The Official SOHC Supercharger thread...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveb91 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b16 tb do bolt on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yup, the S tubes have two different stud locations. you can use a B series or D series throttle body.
yup, the S tubes have two different stud locations. you can use a B series or D series throttle body.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">possibly sold my SOHC JRSC kit today. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Dang it. I just started looking into superchargers today. If I had been quick enough I would have snagged this kit for sure.
Anyone else selling there complete supercharger kits?
Dang it. I just started looking into superchargers today. If I had been quick enough I would have snagged this kit for sure.
Anyone else selling there complete supercharger kits?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sxeguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Dang it. I just started looking into superchargers today. If I had been quick enough I would have snagged this kit for sure.
Anyone else selling there complete supercharger kits?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i know of a few others.
PM me.
Dang it. I just started looking into superchargers today. If I had been quick enough I would have snagged this kit for sure.
Anyone else selling there complete supercharger kits?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i know of a few others.

PM me.
hehehe funny you ask. well if you have all the parts and research your kit assuming your buying a used kit. Some people on here take a few hours to a day or two mine was a mess because i had miss match parts from two different kits and stuff plus the unexpected little things like fuelrails and such. Mine was a pain in the ***, so if i were you i would research it. What kit did you get? what motor you running? give us some info.
thanks
thanks
The first one I did took a couple of days, the last one took a few hours, mostly because after doing it 5-6 times I got better/faster at installing the kit. To be safe, do your first one over the weekend so you have plenty of time to re-do stuff, make trips to the hardware store for nuts/bolts, etc.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The first one I did took a couple of days, the last one took a few hours, mostly because after doing it 5-6 times I got better/faster at installing the kit. To be safe, do your first one over the weekend so you have plenty of time to re-do stuff, make trips to the hardware store for nuts/bolts, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I second that
I second that
a buddy of mine was thinking about getting a kit(new) for his d16y7
he was asking me if i would help(do it all) because he never even changed his own oil till the other day when i showed him how
so i was trying to figure out how much time i should allot for his install
he was asking me if i would help(do it all) because he never even changed his own oil till the other day when i showed him how
so i was trying to figure out how much time i should allot for his install
well if its a new kit and you have an idea on how to put it together right it shouldnt take you long at all. I can take my sc out in an hour tops by myself now lol, install it all back in an hour to lol. Where the hell is glendora? If you were close i would be able to give you a hand. They are really easy if you have all the right parts and tools. Trust me, just ask streetwerkz lol.
$2500 for a new kit is a bit steep imo. You could buy a good used kit for his year aplication throw an lht and get all the boost upgrades you need. You might even have some left over to mill the head for high compression. This is all just food for thought.
Although there a pain in the *** used kits FTW
Modified by 8atman at 4:58 PM 12/5/2006
Although there a pain in the *** used kits FTW

Modified by 8atman at 4:58 PM 12/5/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8atman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$2500 for a new kit is a bit steep imo. You could buy a good used kit for his year aplication throw an lht and get all the boost upgrades you need. You might even have some left over to mill the head for high compression. This is all just food for thought.
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My kit brand new was only $1768 brand new! Install first time for me was a day and a half taking breaks of course so I wouldnt get pissed and kick the crap out of the car!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
My kit brand new was only $1768 brand new! Install first time for me was a day and a half taking breaks of course so I wouldnt get pissed and kick the crap out of the car!!
How are you all getting these numbers, what am I doing wrong? I have had my jrsc installed for the past 50k miles, have had extensive engine work done and had it tuned on a mustang dyno, and I am only getting 140whp. Help me out, where did I go WRONG?
This is my current set-up:
D16Y8 + JRSC 6psi. pulley
Ported+Polished
Bored .030
Balanced/Blueprinted
Aries Pistons
Eagle Rods
Ferria valves
Skunk2 retainers/springs
ARP head studs
Crower Stage 2 cam
Skunk 2 adj. cam gear
AEM short ram intake
DC Sports 4-1 header
JR hi-flow cat
Thermal RD 2.5" cat-back
Fluidyne Radiator
Clutch masters clutch
ACT streetlight flywheel
Eiback springs
This is the ORIGINAL engine, that was completely rebuilt. After the rebuild it was dynoed and tuned--all they could squeeze out was 140whp.
I am running stock ECU, injectors and JR FMU. Is this what is holding me up?
I'm asking for this communities help, we all need to work as a collective.
Long live the SOHC
Modified by civicslug at 6:59 AM 12/6/2006
This is my current set-up:
D16Y8 + JRSC 6psi. pulley
Ported+Polished
Bored .030
Balanced/Blueprinted
Aries Pistons
Eagle Rods
Ferria valves
Skunk2 retainers/springs
ARP head studs
Crower Stage 2 cam
Skunk 2 adj. cam gear
AEM short ram intake
DC Sports 4-1 header
JR hi-flow cat
Thermal RD 2.5" cat-back
Fluidyne Radiator
Clutch masters clutch
ACT streetlight flywheel
Eiback springs
This is the ORIGINAL engine, that was completely rebuilt. After the rebuild it was dynoed and tuned--all they could squeeze out was 140whp.
I am running stock ECU, injectors and JR FMU. Is this what is holding me up?
I'm asking for this communities help, we all need to work as a collective.
Long live the SOHC
Modified by civicslug at 6:59 AM 12/6/2006
What Arias pistons? How many cc's? What's the piston-to-deck-height? Which Crower Stage 2's, the "Y" or the "YT"? And I'm hoping you mean bored .030 over, vice .30 over.
If you read my post I did say .030 bore. I know I'm a newb, but I'm not a complete idiot.
Sorry I was so vague with my list, just to update I am running Arias 75.5mm Dish Top pistons, Crower Stage 2 cam (63401t-2), and its a D16Y8 1.6L + bored (1.7L?) EX 2DR coupe. As for the piston-to-deck height I will have to check the paperwork when I get home.
I have owned this car since day-one, and although I am not a Honda Guru, I have done all installs + maintenance on this car myself--minus of course, the engine rebuild.
I was looking for feed-back from a community that I am glad to have found. Hopefully this info helps and someone can inform me what needs to be done or, like I posted, tell me where I went wrong.
Sorry I was so vague with my list, just to update I am running Arias 75.5mm Dish Top pistons, Crower Stage 2 cam (63401t-2), and its a D16Y8 1.6L + bored (1.7L?) EX 2DR coupe. As for the piston-to-deck height I will have to check the paperwork when I get home.
I have owned this car since day-one, and although I am not a Honda Guru, I have done all installs + maintenance on this car myself--minus of course, the engine rebuild.
I was looking for feed-back from a community that I am glad to have found. Hopefully this info helps and someone can inform me what needs to be done or, like I posted, tell me where I went wrong.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicslug »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How are you all getting these numbers, what am I doing wrong? I have had my jrsc installed for the past 50k miles, have had extensive engine work done and had it tuned on a mustang dyno, and I am only getting 140whp. Help me out, where did I go WRONG?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicslug »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">6psi. pulley- I am running stock ECU, injectors and JR FMU. Is this what is holding me up?- Arias 75.5mm Dish Top pistons</TD></TR></TABLE>
there you go. low boost, bad fuel management, and low compression.
bump it up to 8 or 10 psi, run hondata, uberdata, or crome with a bigger set of injectors and a regular FPR not an FMU, and bump that compression up to the mid 9s or 10s. you'll see 180whp+ for sure.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicslug »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">6psi. pulley- I am running stock ECU, injectors and JR FMU. Is this what is holding me up?- Arias 75.5mm Dish Top pistons</TD></TR></TABLE>
there you go. low boost, bad fuel management, and low compression.
bump it up to 8 or 10 psi, run hondata, uberdata, or crome with a bigger set of injectors and a regular FPR not an FMU, and bump that compression up to the mid 9s or 10s. you'll see 180whp+ for sure.
^^^^^^What STREETWERKZ said.^^^^^^^^^^
I'm guessing your static compression is too low for a JRSC. If you can get your piston dome displacement number from your piston spec sheet (usually a negative number for dished pistons), then I can tell you more, but I'm guessing that it's significantly lower than the -6.2cc stock pistons. Ordinarily I like low (8-9) static compression for a boosted motor, but only if you use a turbo. I tried a JRSC on a 8.4:1 motor and it really sucked, never made any power, even at 11 PSI. I ended up putting a turbo on it and made over 400 WHP. My new JRSC motor (RLZ is building it now) will have 11:1 static CR. On the bright side, your motor should last a long time
Also degree your cam; most aftermarket cams that I have seen have too much valve overlap for a JRSC. Valve overlap is great for NA cars as it makes more power up top, but it sucks for superchargers. If your Crower cam has significantly more valve overlap that a stock cam, then I'd worry about it.
*****Disclaimer****** I know next to nothing about SOHC cams, my experience has been with DOHC setups, so if I'm wrong about the overlap on a SOHC, then somebody who knows what they are talking about feel free to slap me.
I'm guessing your static compression is too low for a JRSC. If you can get your piston dome displacement number from your piston spec sheet (usually a negative number for dished pistons), then I can tell you more, but I'm guessing that it's significantly lower than the -6.2cc stock pistons. Ordinarily I like low (8-9) static compression for a boosted motor, but only if you use a turbo. I tried a JRSC on a 8.4:1 motor and it really sucked, never made any power, even at 11 PSI. I ended up putting a turbo on it and made over 400 WHP. My new JRSC motor (RLZ is building it now) will have 11:1 static CR. On the bright side, your motor should last a long time
Also degree your cam; most aftermarket cams that I have seen have too much valve overlap for a JRSC. Valve overlap is great for NA cars as it makes more power up top, but it sucks for superchargers. If your Crower cam has significantly more valve overlap that a stock cam, then I'd worry about it.
*****Disclaimer****** I know next to nothing about SOHC cams, my experience has been with DOHC setups, so if I'm wrong about the overlap on a SOHC, then somebody who knows what they are talking about feel free to slap me.



