Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dunn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hey JDMs1eeper,

Do you, or anyone else, mind explaining the two step for street tuning and how it works?

Is it a map set to run two stages? Will it work with a manual boost controller (same as shown above, which i bought a minute ago ). Is there a certain chip you have to buy instead of the eeprom or is it an external thing?

Sounds like it would be fun on the street.

I'm buying the dual rom eeprom chip so i can just flick a switch over to another map and run that. Any benifits for a turbo setup? Im not sure there would be running two maps. I can just turn the boost up or down as long as i have the max tuned out of it.

Thanks!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

2step isnt a tuning thing. 2step is a lower rev limiter set by a switch and setup to be on under a certain speed etc... this is for launching the car. you dont want to sit at the stage and bounce th ebitch off 7k rpm and then dump it because most likely your going to snap and axles and if you dont then your going to just smoke th ehell out of your tires and have some seriously shitty 60ft times.

Depending on how much HP/tq you have. what your power band looks like, what tires yoru running etc. all play a vital role in what rpm you want the 2step set at. rule of thumb on slick is to setup the 2step rigth aroudn peak torque of the engine. on street tires you want it much lower because you really arent going to get **** for traction.

Personally on street tires i just held the rpm at about 4k and then took off when the tree went down. spun the hell out of first and second anyway so the 2 step wasnt needed at all. i was able to pull a 12.50 at 124mph that was on about 12 psi of boost roughly 320-340hp

2step can be done with an MSD 2step box but can also be controlled through almost all engien managments that are out right now as far as like uberdata, neptune, hondata, chrome etc......

ITS_Dunn

Got ya now. Thanks for taking the time to go through it. Ive always been told to launch at around 4 grand, bounce off the limiter until your car stops pulling, shift second, hit the limiter 3 or 4 times and then go through the rest of the gears. Does the 2step really help that much?

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

2 step really on helps if you got slicks and boost, at least thats my opinion.

As for launching the car. hold it aroudn 4k bounce off the rev limiter maybe 8-10 times but shift to second before the car stops pulling. hit off the limiter maybe 3-4 times in 2nd and that should work better for your 1/4 times.

Hitting off the revs in 1st till the ar stops pulling will slow you down. you always want to be pulling through the gear, never let the car slow down or stop accelerating

AlienKrOZ

What type of Air/Fuel Gauge or Meter is everyone using to tune?

JDMs1eeper

When racing it hurts your ET , ALOT hitting the revlimit at any point. Avoid it completely!

whatthehell1051

i don't use to step because its not to hard to hold rpms......i don't about everyone else but it not that hard to hold rpms...now 2 step boost control makes more sense

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

need a uego to tune

i run an aem uego gauge controller

Nors

What would you guys reccomend tuning with?

Is there anything OBD2 compatible, or am I defintly going to have to do the conversion? I wanted to use hondata, but I am no longer sure what I want to use.

Hows AFC?
Crome?


Thanks

importdude2000

street tuned the baby today
feels ok
i mean it feels awesome...but only at 4psi?
dam spring is spose to be 7.25 psi

so monday imma grab the 10psi spring
that should boost max 8psi

thx everyone for there help


edit
dam vac line was torn


Modified by importdude2000 at 11:39 PM 6/18/2006

JDMs1eeper

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whatthehell1051 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't use to step because its not to hard to hold rpms......i don't about everyone else but it not that hard to hold rpms...now 2 step boost control makes more sense</TD></TR></TABLE>

its a huge differnce. Holding a steady RPM when lauching on slicks can bogg the motor down and hurts the 60ft time and a 2 step is VERY important w/ larger turbo users.

Holding steady at 5500rpms on 25 inch slicks w/ a T70 averaged a 1.85-1.99 60ft.

Holding off of the 2step dropped 60ft's down to a 1.68 - 1.71 60ft. on average.

InfamousDC2FI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AlienKrOZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What type of Air/Fuel Gauge or Meter is everyone using to tune?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im using the innovative lc-1/xd-1 combo along with chrome pro. Works great.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nors &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What would you guys reccomend tuning with?

Is there anything OBD2 compatible, or am I defintly going to have to do the conversion? I wanted to use hondata, but I am no longer sure what I want to use.

Hows AFC?
Crome?


Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes your going to have to convert to obd1. You cant go wrong with hondata, but if your looking to save a little money i would personally reccomend crome pro. If i had to do it over again I would of bought the ostrich (replacement for your usual eeprom burner) to use with crome

blaxican05

K this is what i have... Im just trying to see what i should look out for with this set-up.

Stock LS (integra)
-Skunk2 intake Manifold
-Log exhaust Manifold
-T3 Super sixty (.60 ar)
-tial 38mm wg w/9lb spring
-Fmic
-generic turbo xs BOV
-~ 2 1/4" charge piping
-2.5" DP with dumptube welded in ~18" down
-550CC injectors
-Running a Crome basemap for a boosted Ls w 550 injectors 7500 Redline
-EG radiator
-plan on getting it dyno tuned pretty soon after install... about a week out being the longest...

Any concerns? i know i want a fuel pump but do you see anything else lacking... I need a reliable (well as far as turbo and reliability go) daily driver....

Driving habbits:
I plan to track it maybe once a month and maybe push a little bit on the freeway now and then...

Suggestions?&gt;

Thanks in advance

no2unenolife

got a quick question,
I got tuned with my stock fuel pump,
is it going to effect my tune if i plan to upgrade to a 255 wal. pump later? thanks

ITS_Dunn

it could yes, what was it tuned at? it may be different if you were high enough because the stock fp is good until 200whp and after that it does make a slight difference. not sure if you would have to tune again.

integra4991

Stock ls from the oil pan to the throttel body (integra)
Peak boost kit
3" stainless exhuast
uberdata tuned by me
dsm 450's
255hp pump
methanal injection just instaled, when i get my turbo back (came with blow seal on exuast side ) im going to try and push her as far as i can haha

HickamHatch

My Setup:

-1996 LS motor with 65k on block
-1996 LS Head with Crower Dual Springs and Titanium Retainers and new valves
-ARP Head studs
-CC-Fab Mani
-Tial 38mm wastegate with 3psi spring and 3way solenoid to switch from manual boost controller to spring, going up to 300 hp, whatever PSI it takes on my setup...
-Greddy RS Bov
-Made own 2.5" chargepipes, 3" downpipe, and dumptube
-RC 550cc Saturated injectors
-Walbro fuel pump
-T3/T04e 57 trim .63 a/r
-STR Intake mani
-Autometer boost and oil pressure gauge
-Aluminum radiator
-Medium sized FMIC
-Motorolla 2.5 bar MAP
-Clutch specialties 6puck Sprung clutch
-Friend tuning on Crome Pro

WOOT- just got my license back and im finally able to run my car, all i gotta do is do my valve job and then im off to tune it.

Heres a couple pics
















Modified by 93civic96ls at 12:39 AM 6/19/2006


Modified by 93civic96ls at 12:47 AM 6/19/2006

JDMs1eeper

Sexy manifold!! where O where did you find that jewl!

AlienKrOZ

If I run a missing link do I still have to use the check valves that came with the Drag 3 turbo kit i got? What type of A/F or wideband gauge or meter is every1 tuning on?

JDMs1eeper

Missing link IS the check valve. Its the ONLY one you need.

Innovate & PLX & AEM make great widebands. I used Innovate

AlienKrOZ

my kit came with both check valve and missing link so i wouldnt need to install the check valves? would my autometer a/f gauge work for temp street tuning to ge the car to run right? how can i tell how many pounds my wastegate spring can handle? what do u think my setup should be making at 7 and 10psi?

B18B bone stock
Drag 3 kit with a T3/T4E .54
Walbro 255
RC550 Injectors
B&M Fuel Regulator

Would i need to upgrade for a high volume fuel rail? how's the AEM or any type of high volume fuel rail (aka ebay stuff).

importdude2000

hey guys how are you guys running 8psi?

.5 bar spring and MBC?

will it spike if i run 8psi from a 7.25 psi spring?
just making sure the facts

i like to run stright spring but next 8 psi one is 8.9!

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

The autometer a/f gauge doesnt tell yuo a/f ratios. just rich lean and stochiometric. I would not recomend tuning with this. As for fuel rail there is no need to reaplce the stock one. there good for more hp then you plan on making.

AlienKrOZ

how can i tell how many lbs my wastegate spring can handle? Is there any sites or write-ups about turbo tuning 101?

JDMs1eeper

WG's are a funny thing many people dont understand.

Larger WG's are used on:

-manifolds that flow VERY WELL, soo good that its hard for the exhaust gasses to change direction and exit the WG.

- when you want to run a low PSI range of 2psi-5psi. That is the hardest boost area for a WG to control.

- WHen you have a large turbine housing. A .48ar turbo will control boost a lot better then say a .84ar will. The exhaust gasses are going to go to the least amount of resistance and that sometimes is threw the turbo and out the exhaust.

If you have a 6psi spring on a .84 turbine, It can hold with a 35mm WG at 6psi with say a baffled muffler setup. But if you switch to a free flowing 3inch DP exhaust and no muffler It might only want to control at 7 pr 8psi. Boost is also easier to control on a Nonvtec head then a Vtec head. With 2.0 CRVtec vs a 2.0 LS/B20 you could have a 35mm WG w/ open 3inch exhaust system (complete, not open) and have one control find at 7-8psi and the CRVtec will control at 10-11psi due to how well it is flowing.


As far as high boost, a 35MM WG will control VERY well. Infact weither you have a CRVtec or a LS you can have it stick and hold solid at 26-30psi just fine. BUT you have to run a higher low PSI sometimes depending on how well stuff flows. INstead of running a low boost of 5psi you may need to run 11psi. Its hardest point to control tho would be in the lowest PSI ranges. Running larger DP's, LArger exhausts or no exhaust and larger turbine AR's make the WG harder to control at a low PSI

On high PSI setups you can run a 35 or 38mm WG if you feel youOn the PSI ranges of 4psi to 8psi I reccomend the following.


On a 35mm WG I would reccommend with turbine AR's of .48-.63
Up to a 3inch exhaust.

on a 38mm WG I would reccomend with turbines AR's of .68 - .84
Up to a a 3inch exhaust.

On a 40mm WG I would reccomend with turbines AR's of the same as the 38MM WG

On a 44mm WG I would reccomend with turbines AR's of .68 to .90
Up to a 4inch exhaust

On a 46mm WG I would reccomend with turbines AR's of .80 - 1.00
Up to a 4inch exhaust

On a 60mm WG I would reccommend with turbines AR's of 1.00+
w. 4inch or NO exhaust.

AlienKrOZ

thanks for the info. What do you think if i use the GTech Pro chassis dyno to tune my car to see if it's making power or not?