve when I get a vacuum pump from a friend to see if it has a leak or if the problem is the spring.
fellas i need your help!! my new engine wont start! it cranks and sputter a little bit but doesn't fire up I decided not to install my FMU because someone mentioned I don't need it anymore because i've had my ECU tuned, could not installing it prevent my engine from starting? where are the proper hose connections for all the S/C hoses?
(my ECU was tuned while the FMU was installed)
(my ECU was tuned while the FMU was installed)
If you were tuned with the FMU, and now you've removed the FMU, you need a new tune. Plain and simple. You will also need bigger injectors.
However, your engine should still start. There are several reasons why your engine might not be starting. The 1st thing I would check is to make sure the wiring harness ground that attaches to the thermostat housing is bolted on and tight. It's a 10mm headed bolt, and there are usually 3 black wires that come together in a brass ring terminal that goes under the head of the bolt.
If that's not the problem, we need a ton more info to be able to diagnose your situation.
However, your engine should still start. There are several reasons why your engine might not be starting. The 1st thing I would check is to make sure the wiring harness ground that attaches to the thermostat housing is bolted on and tight. It's a 10mm headed bolt, and there are usually 3 black wires that come together in a brass ring terminal that goes under the head of the bolt.
If that's not the problem, we need a ton more info to be able to diagnose your situation.
If you were tuned with the FMU, and now you've removed the FMU, you need a new tune. Plain and simple. You will also need bigger injectors.
However, your engine should still start. There are several reasons why your engine might not be starting. The 1st thing I would check is to make sure the wiring harness ground that attaches to the thermostat housing is bolted on and tight. It's a 10mm headed bolt, and there are usually 3 black wires that come together in a brass ring terminal that goes under the head of the bolt.
If that's not the problem, we need a ton more info to be able to diagnose your situation.
However, your engine should still start. There are several reasons why your engine might not be starting. The 1st thing I would check is to make sure the wiring harness ground that attaches to the thermostat housing is bolted on and tight. It's a 10mm headed bolt, and there are usually 3 black wires that come together in a brass ring terminal that goes under the head of the bolt.
If that's not the problem, we need a ton more info to be able to diagnose your situation.
Its just good to know not installing the FMU wouldn't prevent it from running so I can trouble shoot from there.
That assumes you didn't mess up the fuel line or vacuum line plumbing when you removed the FMU. Why don't you fire off a couple photos of your engine bay and post them up here so we can have a look? Take a couple close ups of the area around the OEM FPR. Is your ECU currently set up to read boost? Is your MAP sensor plumbed correctly for boost?
That assumes you didn't mess up the fuel line or vacuum line plumbing when you removed the FMU. Why don't you fire off a couple photos of your engine bay and post them up here so we can have a look? Take a couple close ups of the area around the OEM FPR. Is your ECU currently set up to read boost? Is your MAP sensor plumbed correctly for boost?
my ECU was switched to OBD1 from OBD2 and was tuned with the S/C, and my MAP sensor is also wired in for boost.
Show me! I've never seen or heard of those numbers coming from a JRSC setup, wether intercooled or not, unless there's a 150 shot of nitrous in there too. Even then... The highest non-nitrous numbers I've seen with the JRSC kits are right at the 300whp mark.
Yes, there are some things holding my setup back. I addressed most of them in my previous post.
Yes, there are some things holding my setup back. I addressed most of them in my previous post.
so i finally got it to run! had a coolant leak I have to take care of before its totally back to business.
my M45 blower might need a rebuild kit tho
so I was doing some research on Eatons site and apparently the M62 blower is the same physical dimensions.. does anyone know if all the mounting locations are the same? can I use an M62 of the GM motors?
my M45 blower might need a rebuild kit tho
so I was doing some research on Eatons site and apparently the M62 blower is the same physical dimensions.. does anyone know if all the mounting locations are the same? can I use an M62 of the GM motors?
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^^
The m62 case is longer by a few inches and the mounting area has a larger footprint.
The gm older m62 could be converted but it would require a lot of work, I'm pretty sure you could reuse your m45 nose cone.
The m62 case is longer by a few inches and the mounting area has a larger footprint.
The gm older m62 could be converted but it would require a lot of work, I'm pretty sure you could reuse your m45 nose cone.
Got a question with a jrsc setup im looking at.
Hes selling just the supercharger, manifold and throttle body
what else is needed to get it on and running? I know about fuel and tuning just never worked with a supercharger before only turbo setups but just looking for something for my DD
Hes selling just the supercharger, manifold and throttle body
what else is needed to get it on and running? I know about fuel and tuning just never worked with a supercharger before only turbo setups but just looking for something for my DD
Got a question with a jrsc setup im looking at.
Hes selling just the supercharger, manifold and throttle body
what else is needed to get it on and running? I know about fuel and tuning just never worked with a supercharger before only turbo setups but just looking for something for my DD
Hes selling just the supercharger, manifold and throttle body
what else is needed to get it on and running? I know about fuel and tuning just never worked with a supercharger before only turbo setups but just looking for something for my DD
hey ppl reading all this post made me really really love what im building up ..d15b fresh from japan. and a jackson racing supercharger i bought from a close freind who went b series..im going stock d15b on stock 6psi boost i was wondering if it will have any life problems with the supercharged on the stock d15b thanx for reading and will appreciate the help... i love my EF SI SOHC JRSC
You will be fine as long as everything is good operating condition..
And EL you have a ecu tuned with the fmu?? Kind of weird isn't it? Stock injectors? Either way I would think your car should still start with or without the fmu as the fmu isn't do anything until you start to boost.....
And EL you have a ecu tuned with the fmu?? Kind of weird isn't it? Stock injectors? Either way I would think your car should still start with or without the fmu as the fmu isn't do anything until you start to boost.....
http://img19.imageshack.us/i/img0254az.jpg/
http://img339.imageshack.us/i/img0261kg.jpg/
http://img130.imageshack.us/i/img0258ip.jpg/
Gotta get it ready for the EF meet in SoCal
yea it wont line up properly still. you have to space the pulley out, mine rides one tooth off i have to put a washer to space out the s/c pulley but the shock tower is incredibly hard to pound in.
BTW got my car running finally... then two days ago my fuel pump cut out when i was driving. goddamn! it wouldn't prime on occasion after i got it running and now nothing at all. I replaced my main relay but it didn't help. looks like i need a new pump and i don't understand why it would give out like that.. still have to check if its the actual pump that died or some other electronic glitch
BTW got my car running finally... then two days ago my fuel pump cut out when i was driving. goddamn! it wouldn't prime on occasion after i got it running and now nothing at all. I replaced my main relay but it didn't help. looks like i need a new pump and i don't understand why it would give out like that.. still have to check if its the actual pump that died or some other electronic glitch
yea it wont line up properly still. you have to space the pulley out, mine rides one tooth off i have to put a washer to space out the s/c pulley but the shock tower is incredibly hard to pound in.
BTW got my car running finally... then two days ago my fuel pump cut out when i was driving. goddamn! it wouldn't prime on occasion after i got it running and now nothing at all. I replaced my main relay but it didn't help. looks like i need a new pump and i don't understand why it would give out like that.. still have to check if its the actual pump that died or some other electronic glitch
BTW got my car running finally... then two days ago my fuel pump cut out when i was driving. goddamn! it wouldn't prime on occasion after i got it running and now nothing at all. I replaced my main relay but it didn't help. looks like i need a new pump and i don't understand why it would give out like that.. still have to check if its the actual pump that died or some other electronic glitch
the pulley should just come off with pressure.. mine slid right off. try tapping it with a rubber mallet. as far as the washer thickness I'm still trying some out, I put one on that was too thick and the belt ended up one rib to far TOWARD the S/C. I am going to mill it down a little bit and try again. you also have to put a notch in the washer for the shaft spline


