The Official SOHC Supercharger thread...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
look at the STOCK dyno graph that i posted earlier of the D16y7.
i'm sure you can make 150whp with minimal work.
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Or you could try to find a Y8 head from a wrecking yard and swap it onto you Y7 block which would increase your static compression to about 10.3:1 with a 2 layer HG and either find a P2P ECU to convert to VTEC or Chipped OBD-1 with jumper harness. I know it's a little more involved than just throwing a charger on your Y7, but the gains maybe be worth it. From what I've been reading it seems that Jackson chargers love a higher static compression.
Thats just what I would do
look at the STOCK dyno graph that i posted earlier of the D16y7.
i'm sure you can make 150whp with minimal work.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Or you could try to find a Y8 head from a wrecking yard and swap it onto you Y7 block which would increase your static compression to about 10.3:1 with a 2 layer HG and either find a P2P ECU to convert to VTEC or Chipped OBD-1 with jumper harness. I know it's a little more involved than just throwing a charger on your Y7, but the gains maybe be worth it. From what I've been reading it seems that Jackson chargers love a higher static compression.
Thats just what I would do
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey guys i recently picked up at jrsc for my d16z6 the sc has some miles on it so i thought i would rebuild it before i put it on. where can i find all the bearing and seals that need to be replaced beside jackson? also is there any benfit to porting the blower or should i just smooth the edges and weld the holes next to the triangle?
thanks for any info u guys got since there isnt much out there</TD></TR></TABLE>
Call or email the guys at magnusson they can help you out with everything.
thanks for any info u guys got since there isnt much out there</TD></TR></TABLE>
Call or email the guys at magnusson they can help you out with everything.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey Rob.
The 99-00 Y8 uses a different manifold (JR part #051-647) than the earlier Y8's and A6's use (JR part #051-417) , although all Y8's use the same blower/pulley setup, while A6's use a 4-rib 3.4" blower pulley, although since it uses the same intake manifold as an earlier Y8, I'd guess that the offset of the blower pulley is the same as long as they use OEM crank pulleys with similar offsets (if A=B and B=C, then A=C, thank God for H.S. algebra!). If you have a Y8 crank pulley, then I'm guessing you'd just need an earlier Y8 or A6 manifold to make it all line up right. Unfortunately JR charges $191.67 for the new manifold.
Good luck with it,
Roger</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd like to add my 2 cents worth here. I'm offering up info on my own personal experience. All the D series blower kits from Jackson come with the 3.8" blower pulley. The 88-91 and 96-00 kits come with a 3 rib blower pulley, and yes, that is because of shock tower clearance. Also, the 88-91 only have 3 ribs on the crank pulley for the alternator drive. The 92-95s come with a 4 rib, because they don't need the extra shock tower clearance, and 4 ribs are better than 3.
All the blower pulleys (both D series and B series) are interchangeable. They all have the same offset in relation to the crank pulley. I have used 3.0", 3.4", 3.8", and I owned a 4.0" (ITR kit) blower pulley, and they all lined up the same.
The Jackson pulley that comes with the 96-00 kits is not an "upgrade" pulley. It is in actual fact a "downgrade" pulley. The OEM 96-00 Civic pulley has an effective diameter of 6.5" whereas the Jackson one is only 6.2" (I think that's what mine says). The reason for this was that they would have developped too much boost using the OEM pulley.
I don't know anything about the differences in the intake manifolds, but is it possible that the only reason for that change was to close up the hole that the IAT sensor plugs into?
I do see differences in the way the belts line up with mixing and matching blower kits/generations of chassis, but that is usually because of differences in the alternator mounting area, and can be corrected with shimming/grinding in the appropriate places.
This has been my experience, YMMV!
The 99-00 Y8 uses a different manifold (JR part #051-647) than the earlier Y8's and A6's use (JR part #051-417) , although all Y8's use the same blower/pulley setup, while A6's use a 4-rib 3.4" blower pulley, although since it uses the same intake manifold as an earlier Y8, I'd guess that the offset of the blower pulley is the same as long as they use OEM crank pulleys with similar offsets (if A=B and B=C, then A=C, thank God for H.S. algebra!). If you have a Y8 crank pulley, then I'm guessing you'd just need an earlier Y8 or A6 manifold to make it all line up right. Unfortunately JR charges $191.67 for the new manifold.
Good luck with it,
Roger</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd like to add my 2 cents worth here. I'm offering up info on my own personal experience. All the D series blower kits from Jackson come with the 3.8" blower pulley. The 88-91 and 96-00 kits come with a 3 rib blower pulley, and yes, that is because of shock tower clearance. Also, the 88-91 only have 3 ribs on the crank pulley for the alternator drive. The 92-95s come with a 4 rib, because they don't need the extra shock tower clearance, and 4 ribs are better than 3.
All the blower pulleys (both D series and B series) are interchangeable. They all have the same offset in relation to the crank pulley. I have used 3.0", 3.4", 3.8", and I owned a 4.0" (ITR kit) blower pulley, and they all lined up the same.
The Jackson pulley that comes with the 96-00 kits is not an "upgrade" pulley. It is in actual fact a "downgrade" pulley. The OEM 96-00 Civic pulley has an effective diameter of 6.5" whereas the Jackson one is only 6.2" (I think that's what mine says). The reason for this was that they would have developped too much boost using the OEM pulley.
I don't know anything about the differences in the intake manifolds, but is it possible that the only reason for that change was to close up the hole that the IAT sensor plugs into?
I do see differences in the way the belts line up with mixing and matching blower kits/generations of chassis, but that is usually because of differences in the alternator mounting area, and can be corrected with shimming/grinding in the appropriate places.
This has been my experience, YMMV!
Good info Jaques, and good to see you in this thread!As far as I know, the reason for the offset manifold on the y8 must be to counter the 99-00 crank pulley that is also inset toward the block.
That makes sence about the y8 crank pulley, as I have heard of ppl using the OEM y8 pullies for an upgrade. So basically that pulley is garbage to me I guess...
Take a look at the pics I posted above if you allready havent and tell me what you think. I know you are quite knowlegeable with JRSC's. I have the y8 kit mocked up on a D16a6 longblock and you can tell that the pulley is a ways out, I dont think shimming the alt will be able to make up the difference, its inset over 1/2" from the crank pulley and the alt.
I am gonna grab a belt tomorrow and put it on... I'll try to see if I can figure somthing out. Maybe I will try to get the y8 pulley on, shim the alt as much as I can and see how it looks. However, if I use the y8 crank pulley I will have to loose the lower timing belt cover, not really somthing I wanna do!
Thanks for the help Rob
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hey Rob.
The 99-00 Y8 uses a different manifold (JR part #051-647) than the earlier Y8's and A6's use (JR part #051-417) , although all Y8's use the same blower/pulley setup, while A6's use a 4-rib 3.4" blower pulley, although since it uses the same intake manifold as an earlier Y8, I'd guess that the offset of the blower pulley is the same as long as they use OEM crank pulleys with similar offsets (if A=B and B=C, then A=C, thank God for H.S. algebra!). If you have a Y8 crank pulley, then I'm guessing you'd just need an earlier Y8 or A6 manifold to make it all line up right. Unfortunately JR charges $191.67 for the new manifold.
Good luck with it,
Roger
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well loh and behold, looks like either the part number listing at Jackson is all messed up, or Roger is right. I went and had a look, and they do show a 4 rib 3.4" pulley for the 88-91 kits. They also show a 4.0" 3 rib for the 96-00 CX/DX/LX kits. I don't know whats up with that. The 88-91 crank pulleys only have 3 ribs on the alternator drive, so the 4 rib blower pulley would be wonky to say the least, as it would not have the high rib in the right place to help contain the belt from walking off the pulley.
Live and learn.
Hey Rob.
The 99-00 Y8 uses a different manifold (JR part #051-647) than the earlier Y8's and A6's use (JR part #051-417) , although all Y8's use the same blower/pulley setup, while A6's use a 4-rib 3.4" blower pulley, although since it uses the same intake manifold as an earlier Y8, I'd guess that the offset of the blower pulley is the same as long as they use OEM crank pulleys with similar offsets (if A=B and B=C, then A=C, thank God for H.S. algebra!). If you have a Y8 crank pulley, then I'm guessing you'd just need an earlier Y8 or A6 manifold to make it all line up right. Unfortunately JR charges $191.67 for the new manifold.
Good luck with it,
Roger
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well loh and behold, looks like either the part number listing at Jackson is all messed up, or Roger is right. I went and had a look, and they do show a 4 rib 3.4" pulley for the 88-91 kits. They also show a 4.0" 3 rib for the 96-00 CX/DX/LX kits. I don't know whats up with that. The 88-91 crank pulleys only have 3 ribs on the alternator drive, so the 4 rib blower pulley would be wonky to say the least, as it would not have the high rib in the right place to help contain the belt from walking off the pulley.
Live and learn.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">TAD is rumored to have a 180whp D15b w/ JRSC.
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My apology if this is obvious... what who is TAD?
Thanks for helping "teh n00b"
</TD></TR></TABLE>My apology if this is obvious... what who is TAD?
Thanks for helping "teh n00b"
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sundownz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My apology if this is obvious... what who is TAD?
Thanks for helping "teh n00b"
</TD></TR></TABLE>
https://honda-tech.com/zero...35574
My apology if this is obvious... what who is TAD?
Thanks for helping "teh n00b"
</TD></TR></TABLE>https://honda-tech.com/zero...35574
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Si_sol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Who has the highest or most power with a s/c on a sohc?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i was shooting for 250whp with an m62 stroker... but cost is rediculous, when i could just swap. so, im swapping.
but i still have the SOHC in my car now, beginning to tear into it and just add more boost and tuning. so, we'll see.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZacCarter »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am curious to see what streetwerkz puts down with his m62 retrofit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
10.8:1 GSR swap with m62 charger now.
i was shooting for 250whp with an m62 stroker... but cost is rediculous, when i could just swap. so, im swapping.
but i still have the SOHC in my car now, beginning to tear into it and just add more boost and tuning. so, we'll see.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZacCarter »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am curious to see what streetwerkz puts down with his m62 retrofit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
10.8:1 GSR swap with m62 charger now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well loh and behold, looks like either the part number listing at Jackson is all messed up, or Roger is right. I went and had a look, and they do show a 4 rib 3.4" pulley for the 88-91 kits. They also show a 4.0" 3 rib for the 96-00 CX/DX/LX kits. I don't know whats up with that. The 88-91 crank pulleys only have 3 ribs on the alternator drive, so the 4 rib blower pulley would be wonky to say the least, as it would not have the high rib in the right place to help contain the belt from walking off the pulley.
Live and learn.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the info. Jacques. Rob, we need to get together and compare/swap parts. The charger I have is for the 92-95, with the 4-rib pullies. As you know I am running the y8 now, but may end up building an a6 bottom end next year. I have both the stock y8 crank pulley and an Unorthodox one which is only a tad smaller than the stock y8 (not a lot but it is smaller). I think it might actually be a 6.2" but I will have to measure. The charger I got also came with a 3.4" snout pulley for the charger.
I went autoxing this weekend, so I haven't had the chance to take the intake mani off and test fit the JRSC....
Well loh and behold, looks like either the part number listing at Jackson is all messed up, or Roger is right. I went and had a look, and they do show a 4 rib 3.4" pulley for the 88-91 kits. They also show a 4.0" 3 rib for the 96-00 CX/DX/LX kits. I don't know whats up with that. The 88-91 crank pulleys only have 3 ribs on the alternator drive, so the 4 rib blower pulley would be wonky to say the least, as it would not have the high rib in the right place to help contain the belt from walking off the pulley.
Live and learn.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the info. Jacques. Rob, we need to get together and compare/swap parts. The charger I have is for the 92-95, with the 4-rib pullies. As you know I am running the y8 now, but may end up building an a6 bottom end next year. I have both the stock y8 crank pulley and an Unorthodox one which is only a tad smaller than the stock y8 (not a lot but it is smaller). I think it might actually be a 6.2" but I will have to measure. The charger I got also came with a 3.4" snout pulley for the charger.
I went autoxing this weekend, so I haven't had the chance to take the intake mani off and test fit the JRSC....

Hey guys! Great work on this very imformative thread. I have a question. I found a great deal on a 2000 d16y8 jrsc. what all will i need if anything to bolt it up to my 95 ex with a d16z6. And what are the recommended mods for tuning on a stock set up on a stock motor. I have the basic I/H/E bolt ons
I cant wait to feel the much needed tourqe!!! im excited. I was going turbo but dont want the tuning headache.
I cant wait to feel the much needed tourqe!!! im excited. I was going turbo but dont want the tuning headache.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DEVINEER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys! Great work on this very imformative thread. I have a question. I found a great deal on a 2000 d16y8 jrsc. what all will i need if anything to bolt it up to my 95 ex with a d16z6.</TD></TR></TABLE>
depends on if you bought a complete kit or not.
i would say, just the hose kit for the D16z6 without knowing for sure.
depends on if you bought a complete kit or not.
i would say, just the hose kit for the D16z6 without knowing for sure.
Hey guys! Great work on this very imformative thread. I have a question. I found a great deal on a 2000 d16y8 jrsc. what all will i need if anything to bolt it up to my 95 ex with a d16z6. And what are the recommended mods for tuning on a stock set up on a stock motor. I have the basic I/H/E bolt ons I cant wait to feel the much needed tourqe!!! im excited. I was going turbo but dont want the tuning headache
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I't's no more work to tune a turbo than it is to tune a JRSC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
true....
tuning any engine is work. but its all worth it to have a safe and stronger engine.
you might not have a shiny part to show off under the hood, but tuning is worth its weight in Gold.
true....
tuning any engine is work. but its all worth it to have a safe and stronger engine.
you might not have a shiny part to show off under the hood, but tuning is worth its weight in Gold.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
https://honda-tech.com/zero...35574</TD></TR></TABLE>
Tads 177 WHP post https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1197037
https://honda-tech.com/zero...35574</TD></TR></TABLE>
Tads 177 WHP post https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1197037
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Scracho »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Tads 177 WHP post https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1197037</TD></TR></TABLE>
tad said he was gonna post his setup in this thread. i pm'd him today.
Tads 177 WHP post https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1197037</TD></TR></TABLE>
tad said he was gonna post his setup in this thread. i pm'd him today.



